Hello.

I have just bought a 1985 Polo listed as not running. When I showed up to check on the car I noticed a puddle of fuel on the intake.

I have since then towed the car home and removed the carburettor which is stamped Solex 34 PIC(T)-6 on the side and Pierburg on the top.

I have ran the car on startingfluid straight in the intake so I know that the carburretor is the problem.

 

I'm now looking for a service kit for the carburettor. I have found one in Sweden (where I'm located) but it says that it is for PIC and PICT 1 through 3, and 5 ( https://www.misab.se/mobil/artikel.php?id=2851 ).

They also have one listed as being for 31 PICT-4 and 34 PICT-4 ( https://www.misab.se/mobil/artikel.php?id=2821 ).

 

I have found another kit listed as 34 PIC 5&6 from autodoc and associated sites from here https://www.meat-doria.com/en/product_meat/S41G

 

None of these explicitly states 34 PICT-6. So my question is If anyone knows which one I should buy and if I should buy any complementary parts as well.

I’d say the last one of those links for a Pierburg-Solex 34 PICT-6. I’m guessing your Polo is a 1.3L which I think had an engine code of HH.

 

Also https://classiccarbs.co.uk/product/solexpierburg-34-pic-567-carb-gasketservice-kit-vw-golf-etc

 

As for extras, get a new inline fuel filter and possibly some new petrol resistant hose. The hoses harden and split from age, plus heat from the engine. Carefully check the rubber flange that the carb sits on, they do split causing all sorts of issues with engine idle/running.Whilst it’s apart also check the carb float for cracking, there should be no sign of any fuel inside the float.

Edited 17 January, 20233 yr by mk2tastic

The last one I linked says PIC and not PICT but I'll try it anyways. Classic carbs wants around £80 with shipping and VAT while that one is 230 SEK or £18.

 

As for the engine code I don't know how to check physically on the car and the services that check from the vehicle registration number says both HH and GT.

The engine code should be a prefix to the Engine number, which is stamped on a small flat area of the cast iron engine block above the Alternator. In the UK it’s also on the V5 registration document. It’s certainly handy to know what it is for correct parts ordering.

 

This site lists the carb without the ‘T’ but it’ll be the same carb.

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1985-9/1/129-11000/

 

 I believe ‘T’ signifies ‘Thermostarter’ which is a reference to the choke.

P = Pump

I  = Downdraft 

C = Monobloc(single cast construction)

T = Thermostarter

 

 

One last thing to add after reading other posts on the Solex carbs, is that they can suffer from excessive wear in the throttle spindle, so maybe this is something to look out for if you are rebuilding your carb.

Edited 17 January, 20233 yr by mk2tastic

I got the car running after renovating the carb. I have been driving and fixing some other faults as I notice them. The only one left that I know of is that the radiator fan won't turn off after it turns on.

 

I flushed the cooling system and took it for a drive, when I got back I let it idle to see if the fan would turn on. It's been over 30 minutes and it's still running with the ignition off. I'll let it run to see if it kills the battery over the night.

I assume you mean the radiator fan, not the engine dieselling on with ignition off, which would be hotspots in the head. Thing is it doesn't circulate the coolant when rad fan runs with engine off.

 

Engine might be idling a little lean (15:1 AFR) which is hotter than stoich of injection cars or lean best idle 14.2:1 to 14.4:1 of carbs. Richen the idle a tad.

 

 

Edited 9 February, 20233 yr by dvderlm

I took the car for a drive and it got up to temp, when I got back home I let it sit and idle until the radiator fan turned on. I then turned the car off and left it for about an hour before I gave up and disconnected the battery because the fan never turned off.

An hour!

 

Maybe the fan temperature switch in side of radiator is sticky.

In 10°C ambient I'd expect it to soon cool below 88°C.

(turns on over 93°)

Multimeter to check if it's continuously zero ohms between 2 pins?

 

If it's 3 pins I'm not sure which are the low speed and high speed circuit pins.

That has to be the radiator thermoswitch at fault.

 

You can prove the switch is the issue by pulling it’s connector when the fan is running in error and the radiator is cool. If it stops you’ve found your problem.
 

The switch can be found half way down the right hand end of the radiator as you look into the engine bay.
 

Edited 9 February, 20233 yr by mk2tastic

I will try that tomorrow. I took the car to the inspection (MOT for you in the UK) and it almost passed. Failed on illegally tinted front and rear indicators and battery not sufficiently secured.

 

I have removed the spray tint with a solvent already but I have not fixed the battery.

The original bracket is still there but the nut is bottomed out and the battery can still slide. I'll try to shim the battery with a wooden board or something underneath so that the bracket holds the battery down before the nut bottoms out.

I've been looking at a Vauxhall Zafira whose battery clamp is the wires to the terminals!

18 hours ago, AmJohn said:

I will try that tomorrow. I took the car to the inspection (MOT for you in the UK) and it almost passed. Failed on illegally tinted front and rear indicators and battery not sufficiently secured.

 

I have removed the spray tint with a solvent already but I have not fixed the battery.

The original bracket is still there but the nut is bottomed out and the battery can still slide. I'll try to shim the battery with a wooden board or something underneath so that the bracket holds the battery down before the nut bottoms out.

Try packing between the under side edge of the bracket that goes against the battery.  For some reason the last new battery I fitted back in December had the same problem, but the old battery had an extra piece of plastic on it that allowed the bracket to tighten down. I had to remove the extra piece from the old battery( it was clipped on) and stick it to the new one using some silicone sealant. The bracket could then push down on it and secure the battery before the nut bottomed out.

 

 You may be able to fit something under the battery, but if you raise it too far it won’t be held in the rear mounting, which is pressed into the bodywork and has a slight lip on it so the battery can be secured.

Edited 10 February, 20233 yr by mk2tastic