Just thinking :-) . Instead of buying the coilover conversion kit, could used cheap 6n coilovers be used. Can the threaded tube be removed and are the shocks removable like the mk2F shocks.

No. your idea is illogical. you are getting the parts which are interchangable mixed up.

Anyone fancy making me a set for the front!??

Sam

Mk1 golf are an insert damper like the polo strut/hub whatever.

I wouldn't recommend welding to a damper tube full of delicate seals gas and oil lol

I won't go into great detail about how i made mine, if you can't completely work it out on your own you probably shouldn't be attempting it!

I cut the original strut tube out of the 'hub' and cut the mount off a pair of mk2/3 golf coilovers i had lying around.

Opened up the hub until the coilover would fit and tacked it, then cut off the steering arm and opened that up, lined up the angles and tacked it.

This shows the coilover tacked and how much lower the steering arm is!

Good way of doing it :)

its how FK and Gaz and the ebay ones do it. you just dont get camber adjustment still.

And you're a bit limited on spring length too.

True, though KW use 150mm/5" springs, whereas Gaz insist on using 7" which is a bit too long if you're using helpers.

if you actually read spring specs and loadings for typical usage an length for the weight of a polo, on a 6" spring you should be over 300lb ideally if my memory serves me right.

Then again the springs gaz sent me had about 5mm of travel before being completely coil bound, even basic maths would dictate them being wrong but they send them anyway lol.

"factor of safety" if you like.

Id need 5" springs to go lower now, unless I removed my helpers (although the helper and spacer ring are about 10mm in total if that) but I would need to go firmer really

"factor of safety" if you like.

Id need 5" springs to go lower now, unless I removed my helpers (although the helper and spacer ring are about 10mm in total if that) but I would need to go firmer really

why do you even have a helper in there?

For mots and lift off .. there's a reason the spring needs to be sprung lol

Dont want to go over the cress of a hill and just crash back onto springs lol

To be honest, the stiffness of springs people run, they need more than a helper, ideally need a much stiffer tender spring, as they're that stiff they're not compressed too much, so when you turn and the car goes into roll, and the inside wheels are unloaded the springs uncompressed quickly. By using a stiffer tender spring it essentially makes a progressive spring or a "dual rate" setup.

I have used helpers purely for MOT purposes though as the only time my main springs are unloaded is pretty much in full rebound if you essentially are near air born.

I have specced my springs for the ride height I want, and a compromise between a handling balance and comfort, not just mega stiff for lows without fouling etc. I have done the maths and got a setup I want. Still have some adjustment to enable me to set corner weights etc.

Can also use helpers/tenders in dual rate so it's not quite fully compressed - then you have soft spring travel for primary ride, but if you get the rate/gap right for the transition to the main spring of a stiffer rate you still get the higher roll stiffness etc etc so can kind of have some comfort and handling too.

It's a lot more complex than all that, but I'm not just taking helpers out to slam it because I actually appreciate the working and the effort that goes into suspension - its still a massive compromise over standard cars, and kits which have had some development, but at least I have made some effort and put some thought into it instead of just taking components out which are evidently fitted for a reason.

Am I allowed helpers then or?

thing is the 'helper' springs you get on most coilovers packages are there for TUV approval and that's it. they're so soft that even in the even of lift off they aren't going to do anything on the way back down anyway and they do nothing but cause pretension on the main spring and make it drive like isht.

Admittedly pretension can be a good thing but like you say, only really in the even of lift off, and like i say the standard helpers are useless in that situation anyway!

that's the way i see it anywho, i just know that you know your stuff so wondered why you would have the standard junk in there, but i guess you've got a custom rate and length one for your needs?

also, they 100% aren't needed for the MOT! MOT will fail on the spring failing to relocate, not the spring dislocating at all

also, i like the idea of the dual spring rate, i've thought about it before but you'd have to have both rates absolutely spot on surely?

also, they 100% aren't needed for the MOT! MOT will fail on the spring failing to relocate, not the spring dislocating at all

THIS!!!

but no matter how many times you say it, you still get OMG YOUR SPRINGS ARE LOOSE ITL FAIL MOT

cable ties..

For good measure.

Rate good lol

if you actually read spring specs and loadings for typical usage an length for the weight of a polo, on a 6" spring you should be over 300lb ideally if my memory serves me right.

Then again the springs gaz sent me had about 5mm of travel before being completely coil bound, even basic maths would dictate them being wrong but they send them anyway lol.

I've got 325lb 7" on the front of mine, but wanted shorter springs given that I'm also running helpers - sadly Gaz couldn't/wouldn't do owt shorter.

I don't want to slam the car, and it's just as well - I've got the coilovers down all the way to get to the same ride height I had with -40mm springs. Can't really make it any higher either, as winding them up just pre-tensions the springs loads.

Comparing the Gaz stuff to the secondhand KW kit I also owned, it's clear that KW have actually done some on-vehicle development and some maths - whereas I get the impression that Gaz just bolt some bits together without too much thought.

I'll probably swap to a 5" or 6" main spring on the front to give me a bit of leeway with tweaking ride height.

Like I say - mine shouldn't come unlocated unless you go jumpin or something - but I'd rather the springs definitely locate rather than dragging themselves back down the body and adjuster ring when they do come unseated, it's a massive compromise - there simple isn't enough room for the rate of spring and ride height I want with the space available between the top mount and steering arm.

Ideally I'd want a much stiffer helper, like 100lb maybe, and a much shorter main spring, it still has a really high ride frequency for road use, so it's never reall going to be comfortable either, and on track id imagine it will be quite soggy.

Yeah Andy Gaz just supply a generic damper setting too - there's even rules of thumb regarding standard spring rates and damping, then take your increased rate or new rate and you can work out a base damper setting from that - but they don't even go that far lol.

Springs are an easy thing to sort - you know that, eibach are one of the best but come with the price tag - things like Faulkner are about £20 each, but quality isn't as good.

You'll find eibach are nearer the specced rate. More consistent with heights and stuff. And actually keep that rate for a lot longer. Ideally id buy the cheaper ones and work out what I want then once decided buy some good quality ones.

The funny thing is, turning the standard struts into coilovers you don't even need to use straight springs, if you modded the standard spring seat you could use some lowering springs and lower them - with the progressive coils they'd take up the movement in the spring seat no prob I think.

Springs and dampers aren't the only element that make a car good on a track, or comfortable on the road, you might have a 300lb spring, but if you measure the actual wheel rate you'll have variance due to motion ratios, and the influence of bushes, roll bars and that.

Dropped the front of my car less than 5mm at the front the other day and gained loads of traction, that little amount. That's why I'm not particularly bothered when people quote their cars spinning in third and fourth, or avoiding being pulled into ditches.

Think I'm gonna do this shortly, what inserts have people used?

Looking to do it on the cheap but don't want to have a TA technix style ride :p

Bit of an old post and i know that i should really start a new thread but how did you guys manage to keep the angle the same on the steering arm once it was moved, or was it a case of eyeballing it then adjusting to suit when the tracking was done?

Hi is anyone tried "Lowtec" coilover on his 86/86c ??

 

https://www.lowtec.de/de/volkswagen/poloderby/86c/?p=1

Edited 4 August, 20169 yr by Keutain

On 7/5/2012 at 09:28, MaxGT said:

Adustable seats

 

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info....15m40udcsfv0eh7

Springs

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/index.php?cPa...15m40udcsfv0eh7

Just keep scrolling through till you find the correct springs, I'd go for 7" 220lbs personally.

They also now do rear conversion kits, which would be ideal for converting a nice set of dampers, far better than buying a set of mk1/6n TA coilovers!

This helped me alot!! thank You 

I finally go for GAZ coilovers! Just received it, now I've to finish the new engine fitting and install the new suspension set!!