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Holey bolt and washer arrived... there were road closures stopping the postie yesterday.

Might try that as the 7062 bolt has not arrived yet and the trains are sadly abysmal. Waste engine oil must need good pre-filtration. Rudolf Diesel used peanut oil in 1900 Paris exhibition. Lots of sunflowers and rapeseed grown near me.

Hi! I recently purchased a 6n2 open air with factory roof bars. I’ve not been able to find any info on these even with searching by part number. They’re built slightly higher to allow the roof to open and close when they’re on. My car is a dutch import so I can only assume they weren’t available on the UK market. Really interested to see if anyone knows anything about these? The part number is 6N0 071 126 023 if anyone can help me track them down. Thinking about selling them but it’s so hard to price such a niche item!

yeah, the only way to do that is spin a nut all the way on to the bolt, file a flat in one side of the bolt, drill it with a pillar drill and spin the nut off, hoping it does enough to the thread that you can run a die back the other way. Or buy the right bolt 😁 Also, vegetable oil sounds a bit posh, it's been on 50% used engine oil all last week.

And the choke cable... turns out the bolt and 2 odd sized washers I've used for years is wrong. (one can usually start from cold with accelerator pedal pumps between cranking tries... but that takes several to many attempts, not good idea with drained battery and price of petrol. Hm, I suppose I could spray EasyStart down the 4 joined vacuum ports straight into the inlet runners.) There should be a hole across the bolt that you put the choke cable through. Then you tighten down into a threaded hex piece clamping it all securely, no tendency to pull tangentially and loosen. Don't think I can accurately drill across an M4 bolt by hand. So, Dellorto part 7062 on the way from Eurocarb.

Pre Pumpedüse will run on veg oil which is cheaper than diesel even new in a bottle, none of that filtering chip scraps and moisture removal required apparently. The clutch cable has frayed near the pedal. Driven it for 4 days like that.. not risking another gear change until I can fit a new cable (ordered). The company i ordered from were even good enough to check whether I really wanted a shorter left hand drive cable.

Wiring is too simple.. original radio had an on/off switch and buttons.I bridged standby and main power which was probably a mistake. Now trying unplugging the anti theft front panel. It has a GK engine.

Good to hear you've got it going again. I'm in a modern daily, and my old VW fix is a Seat Cordoba Vario TDI (mk4 polo estate basically) - Total shed. I'm just changing the broken pedal box that'sleft the clutch pedal about an inch from the floor since I got it, 2000 miles ago. But it does 60mpg and runs on anything that looks a bit like diesel.

Sweet besides the hickups along your way ha sounds fun non the less. I just unplugged the ignition on my radio and it doesn't drain battery, just have to turn on manually. Twin carb sounds cool, what engine did you partner this with?

I have come to a conclusion that the issue is electrical, no spark to HT lead but power is everywhere else with new coil pack also. I suspect I should change the distributor as it is likely a faulty hall effect sensor but I cant find the correct distributor part for my polo. Using the built in reg system on auto doc brings up some for £180+ and one on heritage parts centre (£80) I'm not sure it's for my engine. :-/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/030905237ax-distributor-for-1-0-1-6.html

Put my polo SP back on the road. It's now historic vehicle. No road tax. No MOT tests. Fitted a radio again that drained the battery and had front panel would not leave demo mode. Offside screen washer jet worked then blocked. I replaced a broken front spring, while changing the front shock absorbers because the pot holed roads are terrible nowadays. First the choke cable detached from the enrichment mechanism, requiring a strategic screwdriver for cold starting. Filled up at Tesco. Had an 8p a litre voucher but idiot me tapped my payment card before cashier had taken the money off the whopping price of Momentum 99 since I last used the car. And last but not least the clutch cable (new in 2018 but done way under 10,000 miles) made a "gallang" noise and the clutch pedal dropped 4 inches. Tightened up at the gearbox release lever in the dark, until could select reverse again with pedal nearly at the floor. But wow it sounds glorious on the twin carbs. Dunno why I fit the radio really. How's everyone else doing?

Below you will find details about the VW Polo 1.4SE. Its current owner has had the car since 1998 and over that time it has done very little mileage as can be seen from the MOT history, mostly it was only about 1,000 mile per year. The current owner is now in her 90’s and hasn’t driven the car for the last three years. The current owner had a slight accident with the garage wall the last time she drove it, hence the damage reported below and in the photos. Make: VW Model: Polo 1.4SE Year/Reg: 1996 N226AKJ Mileage: 58,337 MOT: Not since 2023 Tax: Not since 2023 Good points: Low mileage, current owner bought the car in 1998 Bad points: Passenger side paint issue on wing mirror and on both the front and rear wheel arches (see photos) Location: Pinner, NW London Pictures: attached Price: £500 Contact details: Paul on 07419820213 (text me & I’ll call back) or paul@fluiddesigner.co.uk

I wonder if the base mount of the carb has developed a fine vacuum leak. It should be firm against the rubber, but insulated against vibrations. The rubber hardens over time. Can you wobble the carb left right or back and forth? Will the engine fire with some Easy Start spray (diethyl ether) or a small amount of fuel dribbled down the carb throat?

Sorry long delay, forgot to update. It was the breather pipe to round air filter, I must have forgotten to connect back when repairing filter lid.

Thanks for the response, and no it is intermittent in all sorts of conditions so I believe it isn't due to engine temp as far as I'm aware, usually works until after 8hr work shift. Usually after a drive or two it might manage but afterwards it wont work when I come to try again after a few days. I've had the garage take a look and helped me assumably fully disconnect the rest of the immobilizer as it was faulty in the past anyways, assuming that has now been fully removed from the equation it is just air or fuel starvation. In this case I do have an electric choke I was also curious how it might mix in with this problem. As I already said, it wont start even after days but randomly it will and it seems fine when it gets going, usually drives somewhat well besides idling too long and sometimes when setting off depending on how long I let it warm up, I tend to give it between 2-4 mins. Most recently it started and died after idling for a few mins and hasn't started for two days, I've tried both pumping gas pedal and pull pedal down tricks and doesn't seem to work, my next try would be to check if it smells of fuel or not in carb and check flap. I appreciate the help.

When cold the flap should be closed, then when engine fires vacuum from the descending pistons acts on the pulldown unit to crack the flap open a fraction to let air in. The gap needs to be just right. As engine warms choke flap should move to fully vertical. Might just need lubrication. As engine cools the flap will close again, over several hours... typically over night.

Do you mean it can manage a cold start, but not a warm engine start? It has an autochoke if you don't need to pull a lever on the dashboard towards you, then gradually push it in as the engine warms. Autochokes on the Weber TLA and the Pierburg 1b3 carbs used on 1l are a combination of electric bimetallic strip and coolant expansion. If the flap is angled not fully opened it could be too rich at warm start. Fuel consumption would be bad too. Spark plug tips would be coked.

Hey I'm really trying to learn mechanics and older cars like my polo, my polo was my first project car as well as the same car I learned to drive in. My polo now has an intermittent start and has recently had a new distributor cap + rotor arm, unless this has some relation to the distributor but I believe it was just a coincidence, I drive it and would fail to start after half a day and after a few days it starts fine and repeat. I'm not sure if my polo has an electric choke and if it could even be because of that? It all seems odd and doesnt directly link to one thing with my limited knowledge and experience. To simplify & expect my issue: Intermittent start (works fine once, then wont work after half a day or so of rest and will work after a few days) Does my polo mk2f 1991 - 1L with carb likely have an electric choke and if so where would it be? Rarely it will start fine but dies after few mins of idle (3-5 mins) and wont turn back on again and repeats like previously Not 100% but distributor seems fine after replacement parts and I've also tested a spark from HT lead I can hear the fuel pump whirl when turned to ignition I only suspect something with the carb as I have not touched it and have yet to service it/take it apart Any help and advance would be greatly appreciated and I wish you well on your own polo journeys. 👍

giveacar are brilliant. well done

Thanks, Yeti. Once bodywork gets bad then it doesn't make economic sense to put it back on the road. If I had a barn to hide it in for now, but I don't. So I've decided I'm going to try and do some good with it instead: https://www.giveacar.co.uk/ Truthfully it's just a car, but it was good work horse... Martin

The coil packs are normally pretty reliable there are resistance checks you can do if you search on here I know I’ve posted the checks a few times but unfortunately my laptop with the information is currently not working The other thing you could check is the sensor grounds mostly Brown/Yellow wires that go to a bolt on the cylinder head

The running and then cutting out sounds like the G28 crankshaft sensor if the camshaft sensor fails the ECU uses the crankshaft sensor as a backup but if that fails or gives erroneous data then the ECU will shut the engine down the only other sensor that would cause a shutdown is the knock sensor You can see the sensor outputs on VCDS in the measuring blocks and also in the Vscope display

VCDS live data of the MAP pressure will tell you that. During warm-up the ECU will be richening and advancing spark timing. There's usually a reference atmosphere barometric sensor in the ECU that should also be checked with just ignition on, then at idle. Could that be dirty/blocked? That's a guess. I'm a carbs guy.

Hello, That´s the only sensor that o saw connected to the manifold.The picture is just an example. All of this is just very strange, this weekend i will try to make a video showing what happens. Can it be a dodgy connection/wire?But then it whould be intermittent, right? Thank you guys by trying to help.