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Anyone else think this reads very spammy as a first post? Just lacks a link to the wonder product to be completely obvious.

The coil packs are normally pretty reliable there are resistance checks you can do if you search on here I know I’ve posted the checks a few times but unfortunately my laptop with the information is currently not working The other thing you could check is the sensor grounds mostly Brown/Yellow wires that go to a bolt on the cylinder head

The running and then cutting out sounds like the G28 crankshaft sensor if the camshaft sensor fails the ECU uses the crankshaft sensor as a backup but if that fails or gives erroneous data then the ECU will shut the engine down the only other sensor that would cause a shutdown is the knock sensor You can see the sensor outputs on VCDS in the measuring blocks and also in the Vscope display

Definitely, yes, but I'm not a mod any more, so I'll just leave it at explaining a better option than the product in the spam.

It's an ECU bracket, on a car that doesn't have an ECU. VW were planning ahead.

UPDATE: I spent an evening sanding the crankshaft and conrod journals, getting them to a state where they weren't smooth to the touch but they were operationally smooth. Plastigauge read that they were still within clearance spec, and an old-timer on a youtube video said not to worry too much about indents running around the bearings, as oil would simply fill those little gaps (not ideal, but not a show-stopper). So I reassembled everything, and the car has been running smoothly for a week now. This weekend, I'm going to drop the sump and verify the state of the oil, conrod/crankshaft play, and the status of the bearings. Looks like what VAG said was impossible, not giving any information in the service manual for bearing replacement saying that as soon as you even undo the crankshaft bolts the engine block has to be replaced, is in fact doable—at least in the short term, as I now need to monitor for longevity—but so far so good!

Hi to everyone and sorry for my English. I did buy the same exact car i had 40 years ago and i am here for a lot of things i wasnt allowed to do in my 20s :)

There will be an ignition on supply on the heater blower switch that might be easier to use rather than that lead from the fusebox and yes I would still protect it with an inline fuse

I do! Life got in the way of updating this thread lol.... I'll have to get this thread up to date someday soon when the Polo goes back on the road! Here's a pic of what the front end looked like before it went off the road last summer.

Wiring is too simple.. original radio had an on/off switch and buttons.I bridged standby and main power which was probably a mistake. Now trying unplugging the anti theft front panel. It has a GK engine.

Sweet besides the hickups along your way ha sounds fun non the less. I just unplugged the ignition on my radio and it doesn't drain battery, just have to turn on manually. Twin carb sounds cool, what engine did you partner this with?

I have come to a conclusion that the issue is electrical, no spark to HT lead but power is everywhere else with new coil pack also. I suspect I should change the distributor as it is likely a faulty hall effect sensor but I cant find the correct distributor part for my polo. Using the built in reg system on auto doc brings up some for £180+ and one on heritage parts centre (£80) I'm not sure it's for my engine. :-/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/030905237ax-distributor-for-1-0-1-6.html

Sorry long delay, forgot to update. It was the breather pipe to round air filter, I must have forgotten to connect back when repairing filter lid.

VCDS live data of the MAP pressure will tell you that. During warm-up the ECU will be richening and advancing spark timing. There's usually a reference atmosphere barometric sensor in the ECU that should also be checked with just ignition on, then at idle. Could that be dirty/blocked? That's a guess. I'm a carbs guy.

Thanks. So the section in the scuttle clips onto the bit that's in the car behind the dash with those springy U-clips?

I like it mid-way between floor and end of travel. 6mm of free play at the lever end says the always reliable caretakerplus https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/287595-clutch-biting-point-help/#findComment-2359045

So, the carb base was definitely a problem. The car started and I managed to make a lap of the block. Sufficiently confident, I tried it again. The engine died completely after a few hundred yards. I made it back by squirting carb cleaner directly into the carb in runs of about 50 yards. I gather, there is no fuel going in at all. I added 5 litres to make sure the tank wasn't empty. I have already replaced the fuel pump and will check the vapour separator. A new one is arriving today. I had replaced it but broke one spout during one of the carb disassemblies. The old one was fine, the floats inside were free. When rebuilding the carb I did not replace the float and needle but it seemed to move freely and the engine used to run fine before the car was parked for ten years. I did not test the accelerator pump throughput. This may be a test of fuel making it to the carb reservoir. I did replace the gaskets, plunger, and cleaned quite a lot of ... that had accumulated over 40 years. The saga continues.

It sure the light unit may have an earth wire but check your getting power first if you do r have a multimeter use a bulb and two bits of wire - good luck it can be a pain in the proverbial thing to Suss it out

Crazy 20 years!!! I still have Bluey just hasn't moved from the comfort of the garage for 3 years. I very much miss the polo show and seeing all my polo friends, although I don't especially miss the BBQ in this heat 🥵

Hi folks, thought I’d sign up and introduce myself. Have been using this forum since buying me bready from bangers n cash in Feb 26 (900 hammer price) and want to thank you all for your knowledge and experience which have been invaluable in bringing it back from the dead. 1990 metallic silver grey, 1043 HZ, pierburg1B3, 72k miles. Arrived with exhaust blowing and held on by bungee, would turn over but not run, plugs black as coal and at least a litre of petrol in sump, petrol tank leaking at neck, grinding gears and jelly brakes. Filthy inside out and underneath. Ordered new tank and flushed and replaced all fluids belt filters plugs dizzy cap and leads, still couldn’t get it to fire. Due to petrol in sump assumed was fuel pump issue. Replaced that, found no fuel gettin from pump to carb. Noticed that line from pump to swirl pot had colllapsed so replaced that. Still not firing, found outlet from swirl pot to carb was connected to tank return line. Fixed that, got fuel in and fired up. Running richer than Elon Musk, whatever I did with idle and mixture appeared to have no effect. Found litre of petrol in sump again. Took carb apart and found tiny piece of fibre glass filler (which prev owner had used in tank) preventing needle from closing. Removed that, much swearing, new oil and filter, and got it running at last, adjusted carb. New fuel pump stopped working put old one back on. Put new tank in, can only just get fuel pump gun in as neck sits quite high up in flap. Bled back brakes front bleeders not shifting (work in progress) Fuel gauge not working, removed sender, took apart, cleaned up and found thin copper strip had snapped on it, bent into shape so stays together by tension and now works perfect. Found exhaust found didn’t fit properly, was about 1 ft out of alignment between central and rear mounts, so had to bend the long part by 1ft by bracing against soles of my feet like I was rowing a boat. Patched up and mounted exhaust and it passed MOT 2 week ago, emissions v low, various advisories. Luckily body fairly solid and not in bad nick, electrics ok. did some filling and painting, more painting to do. Cleaned it polished and put new plates on. Drove it round Peak District last weekend, even more fun than I remember it being when had one as a kid, especially when trying to stop. It’s been like a 4D puzzle, thoroughly enjoyed doing it up, thanks for all your help Prev owned a 68 beetle, I’ve also currently got a 2018 Golf, 1980 T25 and 1996 T4 and clearly some sort of mental illness. Polo piccies.pdf

Hi bled at junction of hose and caliper as suggested and brakes now much firmer, will do nicely til I get to replace caliper and hoses

Thanks for the thread! the brake nipples sadly already rounded when I got it so gonna keep tapping and gassing and using mole grips and possibly fire for a week or two, if no success may try your suggestion of bleeding at the hose

As EV's go, I do rather like what I've seen of the ID.Polo. My only real gripe about it is the same as the current Polo, is that it's the same size as a Golf.

Update: I've changed the fuel pump I've changed the sedimentation filter I've rebuilt the carb: a very useful link for pierburg 2e3 at https://vwt25.blog/2016/09/15/pierburg-2e3-rebuild-and-adjustments/ After rebuild, the engine started well and died. The carb sucked all the fuel from the sedimentation filter and the engine won't start, unsurprisingly. The plan: Will unplug the fuel inlet before the pump and dip in a bottle of fuel, start the car. If this works, will start chasing the lines to the tank.

oh fair enough. Still not bad for 35 years old.

was composing that while you replied. Yes, walk away.

Shame the distributor hall sender socket is damaged. I may be mistaken but the block oil breather pod and cam cover breather look like they are full of mayonnaise, which would indicate a head gasket failure that caused oil and water to mix, OR, that the car was only used for short journeys. Might be fine. Might be damaged from overheating.

I replaced the indicator stalk arm and it’s possible that may have blown the fuse - just gonna keep and eye on it and ensure all is OK thank you for your comment

Thank you after much fettling last night all is now working as it should replaced a fuse (I could swear it was fine when I first check it ) but started a trace process and found the blown fuse! Thank you for taking the time to reply

Well done. Is it a headlamp switch glow lamp to find the switch in the darkness with engine running? Or maybe the loom designed for Audi 50 with headlight on confirmation lamp in dash?

Bang! It was the metal gear. The hole was too wide, exactly as stated in the video I did the procedure and now it works. While I was there, I swapped a pair of led, the factory lamps was stuck I am wondering why the factory headlight switch has lamp but they add a lamp on the frame I also installed a 4 light grill, the factory foglight switch and made a custom install, the 12v come directly from the battery. I plan to have also the headlight draining directly, it increases the Volts and make a brighter light

I changed my car's whole speedo module when I moved from Germany to have miles and km for re-register in UK. (original showed optimistic 200 kmh topspeed... I did not know it was a rare item back then. oops https://www.volkswagen-classic-parts.com/catalog/en_global/part/867957031A) So a second hand one might work for you, if you can find one, and if you don't care about the change in odometer reading. Nobody cares if it increases it seems, maybe insurance company if you have agreed a per year limit. I think I added 7000 miles in one afternoon.

So, As the title suggests, I've set a target and I'm going tonshoot for it. Picked up the Bready in Dec 23. It had an ABD fitted but was running on the 1.0 spi system. Took it to the dyno to see how it was running and surprisingly it was OK. Lambda sensor doing its job and sorting the fuelling. Result of running the 1.0 SPI was great low down torque but out of puff up top. Played with the timing a little and settled on a better ifke abd 61bhp rather than another couple of bhp and a worse idle. Found out the cat was empty which probably helped a bit with the power/torque. Now fitted the correct 1.3 SPI, port matched the inleta little better, a 4-2-1 manifold and have some b2b testing to do on the manifold heater (hedgehog) removal. Aside from this I acquired myself a piper bp300 cam, a spare ABD engine and have begun the strip down to see what's possible. No aftermarket internals available so looking at different options. Most likely current plan is to skim the pistons and deck the block by an equal amount to get the 9.5:1 CR up closer to 11:1. I'll also do some head work and look in to the possibility of larger valves (again nothing off the shelf). I'll add a set of itbs and standalone ecu and hopefully get somewhere near my target. The whole thing would be a lot simpler with the 1.3!!! Some pics below.

Thanks for the further advice dvderlm. Yes, mental and physical health really not good otherwise car would probably still be on the road. So I'm past breaking it myself to be honest. Steel wheels so no value. Hi, mr brightside. I'm in Nottingham. Tyres are 175/65 R13 80T. I've tried to move the car back and forth once a month and keep the tyres well inflated but as it's not been driven on road I have no real guarantees against flat spotting. They look like new, at a glance (need to inspect closer) and have less the 25 miles I guess as was done pre MOT where it overheated on the hottest day of 2024. There are no front fog lights on the car.

So having replaced both the cam and the tappets on an intact block, first at tdc use a whizy gun to loosen the cam nut, this way you don't have to take the black plastic off, then slide the cam belt off after you've loosened the water pump and spun it to release the tension, next cam bolt out, then knock off the pulley, undo the caps and cam out, at tdc with the engine not moving the valves wouldn't go far even if they touch a cylinder, next pull the tappets out and slide the new ones in, to fill with oil literally bath of oil and compress the tappets with your fingers, then fit cam, ensuring its at tdc and fit the caps, then the pulley, cambelt on and tighten, then spin engine by hand to ensure clearances listening for strange noises, and ensuring no tight spots, refit rocker cover and turn over with king lead off to ensure nothing untoward, provided everything checks out start it and ensure its sounding healthy before going for a jaunt, if you're still uneasy take the head off.

https://www.type86c.nl/versnellingsbakken.html

Thanks for the info @Pete1. I went back to basics and bled the cooling system first, and found that the input heater hose got hot and the output stayed cool. I figured it was the heater core, so I took the hoses off and flushed it out with water, reattached the hoses and now I have heat, enough at least for those mornings hovering around 0. Am pretty sure I need to drain the whole system and refill it though, there was a LOT of gunk in there.

Thanks @dvderlm . Oil distribution looks ok (prior to last starvation event of course) in camshaft housing. My plan is to refinish all journals on camshaft by hand (damage is manageable with sandpaper wrap and polish while in-engine), run seafoam through all oil passages using an external pump, blow air through all oil channels, clean out oil ports on camshaft and seats, replace bearings, replace oil pump, fill with oil & new filter, test oil pressure. if ok, run for several minutes, remove sump, check for any residual metal shavings, remove cylinder 1 conrod cap, check for any immediate wear, then if ok run for a week or so, then recheck. At this point, I can only assume the engine had oil starvation before we got it and I created this event myself by not replacing the bearings when I had it open previously to change oil pump.

The drivers seat in a Mk2F GT Coupe is height adjustable. The mechanism could probably be retrofitted to a 6n seat.

it's the same i once had, also the plate number are mixed but they are the same. But non exactly the same car. By the way, it has less km now than the one i had once ! :) :)

Hello! I have polo mk2 with weber 32/34 dmtl conversion And i am wondering what is good jet sizes Currently i have Swapped 57 idle on primary and its perfect idle now👌🏻 On my polo i have 4-2-1 exhaust manifold and custom exhaust, 268 shrick cam, Ram air air filter, and intake manifold is empty and good flow. Also swapped mk3 polo 5 speedgearbox But i am thinking about main jet and secondary sizes. Idle main 57 and Sec is webers orginal cant remember Main jet is 110 and sec 125 Main Air correct 155 and 185 Emulsiontube F22 and sec f30

Nice, very original.

I left as is but with inline fuse now. I made my own holder bracket etc. Thanks all for help.

I don't actually have a cigarette lighter. Interior light, Cig lighter & Radio are fuse 11 on mk2. So not sure now, sorry. I thought key needed to be at Acc position for radio but it remembers stations when key removed. So it must have both switched and standby feeds. And interior light does not need key. Will cig lighter work without key?

If the gauge measures 120 ohms (like the Smiths voltmeter in MG) it will draw about 0.12 amps max. Too much for standby, so yes switched live. Or fused, switched circuit like rear window, cigarette lighter. And even 30 swg thinwall cable would be thick enough (can carry 0.5amps).

Yes, further away from the body opens it further at stone cold, thus increasing the time it takes to close fully. RPM at this setting is >2000 when you fire it up, and most of the usual splutter goes away. Worth knowing, and thanks to Tim at Rottele Racing in DE for raising this to my attention.

thankyou so much, that is priceless info .

Well, the good old Haynes manual wasnt quite correct. There werent 4 bolts holding the hot air distributor in. After a chat with a mechanic at the local, formally VW franchise garage, he suggested taking out the pollen filter housing, as it was likely protruding down into the top of the fan housing. I took out the pollen filter housing and reached down into the top of the fan, gave it a push and it all came free. So there were only 3 bolts and the rest was being held in by the pollen filter case protruding into the top of fan housing. Also, the Haynes said that once the hot air distributor was out, you had to start splitting it in half to get the heater matrix out. Whilst looking at the top of the matrix, I noticed a clip in each side. I eased them back and lifted the old matrix out. Cleaned up the inside and hoovered out the old bits of foam, then just slid the new one into place, till the clips locked on. Now just the ball ache of refitting the dash and all the associated stuff.

This may do the trick.

Hi first time posting on club polo, I've exerted all my options but I've been on the hunt for Kamei-X1 side skirts. I know they're rare & highly sought after but if anyone has any they're willing to let go of or know where some could be sourced please get in touch. Thank you.