Bit new to all this! Can someone give me a little advice on how to achieve the looks below in terms of offsets and wheel sizes:

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...mp;#entry649296

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...st&p=265825

How much are you guys lowering? Are coilover required and do the arches need rolling?

Which cars did you mean in that link? theres loads

My 2 last mk4`s, both on 14x8 wheels, et15, with 195x45 tyres

Non had any arch work and both on coilies, about -90mm down i think. They rubbed on the rears a little with me + 1 and alot with 1 in the back

Sorry, those links should have jumped straight to the cars I liked in the thread. Funny actually, cos the first one I tried to link to (black) was actually yours! So thanks for the reply :)

I've been looking at:

14 x 8 alloys - not picked any yet, but probably deep dish.

1954514 types - Falken

Jackson Tuning - 60/40 or 80/60

This is pretty similar to your setup, although perhaps not quite as low?

What's the rubbing like? Is it all the time? Is it severe?

I'm really not too sure about ET. Does ET15 cause the rubbing?

Hope you can answer there as I'm a bit clueless so far!

Could you also tell me what the chances are getting pulled for these? Just read that it is a legal requirements that the tyre and wheel assemblies stay within the body of the car. Why do the powers at be always try and spoil our fun??

Why do the powers at be always try and spoil our fun??

For the general publics safety...

You need the tread to be within the arch, the sidewall/alloy can protrude a little. I don't think that's too much to ask?

Go with the 80/60 kit

This is when it was -50mm all round, its on fecking stilts

The rubbing with me + 1 was only over harsh bumps and taking corners at speeds, not severe rubbing, but rubbing all the same with one in the back it was quite bad

ET/offset works like this

The higher the offset/ET the more the wheel will sit in the arch, lower ET/offset will bring the wheel out

Example, mine were 8" wide with ET15, if they were ET20 they`d sit more in the arch, ET10 theyd be more out

AFAIK, its measured by taking the distance from the centre of the wheel, to the mounting face (where the wheel meats the hub)

Heres a bit of a paint sketch for you

Imagine youre looking at a wheel from infront/behind if its rolling

The red line is the centre of the wheel (4" on an 8" rim)

On the left, the ET/offset would be about 5, where as on the right it would be about 30 (if I've got the whole ET/offset thing right myself I'm sure i have)

@Walsh: Morning mate. Cheers for the brilliant reply, extremely helpful!! 50mm doesn't look anywhere near as good I have to agree.

Think 14x8, ET15, 80/80 will cause rubbing too or should I stick to 80/60 to be safe? 80/60 won't be stilt-like will it? lol Must be a sweet-spot somewhere :)

@Tav: I find it strange that the rest of Europe doesn't have a problem with them thats all?

Its hard to say, the kit could be really soft, so you will get some rubbing over bumps etc, or it could be really hard

According to this thread

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=71224

This is on a 80/60, with 185/55/14`s

mine are 14 x 9 front 14 x 10 rear but i have had major arch work and still have the police comment on them when i get pulled for my number plates :(

but since i hardly drive it i'm not bothered lol

14x8's would be fine any bigger and police may start to hasle you even though there ok

just depends what you want really

Its hard to say, the kit could be really soft, so you will get some rubbing over bumps etc, or it could be really hard

According to this thread

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=71224

This is on a 80/60, with 185/55/14`s

oi walshy!!! stop whoring scarlet out!!

and the above info is correct

nicnic if your worried about get the right stance then the answer is in COILOVERS

can get them for under 200notes off philj

Thanks guys. I'm pretty confident on what I need to buy now, so time to spend some cash Thanks for the help :)

Hey Taylor, I was intending on buying philj's 'Jackson Tuning kit', why are £120 quid or so? They drop to 80/80. Is this the product you meant or something else?

Edit: Just looked again and the £120 kit is for shocks and springs - the coilover is clearly different.

So what's the difference? I didn't think I really needed to go below what the shocks and springs can do?

Edited 23 March, 200818 yr by nicnic

Sorry Taylor

Nicnic, with coilover you can set them at the exact height you want, some you can even adjuster the damping to make them stifffffff

I`d always choos coilies over shock and spring kit now, just because i like going uber low :-D

what he said ^^^^^^

plus i did find i had to run 5mm spacers up front with the valver wheels, wheres as i dint with coilovers do to the strut not being as thick

Right. Well think I'll go collies then its only another £85 quid and sounds much more flexible.

Any idea what I should expect to pay for fitting them?

Fit them yourself easy :-D

Yeah... if you've got a 7mm allen key and appropriate sockets it's a piss easy job. Did a 6n with my mate a while ago.

I however wasted about 2-3 hours looking for tools, then taking a mission to a "local" hardware shop to get a 7mm allen key, but total work time can't have been more than a couple of hours. A garage would charge maybe £150-£200 for fitting? Not worth it IMO.

Edited 23 March, 200818 yr by tobyk

Sounds good. Do I not need any specialist equipment to compress the springs or anything?

Nah just pull the whole lot out assembled and use new top mounts if you can. Even taking the old ones off to use, there's bugger all tension in the spring, it's not gonna poke your eye out or anything.

You`ll need a long crank spanner to get the top nut off too, i didnt have a long enough one, so made this

Edited 23 March, 200818 yr by walshc

There is that option, or a spark plug socket with spanner over it.

Wicked :) I found a full tutorial on how to do it, and it doesn't look too bad - unless I come across any unexpected complications!

Thats me sorted then:

4 x Steffan RS - 8x14 ET15

195/45R14 Falken ZE512 77V

TA-Technix coilovers

Will drop it as low as I can until I get scrubbing, which sounds like anything over about 800mm.

Might also look at some more expensive coilovers, but there is probably little point.

This has all been very, very helpful. Thanks!

Edited 23 March, 200818 yr by nicnic

You`ll need a long crank spanner to get the top nut off too, i didnt have a long enough one, so made this

nice welding :-D

hahahaha - my best

Nah i only did it expecting it to last untill i changed my coilies, I've done about 8 sets now using that bad boy

Shitty weld FTW

lol wtf did you do to your leg??

thought you had made that spanner to get that contraption off!!