i want a vernier pully for my g40 whats the best one to buy i would like it to be polished type or red

got around £100 to spend put may spend more.

soooo many people say the german ones are poor

Speak to Pete or Henry @ PPP. I understand they are going to introduce them soon at under £90 posted!

This looks like one of the best made 'cut & shut' i've seen.

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...=102929&hl=

This looks like one of the best made 'cut & shut' i've seen.

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...=102929&hl=

Here's a couple we've had done:

We've taken our time with them and have thought about every step of the process, from a hard anodized finish, timing gauge, to the runout once built up- something I don't think many pulley manfacturers consider.

Ours also offer alot more adjustment than any of the german ones (and are cheaper!)

We're waiting for them to be re-faced and have the timing marks re-aligned then they're good to go!

^^Thats the best vernier pulley I've ever seen,let alone best short-block 8v VW one. I've considered making one myself but for a plain and untreated one in inevitably inferior quality,it'd take me longer to make than to earn the money that's gonna go for. Thats gotta be worth a day overtime.

one of the problems with cut and shut verniers is that the use bolts to attach the alloy disk to the centre of the pulley, but bolt threads always have play in them so you will get runout.

If you take a 6.0 mm thread, if you drill a hole for it to go through, the clearance size should be 6.1 mm, but the maximum thread diameter is 5.8mm, so if you used a normal sized bolt you can have 0.3mm runout (or eccentricity)

If they have been assembled to eliminate runout you're best to dowel them with some metal pins so that the pulley can be disassembled and then reassembled yet maintain their accuracy.

Edited 8 April, 200818 yr by optima21

Catcams. It's not a cut and shut and has true vernier adjustment. I should have a picture soon as I've got some coming.

one of the problems with cut and shut verniers is that the use bolts to attach the alloy disk to the centre of the pulley, but bolt threads always have play in them so you will get runout.

If you take a 6.0 mm thread, if you drill a hole for it to go through, the clearance size should be 6.1 mm, but the maximum thread diameter is 5.8mm, so if you used a normal sized bolt you can have 0.3mm runout (or eccentricity)

If they have been assembled to eliminate runout you're best to dowel them with some metal pins so that the pulley can be disassembled and then reassembled yet maintain their accuracy.

A valid point, I'd be interested to know how you would eliminate run-out with the outer wheel by doweling though.

Having said all that, out of the 10 pullies we've had done and tested, the maximum run-out was 0.10mm the deflection in the surface of the cambelt would eliminate this, so poses no problem. Infact when measured against a standard pullied the Verniers that had been faced where alot better, and deffinately more consistent.

I think you'll agree a run out of 0.10mm is somewhat insignificant- anyone whishing to have a finer timing accuracy shouldn't be using a cambelt anyway.

how much we looking at yoof they look quality

one of the problems with cut and shut verniers is that the use bolts to attach the alloy disk to the centre of the pulley, but bolt threads always have play in them so you will get runout.

If you take a 6.0 mm thread, if you drill a hole for it to go through, the clearance size should be 6.1 mm, but the maximum thread diameter is 5.8mm, so if you used a normal sized bolt you can have 0.3mm runout (or eccentricity)

If they have been assembled to eliminate runout you're best to dowel them with some metal pins so that the pulley can be disassembled and then reassembled yet maintain their accuracy.

A valid point, I'd be interested to know how you would eliminate run-out with the outer wheel by doweling though.

Having said all that, out of the 10 pullies we've had done and tested, the maximum run-out was 0.10mm the deflection in the surface of the cambelt would eliminate this, so poses no problem. Infact when measured against a standard pullied the Verniers that had been faced where alot better, and deffinately more consistent.

I think you'll agree a run out of 0.10mm is somewhat insignificant- anyone whishing to have a finer timing accuracy shouldn't be using a cambelt anyway.

the outer rim of the pulley doesnt need doweling, because if its shape the alloy disk just needs to be a tight sliding fit inside the outer rim, preforably with the same profile as the rim of the pulley. If you do this right the alloy disc is effectively the dowel.

On the couple of pulleys that I've done, becuase of the way I made them and the the fit of the parts meant that they had the same accuracy as the original pulley.

It depends how you manufacture things though, if they are assembled on a jig you should have repeatable accuracy, even if the 6 bolts that hold the centre of the pulley in place are 2mm smaller than the holes that they go through, you should easily be able to assemble them to within 0.05mm (if you wanted), but take those bolts out and then reassemble it by hand and you can have 1mm runout.

its like when assembling a head onto a mk2/mkw block, its possible to have the head 1mm out of alignment with the head gasket and the head to be 0.5mm out of alignment with the block as the bolts are a loose fit. VW thinks thats fine, other manufacturers are a bit more accurate with their alignment

Edited 8 April, 200818 yr by optima21

The stock pullies are all cut, machined etc within the confines of one machine on a single jig- an automated process so little room for any human error, which no matter how many times you measure when doing it manually, will occur sooner or later.

The centre of the stock pulley is designed to be an interferance fit with the alloy disk- the bolts are literally there to hold it in place.

Like I said- we've had no problems with runout at all, no matter which way the pullies are assembled.

The fact of the matter is once you've approached the levels of 1/10ths of a mm you're no longer in VW Polo Land of accuracy, Ideally I'd produce a forged pulley that used no OEM parts and was lighter than stock (albeit with minimal gains tbh) but not everyone wants to pay £200+ for a set. I'm quite happy to sell something which is of good quality and does the job in hand- with a good level of accuracy relative to its operating environment.

Hence the £89 selling price

not something i would need to use but they do look very well made and the tech speak sounds convincing enough for me to know i'd be getting a well made product. well done with these.

Pete, why didn't you just say thats how you got them made in the first place rather than me explaining the engineering principles and then you saying "ohh thats how we make them".

As both you and I know there are some poor quality ones about (you've supplied some German ones previously), I'm just pointing out what people should be looking for in the construction, rather than it just being shiny or a pretty colour.

Would be nice to see a picture of them being machined too, and being inspected for accuracy...... might also be good a marketing tool for you.

Edited 9 April, 200818 yr by optima21

Here's the Catcams product.