Hi all,

Took my MKIII Saloon for his MOT this morning and he failed on the rear brake binding. Not going to pay someone to fix it for me as I'm already going to have to fork out for retest fee, so what's the best way to do this? Should I bother fiddling about or just buy a new drum? Haynes manual recommends fitting a pair as opposed to just the one.

I've got 10 days to do the work in, but sooner the better really.

Any recommendations on where to get parts if needed? Had a quick look at GSF just now and they're about the same price as Halfrauds.

Thanks in advance! :-D

Fenris.

Edit: Apologies, posted in the wrong section! D'oh! Please move me!

Edited 24 April, 200818 yr by Fenris

Drums off

Assuming the shoes have a good amount of material left on them, clean it all up inside (can of brake cleaner is easiest).

Tap the adjuster wedges out

File any lip inside the brake drums off.

Put it all back together and test.

doubt its the drum...more like a partialy siezed cylinder , take it apart and have a look would be the best way forward

Thanks for the extremely prompt replies! Will get out there tomorrow providing it stops raining for long enough.

Hi again,

Hopefully Steveo (or anyone else who know what to do) you might be able to help me further? Yes, it does look like a partially seized cylinder. I've (finally) managed to removed the drum and I can see the piston on the left (as you look at it, nearside rear) is jutting out slightly, pushing the brake calliper out, thus binding. Reading the Haynes guide it looks like I need to remove the cylinder and take it apart, but I then need to bleed the brakes. Is there any way of fixing this without having to bleed? I've only ever done it on my bike and that was hard enough!

And now it's chucking it down with rain again! Isn't Britain a great place to live for the wonderful weather we get?

hi mate,

the cylinder is held in by two allen or splined headed bolts, you'll need to undo these and as your solid brake line plumbs directly into the back of the wheel cylinder you are going to lose some fluid and naturally as the fluid displaces air will takes its place so its highly recommended you bleed the brakes after, you may be able to get away with just toppin it up but if you have an airpocket in the brake lines you'll get spongey pedal feel and shoddy brakes

you also shouldnt have to pay for a retest within 7 or 10 days iirc most places give you free ones and i tend to get them to replace anything on the drums themselves as its usually cost of the part plus a tenner labour or so, i managed to get mine mot'd, rear brake shoes and fitting kits replace, master cylinder t piece leaks sorted out, brakes bled, arb properly fitted and exhaust flexi welded on for 110 quid all in.

good luck anyway and fair play for having a do yourself (btw gsf and most motorfactors do gumsons autobleed one man kits) well worth a tenner!

edit: wheel cylinders are proper cheap new from gsf, think mine cost a fiver iirc

Edited 29 April, 200818 yr by grungeisdead

Thanks for the reply grungeisdead,

Yeah, I asked about the retest and lady told me I had to pay because VOSA sates it has to go back on the ramp so I have to pay half the test fee again, so another £17.50! Really made me angry as it's not a major fault! I mean, all they have to do is jack it up and see if the darn wheel turns. What's that, 10 minutes max? Urgh, anyway...

Just had a look at cylinders on GSF and you're right they are dirt cheap! Think I might pop everything back together and order that and the bleed kit rather than try and dismantle the cylinder myself. Don't suppose anyone knows of an intermediate measure I could take just to get the MOT sorted? Only, tax is also due on Thursday and was hoping to have it sorted before then! Don't mind if I have to keep the car off road for a few days as I'm not desperate to use it, but if I can get it re-tested tomorrow or Thursday that's be much better!

Cheers again,

Ex.

Edited 29 April, 200818 yr by Fenris

couple of other bits of info, you might want to get some extra brake fluid too and a brake pipe spanner (which is 6 sided) to undo the solid union at the back of the drum (that goes into the wheel clylinder) as with a normal spanner they tend to round off and with mole grips you run the risk of them slipping and crushing your copper brake lines.

personally costing it up your looking at

5 quid for cylinder

10 for bleed kit

5 quid for brake spanner

5 quid for brake fluid

for the hassle i'd just bung them 20 quid to do it at the garage, they use better brake bleeding systems too (which is one of my least favourite jobs)

and its fooking annoying if you break the copper pipe as youll have to get one made up from yer motorfactors but on the other hand if you get those tools now youll have them for the future if you ever need to get your hands dirty again!

Humm, yeah, it's looking like it might just be easier to get it done. I'm going to call a local place that specialises in VW and see how much it'll be. I had every intention of doing it all myself, but time's short now and if it's not going to cost the Earth then I might just as well have the pros do it. Plus, I'm a little nervous now you've mentioned breaking a copper pipe!

it is really easy mate and I'm sure you'll be fine, if you break a copper pipe its only a couple of quid to get one made up at your local motor factors but its extra hassle. if you have another car to run you to the shops and back you'll be fine.

I've buggered a fair few in my time just due to the car being so old, so id just hop on my bike to the motorfactors and jobs a good un.

i wouldnt bother ringing up a specialist vw garage just phone up your mot'r and say I've taken off the drum and found the wheel cylinder is sticking, if i bring you the new part to fit how much to fit and stick it thru the mot again.

if you book it in at a garage on its own then they will charge you an hours labour minimum probably which is gonna be more than 20 quid.

But literally all you need to do to get the wheel cylinder off is

undo the pipe at the back of the drum (with a 11 or 13mm spanner, either normal or 6 sided brake union spanner)

undo the two bolts holding the wheel cylinder on

remove/replace

bolt all back together ensuring your shoes and the springs are all fitted as they were when you took it all apart

stick your autobleed kit onto the master cylinder, stick some fluid in the bottle and connect to a spare tyre

go round each wheel in order starting with the furthest away from the MC and bleed each caliper/drum in turn

then job done.

if anything does go wrong its not the end of the world to sort and wont be expensive to fix, and at least you've had a go

Just waiting for them to get back to me. So, I'll et the cylinder anyway. Not sure which I need though.

There's this: WHEEL CYLINDER-REAR 15.8 PO (Without Brake Pressure Regulator) 2/85 >7/94

or this: WHEEL CYLINDER-RE 15.8 BQ PO (Without Brake Pressure Regulator) 2/85 >7/94

Or the same but with pressure regulator. I have no idea!

Not averse to phoning GSF but if you know would save me the job!

Edit: Never mind, sorted now! :-)

Second edit: Have decided to give it a go after your good advice grungeisdead. So-called "specialist" VW place a couple of miles down the road wanted... wait for it... £104.and-some-odd-pence! He quoted for the cylinder, a new set of pads (and, judging by the price, the whole kit and caboodle, not just the pads) and labour. And he said if the copper broke that'd be extra. Thieving so-and-so! Tried to tell me that I'd need the new pads, despite there being a good 4mm left on them! Said I should have at least 6mm. Well, in an ideal world where we were all rolling in dosh that'd be OK!

Anyway, will await arrival of new part and eezi kit. Thanks for the HU regarding that!

Edited 29 April, 200818 yr by Fenris

Dont know if your sorted on this but this may help someone else if you are. If you clean up the stuck out part of the cylinder then coat in plus gas. After a minute using some grips try twisting the stuck piston both ways. If it twists then you can try pulling it out slightly. Clean it up again & try pushing it right in again whilst twisting. If it is free enough it will push out by itself. Carefull not to push out the opposite piston.

This doesnt always work, but may get you through your MOT without bleeding your brakes.

Then when you have more time replace the cylinder. I find that once a cylinder has started sticking it will stick again.

Hi,

Are you really sure its a seized piston in the wheel cylinder?

Is it the drivers side rear?

If it is then I had a similar problem on a Mk3. The issue was the front handrake cable not freeing off properly and effectively holding the handbrake on at this wheel.

It's fairly easy to check when the wheel is jacked up by reaching under the car and pulling the handbrake cable junction (where the two rear cables join the frontone). You need to pull it towards the drivers side. If this frees the wheel, as in my case, then a new from handbrake cable is probably required to solve it. Because of the way the cables run it only affect the drivers side rear.

Just a thought...

Good luck