Hello :-)

I've not been on for a while, computer was seriously ill

My head gasket blew on my mk2 mh engine(1272cc) and I've had it skimmed, everything is back on apart from the Pierburgs automatic choke doing it's usual bullshit. You have to keep your foot on the accelerator usual nonsense.

Anyway I've got (what I hope is the right gear) to bolt this webber on. The throttle cable is a golf one which I believe might need some customising. I think something needs cut for clearance?

Could someone maybe photoshop where the respective hoses/vac hoses/wiring go and give me any other advice? I've got an idea where things go but some of the other pictures i've seen conflict with each other.

The webber thread above is great but It would be good to have an idiot proof reference for this particular carb. Also has anyone got pictures of their choke cable on the dash?

This would be well appreciated. I'll post onto the webber thread for other folks benefit too with how I get on etc.

As for jets, well i'm not worrying about that at this stage. I do have another similar carb as an option too.

Oh and there is no scene tax going on here, the pierburg has got to go.

Cheers Dunc

Edited 17 May, 200818 yr by MacColl

theres the vac...the 2 big rubber hoses are fuel in /out theres an arrow molded on the carb to show you what way

looks like a 1300 golf kit..what i used , the throttle return spring will need a bit cutting off as they foul the bulk head.

you also need to bodge up a cable...i used a golf 2 cable and welded on the pedal end from the polo , that was fun lol

Cheers :)

Yes that all makes sense, I found Oddballs thread on Club gti which seems to be the same. I've got the golf mk2 cable. He did a bodge on the cable with a jubilee which I might initially do. Might try looking at a golf pedal assembly at the scrappy. I could try welding but trying to get my head round that way we'll see....

Heres the manifold and carb stripped down a bit, need to get some gasket paper and some rubber hose and bolts to block off the unused inlets/holes

Thanks again, hope this will help others. I probably should of put it in the webber thread but was looking for a quick response. I'll report how I get on anyway...

Cheers Dunc

my cable wasnt as easy as oddball's thread, i tried it how he had his and couldnt get enough throttle opening, just be prepared to spend a while messing with it

you need a 6-8mm adaptor for the fuel hose too

cant recall there being any hoses to block off....just use that white joiner to join the choke water pipes

the standard jetting seem fine on my mh , i get up to 44mpg

id suggest you dismantle the carb for a good clean whiles its off....or at least have the jets out

Cut the restriction wedge out of the adaptor plate

Cut the restriction wedge out of the adaptor plate

does it actualy help? i figured it was put there for a reason

Thanks :)

Decided not to rush things so I'll probably give it thorough clean and take my time with throttle cable maybe weld it.

Oh and thaks hypojam I was thinking of cutting wedge off so I'll do that too...

Cheers Dunc

test the cable with a pair of grips on it first or something...i had to un pick mine and do it again lol

....just use that white joiner to join the choke water pipes

If you haven't got the full Weber conversion kit, you won't have one of those! What Steve means is that you'll need a piece of piping to join up the two ends of rubber hose which used to go to the Pierburg auto-choke.

....just use that white joiner to join the choke water pipes

If you haven't got the full Weber conversion kit, you won't have one of those! What Steve means is that you'll need a piece of piping to join up the two ends of rubber hose which used to go to the Pierburg auto-choke.

or just keep the auto-choke in place connecting the two pipes

Cut the restriction wedge out of the adaptor plate

does it actualy help? i figured it was put there for a reason

Its there to restrict the beast Its best to keep all object out of the way of the path of air/fuel, so cutting that out is what everyone does

Edited 4 May, 200818 yr by hypojam

the joiner piece is shown in his first pic

not convinced about the divider ....i can see it helping low speed air flow? i dont think i could handle any more power anyway

Blind as a bat! Apologies.

Alright :-)

Well yes I've used that white joiner pipe to eliminate the auto choke.

I also cut that wedge out as it makes sense too me

Had carb in bits cleaned it out plus the jets. This was easier than I thought but just paranoid i've put them back in the right way.

My only concern is this throttle to pedal linkage. Any pictures of yours steveo3002? I do get the logic of getting a temporary join to get the right tension. Are you welding the cable straight to the pedal? or welding the polo end on?

Also I take it the choke will be straight forward? Would be good to see an in dash shot, again it's all in the doing..

Firing tomorrow :-) hopefully

Edited 5 May, 200818 yr by MacColl

where the pedal end on both cables is a slim rod..i cut and joined that rod , it fits the pedal like the old one does

yeah the choke is simple really...a vw cable is equipped with a switch to work the dash light

Cheers :-)

Just got the cables to sort out tomorrow which I know could take a while but I'm well happy because it runs :-)

Total relief because with the head skim and new gasket I was crossing fingers for all sorts of reasons. You can tell straight away that with the right adjustment with the cables it's going to be great (baring in mind that i've pretty much been driving this with the head gasket gradually going and the pierburg through winter).

Anyway I found where the choke cable goes behind this panel which I could not believe was screwed from the back I'm like trying to prize the thing of chewing the shit out of it.

And for the benifit of many heres where it goes

Heres the obligotary engine shot(crap photos I know)

I'll hopefully get on the road tomorrow......

look pretty smart, correct jet choice is essential, is it a dmtl or a dmtr? my dmtl was doing 22mpg when i got it (F that) it now does 33-35mpg with exhuberant throttle action.

It's a dmtr and as far as I can figure it out the standard jets are ok for mpg. My main concerns are with 3 other things which are now testing my patience :mad: .

I took a drive home from my workshop (about 3 miles) and it sounds like the drive shaft is clattering especially when I pull away(ingage the clutch) Surely it's not an inner driveshaft joint? sounds way worse than cv joint.

Theres a screaming noise either from the water pump or the altenator(sorry I'm deaf too much rockin roll). My fears are the water pump because I didn't change it when doing the head gasket. My mechanic mate said it seemed fine.

Finally just to send my sanity over the limit the front indicator isn't working. I've tried changing bulb and checked fuses. The other indicators on that side flash profusley which I asume is telling me that the front is out?

Anyone shed any light? The webber is working fine too

Edited 7 May, 200818 yr by MacColl

Good news :)

The clattering was just the exhaust hitting off the brace that goes underneath it. It had been slightly bent up into the path of the exhaust and with the webber pulling better it sounded 10 times worse.

Indicator was just a spade connector and I reckon the new altenator belt is making the noises as it's new.

Just goes to show you when your hit with a few curve balls on top of other issues and your tired you become completely irrational. Seems to run great now. The choke cable is a bit stiff but I'm sure it just needs some adjustment.

I'll round up what I've done with some better pictures soon....

Only concerns now are the car seems to run quite hot, I'll do a 3 mile journey and the rad fan is kicking in as I drive up the farm road. The weather has been a lot warmer mind.

I have put a K&N bolt on filter for fun which I happened to have with the carb. I bodged a cold air pipe too to see if that would help. Would this contribute or is it something to do with the head being skimmed with new gasket?

I kind of only expected the rad fan to kick in when in tailback scenario on a hot day.

Running lean would cause it to get hotter than usual

What jets are you running?

and what colour are the plugs?

Edited 11 May, 200818 yr by hypojam

I'll need to check but you might be on to something, I'll need to check later on thanks :)

I'm now getting into a non comfort zone with mechanical but I'm sure I'll learn, not even sure I have the right socket for the plugs because my mate usually helps but I'm fed up relying on other folk. They were sooty with the Pierburg which I know is rich so bare with me. I take it jets have codes on them, should of checked when I cleaned them.

Cheers

You didn't change the inlet manifold (in other words, did you have to drain the coolant?) did you?

If you did, it could be airlock.

You've got me thinking now, I did change the inlet manifold and it seemed to have an extra hole which I blocked off to match the old one. Should this have been plumbed into the pipes which used to have the auto choke? I need to look at some other peoples set ups to see if I've done this wrong

As for jets I am now going to admit that I'm lost. I've had the four out on top out and cleaned but to be totally honest I don't have a clue how you determine what everything is I've found the idle and the little screw that is linked to the choke but as for lean or rich adjustment I'm lost. I was never a mechanic when I started on this car and the folk who have helped don't seem to know carbs.

If I had some clear indication of exactly what goes where and what steps to take I'm sure I'll get there.

Will this guide that you are writing have specific idiot proof steps to doing this conversion?

If you have had to drain coolant (inlet manifold = yes) then you may very well have an airlock or a lot of air in the system which will give hot running conditions for sure.

If you've not already done so, bleed your coolant system by running the engine (on your drive or stationary) with the coolant expansion tank cap taken off - make sure to run the engine long enough to warm up so that the thermostat opens, to completely flush the engine. Squeeze the top rad hose repeatedly for a while so as to pump the system by hand a bit. Almost all the air will come out to the expansion tank this way, and the system should be OK. As well as all this, run your heater fan on hot setting during the whole time so that the coolant will also circulate into that particular system and get rid of more air.

If you're low on coolant after all this, obviously add some more til you're level.

And that pipe you describe ought to be fine so long as the bung you used is secure. If I am thinking of the same one you are, then I used an old gearbox bolt to block the pipe, with clips.