cant actually go wrong with jbl, especially in a decent enclosure.

next car I'm walling 8 gt4s for definate.

Edited 7 July, 200818 yr by scottpolo2001

^^ Haha sounds like a plan. But yeah, alot of those few year old '1200 watt' JBL's get passed around, and they still drop pretty good.

Soon as i have enough £ for an RE Audio SX12 from the states

i'm just finishing off a tunnel of 12 gt4's in a golf will be out in the next couple of months :)

bargain subs and can do awesome stuff

^^ Look forward to seeing that

i got two of the JBL subs and my rear view mirror vibrates when its only turned up half way. :-)

plus if u can get them second hand then they can be a bargin.

got mine for £45 boxed and they fit nicely on my boot.

Mines only 400wrms, I've adjusted the low pass filter on the amp and gave it a slight + gain. My cd player's bass setting goes from -7 to +7, but it makes the most bass at about +2.

The bass is louder if i set it at +2 and have the main volume at say, 20, than if i have the bass at +5 with the volume at about 14.

Sounds weird but if the bass is bossted too much it doesnt sound nice, just like someone farting into a megafone haha.

At the current setting, on high volume, i can get all 3 mirrors shaking nicely, with good sounding bass.

Just need to uprgade the main speakers now, bloody Mk3's and their lack of door speakers!

Just a general question here guys, how strong in general is the knowledge around "power", "watts", "RMS" and all the other jazz that goes with car audio?

juts recently joined on here and i notice a number of times questions popping up which focus around "how much watts do i need for good bass?" and quotes of big wattages.

i think a simple thing to bear in mind if you are going to buy sounds is that power = volts x amps (current). so if someone is telling you that such and such amplifier has 1000 watts of power and an avg battery reading is say 13.8 volts, you need a constant 72.46 amps of current going down the power wire! this is a lot of current! quick bit of common sense will tell you a £50 amp or £100 amp has not been built to even work at that kind of power and for smaller engined polo's they wont have a battery that can cope with that demand on a regular basis.

also bear in mind power is different at different volumes. if you have a head unti that goes up to 10 and you always play it at 10 and your entire audio is set up correctly and you play lets say a 1KHz frequency THEN you may get 1000 watts out of your amp. lets be honest lads, this is not what normal people do. normal people play music and not test tones and they dont have it on 10 all day everyday.

smithy mk3 going back to your point of the bass being loudest at a setting of +2 and 20 rather than +5 and 14 is due to the quality of the signal coming out of your headunit is smoother in one case (meaning louder volume) and cr4py at the other setting (f4rting noises and generally poor levels). Also as a guide for everyone here, the gain control on an amp is NOT a volume dial. it needs to be set as low as possible to make your amps life as easy as possible. if you want to know the technical details as to why, ask away.

Thats ma 2 pennies worth!!

moral of the story - dont get caught up in numbers of power and see it as the be all and end all of how loud your car will/can be.

it comes down to the subs efficiency motor strength etc i was running my subs off 200 watts rms each while we were waiting for the big amps to arrive in the country, and it was almost as loud as the old subs with 1500rms each, due to the new ones having a stronger motor in them we'v just put the new big amps in so the new ones have 1500 rms each now and there alot louder doing 154db without being setup fully and we reckon 155db is easily possible and it is peaking at 30hz

and did over 155db on music with a door open :)

so power is needed on some subs to get them loud but use efficient subs as the old chaps used to and 300rms per sub can easily get them moving nicely