Hello,

Recently got another car that has had a very shonky respray in the past. It obviously wasn't keyed up properly and the paint has started to flake off in some areas.

Wanted to know the best way to remove this top layer of paint at home?? I don't have a compressor to run a DA sander but i do have access to electric random orbital sanders. Could these be used?? What grit sanding discs should i use and any hints or tips. Would also be willing to do it by hand but i am guessing that it would take the best part of my life. Don't really want to go all the way back to bare metal if i can avoid it.

Any help would be amazing.

Thanks.

Does the paint work look like orange peel. (like the skin of an orange) ?

No its just the top coat is peeling off. They obviously didn't sand down the paint underneath and just sprayed over the top. So the paint hase just flake off in places. Just need to remove this crispy stuff. Don't want to have to go back to bare metal really though. So paint stripper is not an option. Plus it is messy and grim :-)

If its only a panel or two i'd use wet and dry and do it by hand. But if its a lot and all over the car it would be quicker to just sand the whole car and start again then you know its done to your standards.

i guess so. Hmmm. I will have a look at trying a few different options i guess.

Anyone got any more tips??

electric sanders should be okay

whats the plans for it after the paint is off??? proper prime up and paintjob or a rattle can job?

let me know the plans and i can advise on what grit etc

^^^

I would like to know the grits etc. needed for doing a rattle can job, got a few bits to patch up.

p.s sorry to hijackish :)

Well the car that i am spraying is pretty shit but i am still going to prime the car and then its getting a satin finish topcoat. Will be using a compressor though as cans is just to expensive and you don't get as good results.

So what grit sanding discs should i use on say an electric orbital sander to remove the top layer of paint from the car??

Thnaks for the help and hijack away, any info is good.

Get yourself a D.A (dual action) or random orbit sander.

If you are going to primer it again then you want to take it back quite far to allow for a good finish. Start with a p120 grit and see how that goes (it might be a bit heavy). Once you have all the shit paint taken back then use a finer grit to get a finish for painting onto. Use a high build/filler primer for best results and you should be ok...

You need to watch what type of paint your going to use, 2pk or water base paint. As water base costs about £35-£40 per 1.L and you need to have heat on it as you spray.

You need to watch what type of paint your going to use, 2pk or water base paint. As water base costs about £35-£40 per 1.L and you need to have heat on it as you spray.

which is better and easier to use?

hello. if its sarting to flake and fall off the best way is to take most of the paintwork off in that area, as you might run into probs later on! just use a eletric sander with 360grit paper because if theres filler work under the paint you might take to much out and end up with a bigger job to do!

once the paint is off just run over it all with 500grit then wet flat it with 800grit! then your ready for primer! once your ready for your paint wet flat the primer back with 1000grit first then your ready for your coulor!

depending on your painting skills you will get a nice finish once you polished it all up!!

hope that helps. dan

Thanks for all the help so far everyone.......

Waterbased paints should be left to professionals and what i am doing will have a progress thread to go alongside which i will put up on here for you all to enjoy :-)

Any more info or tips would be amazing, but great so far!!

:-)

you dan's got it spot on, if you go atacking it with anythin lest than 320 with an orbital ect... you rick going in to any repairs that my have already been done, if you are gonna use a powered sander of any disription make sure you do it evenly, and just use it to to get the ruff stuff off then use a block after that with plently of water to stop your paper clogging up. once you have primered it again use a block and 600's to keep an even shape, you can do the final 800/1000 by hand.

something else you can do is before flatting your primer dust some black paint over it and this will show up any marks when you are rubbing it down. basically any previous scratches or marks will still have black paint in them until you have flatted it right out.

if you can lay down one tack coat of primer and then lash on one god coat give it ten mins then give it a good double header on oviously try not to get runs but it doesnt really matter as your flatting it anyway. the wetter you put it on the smoother it will dry and easyer it is to flat.

aslo remember to make sure you use pannel wipe before you mask up and then just before you paint, have to clean cloths one for puttin on and one for cleaning it of with!!!!

just think your self lucky you dont have to do this day in day out like me haha

tosh

you dan's got it spot on, if you go atacking it with anythin lest than 320 with an orbital ect... you rick going in to any repairs that my have already been done, if you are gonna use a powered sander of any disription make sure you do it evenly, and just use it to to get the ruff stuff off then use a block after that with plently of water to stop your paper clogging up. once you have primered it again use a block and 600's to keep an even shape, you can do the final 800/1000 by hand.

something else you can do is before flatting your primer dust some black paint over it and this will show up any marks when you are rubbing it down. basically any previous scratches or marks will still have black paint in them until you have flatted it right out.

if you can lay down one tack coat of primer and then lash on one god coat give it ten mins then give it a good double header on oviously try not to get runs but it doesnt really matter as your flatting it anyway. the wetter you put it on the smoother it will dry and easyer it is to flat.

aslo remember to make sure you use pannel wipe before you mask up and then just before you paint, have to clean cloths one for puttin on and one for cleaning it of with!!!!

just think your self lucky you dont have to do this day in day out like me haha

tosh

spot on matey!! are you a panel beater by any chance coz i am :-D

nare pal I'm an aprentise bodywork/painter, i only want to be a painter but i supose it all ties in lol. a bit jobless at the mo no one wants a 22 year old semi trained bodyworker lol.

Be very carefull in the paint you choose if you are spraying yourself! If you use 2k it wil shorten your life expectancy without the correct breathing apparatus! It has iso-cynate in it which is basically cyanide, real dangerous stuff!

to be honest you are gonna have to use 2k weather its a straight red or if you use a red base and then clearcoat it coz the clearcoat or straight colour is gonna be a 2k, i would splash out on a decent mask and use it for any dry sanding you do aswell coz paint and bog dust ant very nice eather. i had to have a few days of work a few moths back coz i got a bit of clearcoat in my brew, god it made me sick literally!!!!!!

Cheers for all the tips and info. Its all great. Don't worry i am not messing with 2k paints at home, i like my lungs.

The finish is not all too important to be honest as the paint couldn't be any worse, still doesn't mean i should do it the best of my ability :-)