Anyone know where or if i can buy one? cheers for help guys. Dan :-D

Anyone know where or if i can buy one? cheers for help guys. Dan :-D

i'm looking for a new antiroll bar for my mk2 coupe

if you fined where to get them from please let me know

bump

Very hard to find ... even in Germany ............ and cost upwards of 600 euro from Salzmann.

a brand new standard one from VAG is about £50

Where are you gonna get your heavily uprated rear beam from?

Afterall,you wouldn't just uprate the front - that'd cause the front inner wheel to lift and you'd have no traction.

You must fit more rear anti roll first,then compliment it with front resistance if it dives too much in corners. So how does one uprate the rear beam enough to warrant an uprated front anti roll bar?

ARB strapped to the beam, similar to a Mk1 Golf. i have browsed over the possibilty of trying to use one from a golf, i haven't taken any measurements of either so i'm not sure how far that will go.

just use a GT/G40 rear beam then, they already have an arb strapped to the beam

Afterall,you wouldn't just uprate the front - that'd cause the front inner wheel to lift and you'd have no traction.

Is that true?. I would have thought a stiffer bar on the front would stop front end roll and there for keep the front end flatter through the corners and there for stopping inner wheel lift.

I understand that what ever you do at one end of the car can effect the opposite but I didn't think it would in the way you say.

Afterall,you wouldn't just uprate the front - that'd cause the front inner wheel to lift and you'd have no traction.

Is that true?. I would have thought a stiffer bar on the front would stop front end roll and there for keep the front end flatter through the corners and there for stopping inner wheel lift.

I understand that what ever you do at one end of the car can effect the opposite but I didn't think it would in the way you say.

Stiffer anti roll bar at the front decreases front end grip and increases understeer. If anything you want rid of the front ARB on a FWD car, however this will require pretty damn stiff springs to reduce roll.

Common modification on 205s is to fit a nice fat rear ARB along with some stiff torsion bars, and then remove the front ARB completely. This is why you see them all cocking an inside rear under heavy cornering, especially when the front suspension isn't hugely stiff.

Obviously removing the front ARB on a polo is tricky and will require subframing or so clever linking!

B&B and Sorg do 20mm ones, but they are like hens teeth, and cost about the same as a wishbone conversion, so go for wishbones

Afterall,you wouldn't just uprate the front - that'd cause the front inner wheel to lift and you'd have no traction.

Is that true?. I would have thought a stiffer bar on the front would stop front end roll and there for keep the front end flatter through the corners and there for stopping inner wheel lift.

I understand that what ever you do at one end of the car can effect the opposite but I didn't think it would in the way you say.

Stiffer anti roll bar at the front decreases front end grip and increases understeer. If anything you want rid of the front ARB on a FWD car, however this will require pretty damn stiff springs to reduce roll.

I understand they can increase under steer (reduce front end grip) but adding an 'uprated' one would surely decrease roll and therefore flatter through the corners and reduce the effect of the inner wheel lifting - (even if it goes to understeer a lot quicker) and if its flatter though the corner it means you the potential to get more traction coming out of the corner when putting the power down. This does depend if the car is understeering when you are trying to power down though but adding sticky tyres would help in cutting out the understeer.

Thinking about it it really does depend where you are driving and the type of track you are driving on. A track with long fast sweeping bends has a different setup to one with lots of tight bends and when you add driving on the road to that equation its a whole different kettle of fish. Its always going to be a compromise.

Setting a car up to handle well on the road is a lot harder (and very different) than setting a car up to handle well on the track. For example wacking on lowered super stiff suspension that works well on the track would not work as well on the road as you would be bouncing and banging all down the road!

I understand they can increase under steer (reduce front end grip) but adding an 'uprated' one would surely decrease roll and therefore flatter through the corners and reduce the effect of the inner wheel lifting - (even if it goes to understeer a lot quicker) and if its flatter though the corner it means you the potential to get more traction coming out of the corner when putting the power down. This does depend if the car is understeering when you are trying to power down though but adding sticky tyres would help in cutting out the understeer.

Thinking about it it really does depend where you are driving and the type of track you are driving on. A track with long fast sweeping bends has a different setup to one with lots of tight bends and when you add driving on the road to that equation its a whole different kettle of fish. Its always going to be a compromise.

Setting a car up to handle well on the road is a lot harder (and very different) than setting a car up to handle well on the track. For example wacking on lowered super stiff suspension that works well on the track would not work as well on the road as you would be bouncing and banging all down the road!

This is very true, it's all about finding a balance and matching the car to what you want.

You need to drive the car and find what you need to set the car up to suit you. Most people find that the best way to change a car's handling characteristics is with the anti-roll bars. Manufacturers will increase the front ARB size and decrease the rear to make the car easier to drive and control, so automatically the beast thing to do to make the car more balanced is reduce the front ARB size and increase the rear.

This won't make it handle any better necessarily, it will just change the balance of the car to something that will potentially make the car handle better when the suspension is set up to do what you want.

just use a GT/G40 rear beam then, they already have an arb strapped to the beam

if it can be done, an aftermarket Mk1 golf ARB is going to be miles stiffer than the intergrated one on the GT/G40 beams.

just finding a car that uses this setup and has the same track.

you can make your own rear anti roll bar, its just a bar at the end of the day with some ends welded on, some drop links made from rose joints, not very hard.

you can make your own rear anti roll bar, its just a bar at the end of the day with some ends welded on, some drop links made from rose joints, not very hard.

Spring steel.

The carbon content and crystalline structure has to be right or it will either snap or permanently deform.

yeah having said that, is the one in the Gt/g40 axel sprung steel? sprung steel welded onto mild? does that even work?

yeah having said that, is the one in the Gt/g40 axel sprung steel? sprung steel welded onto mild? does that even work?

No idea what they use in the G40 beam. You certainly can weld sprung steel to mild, how it would affect the sprung steel is another question and really depends on how much/where it is welded!

that's what i meant :)

does this help ?

Nice setup!

Afterall,you wouldn't just uprate the front - that'd cause the front inner wheel to lift and you'd have no traction.

Is that true?. I would have thought a stiffer bar on the front would stop front end roll and there for keep the front end flatter through the corners and there for stopping inner wheel lift.

I understand that what ever you do at one end of the car can effect the opposite but I didn't think it would in the way you say.

If you uprate the anti roll on one axle more than another,you get a tripod pivot effect. Like a three wheeler,with the anti roll being the axle. This can go in or against your favour,depending on what wheels you need on the ground.

More anti roll on the front,and the car will squat in corners as the back leans more,and lift the inside front wheel off the ground. Great in a rear drive car,as the driven wheels are kept down,and all the frontal weight is on the outside wheel for the most grip.

But if it was front driver,you have no drive..

So on a front driver,you have softer front to keep both wheels down,harder back,and it dives in a corner instead of squatting. All rear weight is on the outside rear wheel where it needs to be to hold it,and inside front wheel is down and keeping drive.

Here is one I made ...... simple enough

Here is one I made ...... simple enough

what have you done to it ??

and how much did it cost ??