just bought these off a fellow dubber for next to nothing.

my fualt for not looking properly but will these seal tyres properly or will i have problems?

they were acid dipped and they kinda f@*ked up.

if not would they be able to be refurbed so they do?

as much info as poss would be great.

cheers

shaun

Edited 3 January, 200917 yr by shaunfrazier

Bead Sealer is your friend

will that stuff deffo work with that sort of corrosion? as it is pretty bad.

where can i get hold of some of that?

any shops?

cheers

doesn't look to bad

with normal tires and not been a ghay and stretching them. lol

send the pictures to a refurb company see how much they'll charge.

then you'll know they canbe sorted :)

Best bet is to take them to you are local tyre shop. They will be able to sand them down and bead seal them for you.

They're legendary wheels,damn right they're worth refurbishing! They were some of the best aftermarket wheels of the 80s. Diamond-cut,of course.

Not as easy as slapping on some bead sealer,though - what did you do,dip them in battery acid? They're horribly,deeply corroded and they need repairing - you cant put a tyre on that.

Cant give you a price. There are plenty of refurbishers who will,though.

skim of filler, primer and paint, jobs a good un.

Agree with Mikey, defo worth the effort!

Just get bizzay with some 80 discs and it'll be reet.

get these properly refurbed and polished up....they will look sick!!!

Sell em to me, that'll sort it :lol:

They're legendary wheels,damn right they're worth refurbishing! They were some of the best aftermarket wheels of the 80s. Diamond-cut,of course.

Not as easy as slapping on some bead sealer,though - what did you do,dip them in battery acid? They're horribly,deeply corroded and they need repairing - you cant put a tyre on that.

Cant give you a price. There are plenty of refurbishers who will,though.

the guy before me said he had them acid dipped, seams to have killed them.lol

how much u reckon it would cost to do 2 of them?

cheers

Sell em to me, that'll sort it :lol:

serious??

i just dont want them to be stilll corroding inside the wheels.

anyhting i can do to make sure there not?

cheers

serious??

If the price is right, drop me a pm

i told you i didnt have them acid dipped, the person that had them before me did, i got them off his hands and started refurbing them but bought some diff rims so these got put to one side

same thing, they have still been acid dipped whoever did it. lmao

Defo worth the effort, lovely wheels. I've got them in 14" and never seen another set yet...

Defo worth the effort, lovely wheels. I've got them in 14" and never seen another set yet...

I'll have your ones Toby if you don't want them.....

update... nitromorsed the best wheel out the 4 and sanded them all down. the lps arent the best but think they will be ok.

all the suds are just placed over. most are snapped.

also the studs that snapped are still in the holes.

whats the easiest way to get them out?

i tryed drilling but dont seam to work.

it just slips.

let me know what u think.

cheers

Its a pain in the cock when they snap. I bought some RXIIs and a few studs had been snapped but I got away with it because once you took the face of the wheels there was a bit of the stud poking out. Gave it some heat and some holey moleys and they came out!

Looking better man, keep on them!

You gonna get them properly re-polished when you've got them neat again?

http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog...shing_Kits.html

will that be good for polishing the lips?

what do i need to do before i use that kit?

and how do i use that kit?

cheers

shaun

Basically you start buy going down the grades of wet and dry. Depends on how bad the metal is on what grade you start with. If there is a lot of deep pitting on them you'll have to start at a high grade and then work your way down. You want to get all of the pitting out of them first so maybe start with something like 400 grit (wet) and then see if that gets rid of the marks. If it does then you work your way up to 600 grit (wet) and then keep working your way up (800, 1200) then you would use the polishing kit on a drill.

If the 400 doesn't work on getting rid of the pitting you need to work backwards from that. So maybe go with a 240 grit, if that doesn't take it out then your looking at spending a long time polishing them! Well, if you have to go to 240 grit you'll probably be on for a long time anyway, lol.

The easiest way to understand polishing metal is that you have a rough and uneven surface, you use a rough abrasive paper to make the surface more or less even. Then you use a less rough paper to take out the big scratches but in turn it will leave lighter scratches. So you remove them by going down the next grade and the next grade until you get to 1200 grade and it should start to look quite shiney. After that a whizz over with a polishing mop and it should look pimp!

ok thats great mate, is it best to get the standard polishing kit? the one with 3 mops and 3 compounds.

how do i go about usig the polishings kits?

cheers