haha, your the 5th person to say that to me.

My neck does hurt but thats from knotted muscles not whiplash haha, plus I'm an honest dude so I'm not really prepared to scam an insurance company because karma comes around and if i cause an accident then I'm sure in return they would claim whiplash

anyway we need to get britan out of the mindset of compensation nation

Wt sweet F. Your luck is not good with cars Saffyola

Always happens to the good-uns

Totally gutted for you matey , buy it back, get it fixed

doesn't sound too bad! you can fix it!!

NOOOOOO :( Gutted for you man :( Il keep an eye out for a small light rear panel.....although any round here wil be spotted about 2 weeks before me by the hopster

Noooo!!!! bastardos

Its fucking Golfs dude, stay away, they're bad news for you

Cant you see if the beemer driver wants to pay you a nice bundle of cashola to get it fixed rather than insurance job?

Surely it would be better for both sides????

haha, your the 5th person to say that to me.

My neck does hurt but thats from knotted muscles not whiplash haha, plus I'm an honest dude so I'm not really prepared to scam an insurance company because karma comes around and if i cause an accident then I'm sure in return they would claim whiplash

anyway we need to get britan out of the mindset of compensation nation

Damn skippy, well said hombre

F**king bawbags, thats shit.

It sounds like you'll be able to turn it round. Keep the faith.

You probably know about these guys for parts...

http://www.golfmk1.co.uk/index.htm

as a very little glimmer of hope body shops are putting a lot of older car few there work shops as work is bit thin on the ground at the mo. all tho you are parts might not be still on the vw self

if it end s up in a body shop for Estimation keep in touch with them and make it clear you would like to buy it back after they say its a right off.. or will pay for the work and get parts.

or get them to estimat as little as pos lol. like no blending the side panels of colour matches

Edited 11 June, 200917 yr by $cotty

well charlie murphy is officially off the road, engine and gearbox are out, gearbox is off and my clutch and pressure plate were very worn, as well as the crankshaft oil seal needing replacing.

rob sorted me out a 210mm clutch to replace the original 190mm item, and near new pressure plate, just need to get hold of a later flywheel with a larger aperature for the clutch, so I'm going to get a lightened and balanced one, a chap hotgolf on club gti will do it for 69 pounds all in, on an exchange basis, but I've been offered one for 50 that was done previously but unused.

engine is going to get dismantled, cleaned up and painted, i have brand new pistons in a rebuilt 1598cc Carb block, it has the same bore stroke as the gti, but the block has a lower compression ratio so i would lose power.

Can i increase the compression ratio by having the block skimmed? i think from memory the gti is 9:4 and the fp 7:1 but ill check up in the haynes.

if the pistons are the same and i cant raise the compression of the rebuilt block, ill just use my existing gti block, but put in the new pistons and new rings while I'm at it.

As low as 7:1 ... cant be, be good for boost if it was! The GTI 1.8's are 10:1, so would have thought the carbed items are circa 9.5:1

the rebuilt block i have in the pictures is shown on here

an ETKA shot of the earliest golf engines (those lucky enough to have swallow tails, its an FP engine code from a 1975-1976 golf)

The compression ratio of the FP 8.2:1 (1588cc Golf LS [carbed] block) vs the compression ratio of 9.5:1 of the EG (1588cc GTI block)

However just today, after painting up the FP block, i found a source that read that the EG (GTI) block used bowl-in-piston combustion chambers of a 'Heron' design (dish-headed piston crowns).

FP Carbed block - brand new pistons

EG GTI block (a previous engine of mine, but the one i have removed from my 138k golf is in a similar state)

you can just see the raised lip and indented centre of the piston on the GTI block!

So now that I know that information, despite the bore stroke being the same at 79.5mm bore x 80mm stroke, putting the new pistons into my current GTI block wouldnt prove fruitful in trying to maintain the golfs original 9.5:1 ratio.

So my question to you all is, what is the real-world implications of a lower compression ratio? would it make much if any noticable difference?

as if its really that bad, then i will work out have to try and work out how much piston to valve clearance there is and if there is ample amounts, work out how much i can safely skim of the block to try and raise the compression ratio nearer to the factory for the injection setup

also painted the gearbox, warm up valve, and various pulleys

so far done a first coat in POR-15 Black Velvet, box cleaned with elbow grease, gunk natural and several hand and drill wire brushes, block had been painted when it was rebuilt in blue, but they had foolishly painted the gasket faces too, silly buggers! so they will get emeryed when the time comes, crankshaft oil seals will be replaced when it goes back together along with a 20mm larger 210mm clutch and a lightened/balanced flywheel.

i have two rebuilt heads, one for the EG (GTI setup so has injector holes) and the FP one, but as its carb'd it has no injector holes, perfect for running on carbs, but after my track record with the last series 1 carbs, non crossflow engines and fire, i think that lower compression and injection seems like a very viable option (and is in keeping with the heritage of the car, depsite having a frankenstien engine)

Edited 31 August, 200917 yr by Karl_CLCoupe

well its official, its going in for a full resto =/

drivers arch - fibreglass city

rear panel

passenger arch

random shots from underneath spot the crusty rear beam mounts =[

Urgh what a horrible thing to find. Like a pube in your pint!!

lots of work for you to get stuck into there though :-)

Good effort chap

My mates '79 mk1 is in worst nick, everywhere we look something shocking appears

cheers man, alot of the pre 80 cars are rotten as a pear and go in some very weird places. i know I'm going to uncover more hidden horrors as i progress but for a series 1 its not in too bad nick.

its theraputic yet slightly sad merking what was a perfectly good car, but if it stayed on the road this winter as it did last it would be a much harder job to restore next year.

seriously considernig just buying a welder and having a do although it probably will end in a bag of fail =D

tried a few places regarding finding someone who is up for doing the welding for me as ill do everything else, seam sealing, grinding back the welds etc but to no avail

if anyones short of work and fancies some spare cash and a play on a couple of old cars gimme a holla

Shittt man! Thats a fair bit of rust, good job you caught it now though and not next year :)

Id be scared of putting an axle stand under incase it came through though

Thats on a par with my caddy! yikes

At least you'll know it's rust free for good.

Am I the the only person that puts bits of wood on my axle stands? obviously your rust issues outway the need to protect the underbelly.

olly your afro would hold it up =D

and i would think about would bit it doesnt have the rolled upwards edges so id be worried about the security of it.

never really ken where to stick axle stands reallly any holes a goal

Its gone now tho :( I shouldve kept it for you to have as a little furry safety helmet

rofl, I'm sad now i dont have a hamster hat =[

Give me 6 months and il make you one

You & your pics.....................felt wrong picking a hole in your rear end!!!

well well well, insurance company have decided in my favour woohoo.

was offered a cash sum of 500 pounds today for it, to which i politely declined.

they have also offered to pick up and collect the car, perform the repair and return the car to me

only problem is i have other work i wish to get done on the car, and if they were to repair the vehicle they would just repair the area affected by the crash. and paint it, although id be repainting the vehicle after I've finished the rest of the restoration so it would be pointless!

No chance i would let them conduct the rest of the repair work for me either as they would be charging astronomical prices.

I've told them to sent out an engineer/assessor and give me a proper estimation of the damage repair, also bearing in mind that a replacement rear panel would cost in upwards of 350 pounds if one can be sourced.

I'm aiming for £1,000 as that is the reserve cost that my insurance company initially put forward, and then can lick my balls if they think I'm taking any less!

i wish you luck man:(

i read the entire thread and was in for a shock when i saw the news.

wtf!

=O