and what year do i need them off?

any help appreciated :)

cheers

I ran '01 CBR600F-Y carbs on my ABD and it sounded lovely,went very well for a 1.4,and i saw over 60mpg.

But i only used them because i had them - i think 400s would be even better,with a tighter sound making them a bit louder,faster flow making them even more efficient,and they'll still be big enough for the top end.

I ran '01 CBR600F-Y carbs on my ABD and it sounded lovely,went very well for a 1.4,and i saw over 60mpg.

But i only used them because i had them - i think 400s would be even better,with a tighter sound making them a bit louder,faster flow making them even more efficient,and they'll still be big enough for the top end.

why thankyou!!!

and did where did you attach the vaccum pipe for the vaccum advance too?

thankyou!

oli

I ran '01 CBR600F-Y carbs on my ABD and it sounded lovely,went very well for a 1.4,and i saw over 60mpg.

But i only used them because i had them - i think 400s would be even better,with a tighter sound making them a bit louder,faster flow making them even more efficient,and they'll still be big enough for the top end.

agreed! i think you might block off the vacuum pipe (if you are talking dizzy) as it only equates to 2-3 mpgs!

I ran '01 CBR600F-Y carbs on my ABD and it sounded lovely,went very well for a 1.4,and i saw over 60mpg.

But i only used them because i had them - i think 400s would be even better,with a tighter sound making them a bit louder,faster flow making them even more efficient,and they'll still be big enough for the top end.

agreed! i think you might block off the vacuum pipe (if you are talking dizzy) as it only equates to 2-3 mpgs!

i'll go for 400's i think then, theres a bike breakers just down the road from me so i'll go and have a word i think :)

and i need a loom of a carb polo?

what about a mk2 golf driver?

and off topic could anyone tell me why I'm only registered as a forum user when i've already paid about a week ago?

thankyou

oli

Edited 1 May, 200917 yr by L99OLO

You can take vac from the carbs,but it means drilling them and running a pipe from one to the other,through the four,and attaching a fitting to the one on the end. That'd be the engine side of the butterfly - there is a casting in the side of the carbs for this.

As for the membership,this is a non-profit site and it'll get done whenever the volunteer admin gets some spare time,which is usually quicker than id bother to do.

You can take vac from the carbs,but it means drilling them and running a pipe from one to the other,through the four,and attaching a fitting to the one on the end. That'd be the engine side of the butterfly - there is a casting in the side of the carbs for this.

As for the membership,this is a non-profit site and it'll get done whenever the volunteer admin gets some spare time,which is usually quicker than id bother to do.

could i leave the vac off then?

yeah no worries about the membership i was just wondering like.

thankyou

I wouldn't just ignore the ignition system and hope it'll take care of its self.

If you modify an engine you will alter its need for ignition advance.

Personally I would run the vacuum advance, and would think about recurving the dizzy.

A RR session to see what advance gives best power/torque would be a great help.

I wouldn't just ignore the ignition system and hope it'll take care of its self.

If you modify an engine you will alter its need for ignition advance.

Personally I would run the vacuum advance, and would think about recurving the dizzy.

A RR session to see what advance gives best power/torque would be a great help.

so without the advance would the engine not perform aswell at higher revs due to the timing being more retarded?

I'm guessing that it would not advance at all through the rev range when it should?

cheers

No.

The advance will be enough to run the engine.

You may not be getting every single last HP, but it will be more than acceptable.

In fact it will run perfectly well.

The vacuum advance only advances the ignition at part throttle, which gives better fuel ecconomy and better throttle responce.

I would just be tempted to look for a couple of extra horses by playing with the ignition set up.

I've probably got over anal OCD or something.

No.

The advance will be enough to run the engine.

You may not be getting every single last HP, but it will be more than acceptable.

In fact it will run perfectly well.

The vacuum advance only advances the ignition at part throttle, which gives better fuel ecconomy and better throttle responce.

I would just be tempted to look for a couple of extra horses by playing with the ignition set up.

I've probably got over anal OCD or something.

if theres even minimal power to be had from doing this though mate i totally understand, better to do the job right.

if there isnt much point though, could i not use the abd dizzy then?

with the old carb wiring loom?

thankyou for your help and advice its greatly appreciated

Vac advance is better,and not hard to do.

But Heg123 has a rally car doing well when its racing,and he's running his dizzy without vac.

I'm using a bit of semi-hard plastic pipe (polyurethane air line) for mine,but my carbs are in bits at the moment so i'll get a photo next week when they're re-fitted.

Vac advance is better,and not hard to do.

But Heg123 has a rally car doing well when its racing,and he's running his dizzy without vac.

I'm using a bit of semi-hard plastic pipe (polyurethane air line) for mine,but my carbs are in bits at the moment so i'll get a photo next week when they're re-fitted.

is there a plug and play engine wiring loom for my car 92 polo fox 1043 spi?

so i can run this set up

and which bits and bobs will i need to collect?

and what fuel pressure would you reccomend for the cbr00 carbs?

thankyou

oli

bump bump bump

:)

You are completely changing the fuelling and ignition system effectively so you will need the engine bay half of a mk2 polo wiring loom along with its dizzy, coil and amplifier. Its the most basic loom you can get so its perfect for the job.

Fuel pressure figure probably best found out from a bike specialist, should think it would be somewhere between 2 and 3 psi. You'll need to get a regulator too and an electric pump if you haven't got one already.

Ignition timing can make more of a difference than a few HP, if its not curved correctly or near its optimum then you can easily loose a fair chunk of your power as well as your MPG. Considering you're flowing more air and fuel you'll want the ignition advance to ramp up faster than standard, 1300 MH dizzys are pretty sluggish as standard hence why they enjoy being revved. You could get good power but it may be limited to a window where the fuelling and ignition coincide, the rest of the range maybe a bit retarded or over advanced robbing power.

Heg123 is running a standard mk2 dizzy on a 16V rally race car, not a daily. The 4 valve head has much improved flow characteristics and therefore doesn't need such an aggressive advance curve or max advance figure. Plus its driven hard not run to tesco and back which normally means the first half of the rev range isn't used to mpg, power and efficiency isn't top of the agenda, on a road car its matters you cannot drive everywhere at 4000RPM+! Just airing some reservations..... I'm not convinced that bike carbs mated to a standard head and dizzy produce good results. I have run Dellorto carbs for a good few years and an ignition re-curve is essential if you want the best from them. After all they're the same thing just old fashioned.

Either way its doable and like you said if you do a proper job you will reap the benefits!! :)

Edited 3 May, 200917 yr by RedRoller

You are completely changing the fuelling and ignition system effectively so you will need the engine bay half of a mk2 polo wiring loom along with its dizzy, coil and amplifier. Its the most basic loom you can get so its perfect for the job.

Fuel pressure figure probably best found out from a bike specialist, should think it would be somewhere between 2 and 3 psi. You'll need to get a regulator too and an electric pump if you haven't got one already.

Ignition timing can make more of a difference than a few HP, if its not curved correctly or near its optimum then you can easily loose a fair chunk of your power as well as your MPG. Considering you're flowing more air and fuel you'll want the ignition advance to ramp up faster than standard, 1300 MH dizzys are pretty sluggish as standard hence why they enjoy being revved. You could get good power but it may be limited to a window where the fuelling and ignition coincide, the rest of the range maybe a bit retarded or over advanced robbing power.

Heg123 is running a standard mk2 dizzy on a 16V rally race car, not a daily. The 4 valve head has much improved flow characteristics and therefore doesn't need such an aggressive advance curve or max advance figure. Plus its driven hard not run to tesco and back which normally means the first half of the rev range isn't used to mpg, power and efficiency isn't top of the agenda, on a road car its matters you cannot drive everywhere at 4000RPM+! Just airing some reservations..... I'm not convinced that bike carbs mated to a standard head and dizzy produce good results. I have run Dellorto carbs for a good few years and an ignition re-curve is essential if you want the best from them. After all they're the same thing just old fashioned.

Either way its doable and like you said if you do a proper job you will reap the benefits!! :)

thankyou :)

so i suppose ill want all coupe s bits?

oli

You only need the later MK2 ignition system,which compromises of three components and a stand-alone bit of wiring loom,which is only linked into the car via a lead to the battery and lead to the ignition feed.

Later 1.3 litre MK2 Golfs also run an identical system,and that too will work.

Your standard fuel pump will be fine,just connect the two fuel lines in the bay,and single fuel pipe from the carbs,to a three way fitting (T piece). The carbs will take what they need and the rest will be pumped back to the tank - no regulator needed that way,as the carbs are fed purely on back-pressure.