Got a full stainless steel exhaust (2.5") made by Scorpion with a custom decat downpipe for under a hundred quid. Initially wasnt too keen on the twin exit, but it sounds awesome when booting it and I think it suits the car now. So I'm happy.

After all the hard work was out of the way it was time to get her on the road and iron out any creases that appeared, get an MOT and all that. In this process, I had the charger (that I bought unserviced) opened to look inside and found this...

Edited 12 January, 201016 yr by goosyganger

thats not good. the outlet is definately fecked. Scroll looks like its taken a bit of a battering in the process!

Your right Pete, it was well and truely fecked Ha. However, I was reassured it held boost when in the previous owners car, not sure how but hey.

Nevertheless, it was resolved and I managed to get a set of casings for free and wanted to see whether I could get away with using the scroll even though it has got some damage on it. So, I bolted it together with the new casings and sent it off to Jabba. Decided to get an R1 service rather than getting it done later. Brian at Jabba checked it out and didnt see it causing much of a problem and carried out the service. Lots of money and two weeks later, this is how it looked...

Was cleaned up and ported out with all the servicing included. I'm a little sad, but I love it when port/polishing is done nicely and you can see the size difference between the two inlet ports. Also the porting on the outlet is pretty awesome.

Edited 12 January, 201016 yr by goosyganger

rlly nice mate

After this drama was all over with, the charger went back into the car (luckily I was on a beach in Sri lanka while it was being done lol), it was time for the MOT.

Took it down to Peugeot dealership to have the MOT where my friend has an aquaintance and knows about modified cars and knows we do the work ourselves so wouldnt try to get the car into the garage to have work done, so just less questions asked and hassle. It passed with a few advisories like no light on the number plate at the back, front plate is in the window, and my shocks needed attention, but nothing worth failing on.

So I took his advice since there is more power going through the wheels I got onto PhilJ and purchased one of his lowering shock and spring kits. Good value.

Started out fitting them thinking that the strut was too rusted to change the shock cartridge but looks were decieving. I was recommended to buy some Stillsons and it did the job to get the cap off on the strut that holds the cartridge. This is now my favourite tool lol. Here is how it was done...

Firstly, I couldnt get the ball joint off that is connected to the strut and to the traction arm. So I dismanteled it from where the steering column meets the traction arms.

The undid the top cap. This can be a little tricky and I found the hard way that its a bitch to remove the self-locking nut on the top. You need a deep set spanner (Machine mart do them) and you need something to grip the top cap. I gripped it with the stillsons. Came straight off.

Once the cap is off I concentrated on the wishbone and all that. Once the whole strut is out dismantling the rest isnt hard.

The first pic is the old shock and spring. You can see that the spring didnt even need spring clamps to get it off. Pretty low.

rlly nice mate

Thanks dude.

Once the shocks were done I could finally drive my new G40! I had to then get through the running in process of both the charger and the engine. I was recommended to do 1000miles on the engine to run it in. This included 100miles on crap oil to rinse the crankcase and all oil chanels of all things that collected whilst dismantled (dust, dirty, metal shavings etc). Then at the 100mile change put in more not so good oil and do 500miles. Once 600miles were completed do an oil change to good oil, I opted for Castrol 10-40. Then do another 500 miles and do the final oil change with good oil, during this process I didnt exceed 4000RPM. Then your good to go!

The charger was run in at 400miles under 4000RPM (off boost).

One night after work a friend asked if he could film me and my mate doing a mini launch down the road we were parked so here is a youtube vid of her running. Its nothing special, just filmed on a phone.

Over all I'm very pleased with the work I did. This project was my first, not to mention the first time I have seen an engine outside of a car lol. It was difficult, and have learnt a lot of things and it was definatly a journy. I have a folder containing all the reciepts showing what I have spent. Ill calculate it later and will give an idea of how much I spent, this will give others that are thinking about doing a conversion of how much it will cost.

Enjoy the vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MA2rBWGkh6k

Edited 12 January, 201016 yr by goosyganger

nice,

lol - blue smoke coming out the pug?

nice,

lol - blue smoke coming out the pug?

Thanks,

lool, yeah, its a 2.0 16v conversion from a 306 gti6, but on carbs. We finished our conversions around the same time, and he didnt have the carbs balanced yet, but even now it still smokes a bit when he is booting it lol.Hes had it looked at a few times and its a mystery.

well oil's getting burnt somehow!

During all the enjoyment of driving around in the G, loving every second, there is always that feeling that you want more power. At the moment I'm running standard twin V-Belts on a standard charger pulley. The most obvious mod to do next is a toothed pulley kit with a 65mm charger pulley.

I want to keep it usuable on a daily basis so dont want anything too lary that will compromise the internals. I'm aiming for around 160bhp as a target and feel as though this mod will bring me close.

I do have some more modding to do but this requires money so will take a little while. I will keep this post updated with future mods.

Here are some pics of what is required for the pulley conversion...

1. Toothed pulleys and belt - 230Euros

2. 250cc G60 injectors to compensate the extra fuel required. I've been told its not necessary but good to do. Having them cleaned before fitting. - Injectors about £40, Cleaning - £35 from PPP or £55 by injectorcleaning.co.uk.

3. Chip to go into the ECU with a new map to allow for this mod as the standard one will not work with it. I chose a Polo Performance Parts G40 chip that will allow for this mod, but also has an increased limiter (to almost 8k) to prevent me accidently hitting the limiter. Not only does it feel like your hitting a brick wall, but also can damage seals in the charger. Just need to keep an eye on my revs when booting it. ( currently in the post, collecting tomorrow from the post office so will post a pic.) - £55 posted (with increased limiter)

Edited 12 January, 201016 yr by goosyganger

not seen this thread for a long while, I'm glad you got it up and running.

Edited 11 January, 201016 yr by captin_urbis

very nice mate, made a nice job of that .

lots of folk do conversions and just chuck a manky engine in and then moan how its gives problems.

but you put the effort in and did a proper job

shame about your charger casing thats what we all fear when it goes for a service.

Just read this thread its inspriational for me, i have just got my MK3 1.3 Gensis Coupe and i would love to swap the engine out to a GT or G40 lump. One day!!

Nice, thats the way to do it.

Once I got the engine in and the charger set up I have to get some silicon hosing so I went to a local place near me. Once I got the hosing I thought it might be worth getting them to make my brakes lines, charger oil feeds hoses, mocal oil cooler (was a BARGAIN!), thermostatic sandwhich plate, and braided oil cooling hoses. All the braided lines and pipes were made on the spot, I just told them what I needed. Awesome place, its called Think automotive and they are a mocal dealer. Available to buy stuff on the web too.

Ow and got some normal Brake pads from GSF ( witha CP discount )

The braided hoses they do come with stainless steel connections and a plastic coating over the braiding for protection. Nice looking stuff.

Fitted all the hoses and made a fitting behind the grill for the oil cooler.

Hi Mate,

Do you have any more pics of the oil cooler install / brackets and where it mounts? looks exactly where i need to mount mine,

what size cooler is it you've used? and any mor einfo on that kit.

Cheers Mate

love this thread, hats off to you :)

Just noticed your toothies .... have you fitted them yet>? look the same as mine .... they are interesting

not seen this thread for a long while, I'm glad you got it up and running.

Yeah it has been a few months mate, but I got too involved with how to get it to work and then as time passed I forgot to update, but never stopped taking pics . Thanks, I'm very pleased too!! Hows your project coming on?

very nice mate, made a nice job of that .

lots of folk do conversions and just chuck a manky engine in and then moan how its gives problems.

but you put the effort in and did a proper job

shame about your charger casing thats what we all fear when it goes for a service.

Thanks dude, lol. I only had plans to change major gaskets and check for wear and tear lol, but this always happens. I get carried away and want to just do the lot. In for a penny and all that lol.

Yeah the casings were a bit of a bummer but I managed to get the guy to get me some new ones at his expence and just forget about it. Works now which is the main thing . I hope not to find anything like that again in there for a while though ha.

Just read this thread its inspriational for me, i have just got my MK3 1.3 Gensis Coupe and i would love to swap the engine out to a GT or G40 lump. One day!!

Haha, I'm glad it has affected you in a positive way, thanks. Getting hold of a full GT conversion isnt very costly, I'm seen plenty go on here. I think doing a GT conversion would be much less expensive. Especially in the long run. Good luck though if you do. Definatly something you will gain a lot of knowledge from.

Hi Mate,

Do you have any more pics of the oil cooler install / brackets and where it mounts? looks exactly where i need to mount mine,

what size cooler is it you've used? and any mor einfo on that kit.

Cheers Mate

I will do you a little write up on it mate and get a piccy of it from a different angel too so you can see better. Its not difficult to make, I freestyled mine and got all the bits from B&Q. But it works good. Ill also get you prices on what it cost me for the set up. The cooler I got is a 15 row, dont know about the width Ill also find that out.

Just noticed your toothies .... have you fitted them yet>? look the same as mine .... they are interesting

No I was going to fit them today but was working on my boot lid instead lol. Will be fitting it soon though, I got the chip for it today just waiting on getting the injectors cleaned, then will install... Why do you say interesting? Who are yours made by?

Ow, thanks for all the replies guys, I'm greatful for the nice comments. If anyone has any queries ill be happy to help...

""I will do you a little write up on it mate and get a piccy of it from a different angel too so you can see better. Its not difficult to make, I freestyled mine and got all the bits from B&Q. But it works good. Ill also get you prices on what it cost me for the set up. The cooler I got is a 15 row, dont know about the width Ill also find that out. ""

""No I was going to fit them today but was working on my boot lid instead lol. Will be fitting it soon though, I got the chip for it today just waiting on getting the injectors cleaned, then will install... Why do you say interesting? Who are yours made by?""

-Awesome cheers mate sounds good, mine were from austria i think i says on my build thread somewhere but had to machine a few mm off the back of the alternator pully and put in a slot for the woodruff as that didnt come in for some reason i didnt even notice until 8 months later after i bought them , only when i came to fit.

Jake

Jake,

Here are the prices for the oil cooler bits and bobs. Also Ill include the reference number for Think Automotive Ltd where I got the bits from, www.thinkauto.com.

Mocal Oil Cooler 16Row, 124mm high, 115mm Width - £35 (was 50% discount because it was a damaged one. Very small stone chip and half a bracket was cut then returned for refund. They do a range of damaged ones going cheap :)) - OC1163-8

The Male to Male Steel threaded adapters for the Sandwhich plate M18x1.5 - £2.07each X2 - MMS5-8-85

Stainless steel braided hose 1/2" - £11.07 Excluding VAT at 17.5%) per metre - I used 1.210metre - £11.39 (15% VAT) - I asked them to make one of the hoses a few inches longer because it needs to reacher slightly further - S100R6-8

Female threaded adapters to go on the hoses 1/2" - £3.29each X4 - HEFSW43-8

Sandwich plate (take-off plate) - I don't seem to have the price on any of the invoices which is strange, maybe they chucked it in with the stuff I bought, have no idea. But I think he said the one I got was around £30-£35, this is a thermostatic one. Only opens the cooler when oil needs to be cooled so doesnt overload your pump. Here is the ref numbers though and perhaps you can enquire - Sp1 - TOP1/TOPO1 type A. I'm pretty sure its that.

Mounting for oil cooler

As far as the mounting goes, pop to your local B&Q and buy a pack of these flat brackets (product no 328500001). They come in like a pack of 10 but you only need to use 4. About £2.

Get some 5mm allen key bolts and nuts to suit X 8. They are easier to work with in tight areas. I work at a bike shop so we have loads of little allen key bolts and nyloc nuts which I would recommend. s=So might be worth popping down to your local bike shop theyll no doubt have them and give them to you for free.

Locate where you want it to sit. Obviously you want it just inside so that the grill fits back on ok.

When fitting the brackets obviously use the lower mounting brackets on the cooler BUT remember the cooler is going to be sitting with the hose connections facing the ground (upside down). You can see from the picture how it sits. The bracket on the oil cooler has 2 holes, the flat brackets you got from B&Q should have its holes the same distance apart so you can secure these flat brackets to the oil coller with your allen key bolts. One goes on the top and one on the bottom as you can see in the pic. Do this for both sides. Youll need to tighten the brackets onto the cooler first as you cant really get in later.

You can see which panel on the car that I have used to secure this fittings. As you can see I had to drill a hole through the top bit and straight through directly under it so that I could drop the bolt through the top bit to the hole just under it. Make th top hole slightly bigger then 5mm though so you can get it out easily later.

Then find where you need to drill a hole on the panel to be able to secure the hole further in on the flat bracket.

Tighten everything up and your good to go.

Something to look out for is either getting shortish bolts or cutting them down a bit otherwise you will have to cut a little groove into your bumper to let the bumper sit nicely. I'm sure youll figure that bit out though.

Like I said, nothing rocket science. Might not look the best but its behind your grill so noone sees. Also it cost me about £3 to make it fit onto the car! Happy days!

Hope this helps - here are some pics to assist.

Edited 14 January, 201016 yr by goosyganger

:)

Thanks alot for that no doubt ill have at least one question for you when i end up fitting it