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Active sub won't turn on

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Ok guys I've fitted my active sub n connected the remote wire to the wire marked p. Cont (power control) but the amp won't turn on?!? What could it be?

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Have you chcked the fuse? Was the p.cont wire blue? Do you have any other blue wires?

H&S

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Yea fuse is ok! Yes there's two blue wires one connects to my ablntenna amplifier an one to my sub, do I need to select anything settings wise in my head unit as in the manual the model up from mine has sub control on or off? I don have that?

Hmmm, sounds like everything should be working. How do you know it hasnt turned on, is there no light on the sub/amp, or is there no sound? Is it grounded properly, is there power getting to the amp?

If you have a voltmeter, its worth cheching EVERY connection between the head--> control wire --> sub/amp (should only be a tiny voltage

And also check all the power lead connections too

H&S

scratch that. mis-read :lol:

Is the speaker plugged in using RCA connections or spliced into the speaker outs?

Edited by Cymro

scratch that. mis-read :lol:

Is the speaker plugged in using RCA connections or spliced into the speaker outs?

You stalking my threads again :-D

H&S

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No power lights no nothing I'm using RCA adapter from my rear speaker outputs, I'll check it with multi meter tomorrow! Cheers guys!

scratch that. mis-read :lol:

Is the speaker plugged in using RCA connections or spliced into the speaker outs?

You stalking my threads again :-D

H&S

We seems to be crossing paths often recently. :lol:

Strange, the RCA's are in built to the head unit or are they spliced into the standard speaker feeds?

Do you have rear speakers? this may sound stupid and you have properly looked at this but have you tried changing the fader settings as well?

Edited by Cymro

Well without the power light, i wouldnt worry about your speaker cables just yet. Best to check everything. I had this problem last year, and it turned out to be the control wire had split at the solder joint i had made. Bugger was under the carpet too! grrr!

H&S

  • Author

Yea spliced into rear outputs but I ain't usin them so it's cool, I have earthed behind the rear lights at existing earth point, power to the positive terminal on the "b8 2 rees" the remote wire to head unit but I am using a 4 gauge setup but I couldn't get anything to crimp onto 4 gauge that would fit in the gap on the amp to screw it down so I've twists the ends and screwed them down (screws have a flat plate underneath to hold them in, I can't think what it could be cept my h/u or my sub! I will defo have to test it I think! Was really lookin forwards to it aswell!

Stick with it, i went through days of trial and error before i got all mine sorted. Definately check all of your connections though, to make sure you're getting power. You should have 12V at the amp/sub and about 3v from the control wire. Why have you earthed at the front of the car, isn't there one in the boot?

H&S

Stick with it, i went through days of trial and error before i got all mine sorted. Definately check all of your connections though, to make sure you're getting power. You should have 12V at the amp/sub and about 3v from the control wire. Why have you earthed at the front of the car, isn't there one in the boot?

H&S

  • Author

I have earthed at the rear, behind rear lights! I am gonna get it sorted hopefully! I'll invest in a 9v battery for the multi meter haha or try my test lamp on the wires or maybe both! Cheers guys

sorry, i thought you meant front light :? wally!

What car do you have btw?

H&S

continuity tester ftw, never hear of anyone using them on here but such an easy way to test wires integrity on ELV circuits/obviously multimeter does this on the resistance setting (ohms scale) but voltage & continuity tester cheaper and easier to use

  • Author

GOT THE BUGGER WORKING YEY!!!! the Fuse was fubar'd not blown, the fuse wasn't actually attached inside tv metal cap!! I checked everything with multimeter then wittled it down to the fuse by I could see it wasn't blown but I took it out and looked and it wasn't attached it fell about 2mm short of the cap!!!!

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