Do they? Is that only on the 3f engine though?

I don't think they protrude on my MH

according to the dimensions both the 3f and mh pistons protrude the top of the block

isnt there a trigger wheel you can use already exist? my mate has a trigger wheel he bought to convert to coilpacks and it just sits behind the pulley on the crank.

il be doing this megasquirt setup on my next engine build - so youl be doing me a nice bit of research mate.

I never really looked at the pistons on my AAV i had in bits, but id say the 3f was maybe .005" outa the bore

isnt there a trigger wheel you can use already exist? my mate has a trigger wheel he bought to convert to coilpacks and it just sits behind the pulley on the crank.

il be doing this megasquirt setup on my next engine build - so youl be doing me a nice bit of research mate.

ye your right, there for sale on ebay, just sandwiches between the crank and alternator drive pulley

found it

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trigger-Wheel-36-1-V...=item27b74b7571

isnt there a trigger wheel you can use already exist? my mate has a trigger wheel he bought to convert to coilpacks and it just sits behind the pulley on the crank.

il be doing this megasquirt setup on my next engine build - so youl be doing me a nice bit of research mate.

ye your right, there for sale on ebay, just sandwiches between the crank and alternator drive pulley

found it

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Trigger-Wheel-36-1-V...=item27b74b7571

I hadn't seen that! But I doubt it would fit cos there's fack all room between the back of the pulley and the belt tensioner, unless it's small enough to clear the tensioner. However, I recon it'd probably fit if i spaced it and fitted it on the outside of the pulley. But then I'd have to source longer bolts... Hmmm.

Edited 19 December, 201015 yr by Iscariot

Basically got pissed about by the chap with the grey bready.. I told him i'll have it and then he sold it to someone else... then the sale fell through and a few days ago he sent me a message telling me it was back up for sale but i dont have any monies now as I've spent it all on parts

So gonna stick it out with this shell - I've been teaching myself how to weld whilst I've been home and gonna have a crack at my floorpan (got nothing to loose i guess, and it will be cheaper)

I already welded up my exhaust and put a nice plate over the cat to stop it from blowing and being ripped to shreds. :-)

One of the offending holes:

I think once i've taken out all the sound deadening and got rid of the old metal it will be about the diameter of a can of beans.

Pics to come of progress once i get some sheet metal!

Wow thats a hole haha.

I'm an alright welder mate, Ill give you a hand if you want?

Where you doing the work?

M

Ah I'm doin it at home in Norwich man, otherwise id say come give us a hand! Should be alright tho.

Never welded a floorpan before, should be an experience

It's not going to be hard, Just bare in mind that the paint and sealent is flammable, I would grind away about 1" all the way around the hole before you weld it.

The heat that goes through the metal travels a long way with it being very thin, So it bubbles up and becomes very sticky, i found that it doesn't go back to its normal state and just stays soft and horrible,

Also bare in mind that the risk of "blowing through" the thing metal is pretty high, so keep the power pretty low.

M

those arches and the diagram looks helpful

did you lose much paint ?

have to fill of spray anything atall?

looking good mate

Hint for a made to fit trigger wheel, get one from a mk5 GTI engine. It's mounted in the ring around the crank that prevents oil from coming out into the gearbox'-bellhousing (sorry, don't know the eglish term for one of those, in HOlland we call them a "keerring").

VW part-codes are:

030 103 171 L for the oil leak preventor with the hole for the sensor

030 609 433 Q for the actual sensor/trigger

Total set is approximately 110 euro's, OEM quality that works like a charm!

It's not going to be hard, Just bare in mind that the paint and sealent is flammable, I would grind away about 1" all the way around the hole before you weld it.

The heat that goes through the metal travels a long way with it being very thin, So it bubbles up and becomes very sticky, i found that it doesn't go back to its normal state and just stays soft and horrible,

Also bare in mind that the risk of "blowing through" the thing metal is pretty high, so keep the power pretty low.

M

Haha yeah i chipped off some of that sealant on the inside and burnt it to test how flammable it was, fucking stank! Think I'm gonna get rid of all of it, not sure what I'm gonna replace it with though If it is just sound deadening, ill buy some dynamat or some shit, anyone know what it is for sure (on the inside i mean)?

Yeah I think I will stay on the safe side to start with, as you say the metal is thin! When I welded up my exhaust i pretty much had no idea what setting to have the welder on and blew a hole straight through it as soon as i touched it

01mlacey; Yeah lost most of the paint to be fair, as i used panel beating hammers and not an arch roller! Needed a bit of filler too, I got the shape fine but it was a bit ripply so i had to use a couple of skims, then just re-sprayed it with halfrauds rattle cans (finish is good though, you can't tell).

Thanks for that Jarno, I've done a bit of research on using a mk5 gti setup before, but they use a 60-2 trigger wheel and that won't work with the ford EDIS system that I'm using They require a 36-1 instead.

forgot to add in my original post that I've also got a cracked radiator this car is so fucked

Edited 30 December, 201015 yr by Iscariot

Well I welded up the hole on the passenger side no bother, it was tiny, probably about 5cm squared.

The drivers side however is a different story

Had to cut a shed load out before the metal became clean and non rusty. It's been plated and welded now but was really dark by the time i was finished so will get some pics tomorrow i think.

Anyway whilst I was down in the footwell taking out the footrest plate, i looked up to see a large amount of rust on the bottom of the battery tray. Which has already been repaired once!

So, more plating and welding tomorrow it is!

Anyone know where I can get some good quality seam sealer?

For some reason i actually enjoy welding up things like this,

Iv got a full system to build for the mk3 and i cant wait! haha

Good work though dude, Your battery tray looked about as bad as my mk2.

If i was you, I would sort the tray out, seal it all up and paint it. Then re-locate the battery to the boot, It stops all the damp mossy shitty crappy sludgey water getting trapped.

M

Good effort lad.

I'm with max on this, drill or grind off the spots that hold the battery locating bracket and bin it. Should make repairing the rest of the scuttle easier. Then relocate your battery for better weight distribution and future rust prevention.

Cheers for the advice!

I thought i'd probably end up hacking that bracket off, my battery is only held in place by sticky underseal anyway

Any tips for mounting the battery in the boot?

Yeah get rid of that bracket for sure! , That's the Achilles heel of the battery tray, When VW painted it, the paint and sealant didn't reach behind the bracket, meaning that as soon as some water gets trapped, ITS FUCKED!

Just bin it all and welding a nice new piece in, seal it, paint it and then relocate the battery.

Best way to do that is put it in either the spare wheel well with some brackets over the top, Bolted to the floor, Or at the side of the boot. Then just run some big thick cables from the terminals to the old ring terminals that fitted to the battery.

It's what i'm doing! :-D

M

Anyone know where I can get some good quality seam sealer?

I bought tetroseal seam sealer in a red tin, its thick and black (what more could you want?), can get it from most good hobbit motor factors.

Just found this thread. I'm putting megasquirt on an ABD. Regarding your pulley. What I've done is make the pulley from 6082, then it's invisible to the sensor, and the trigger wheel screws to the outer face and is the same diameter as the pulley. Much easier to replace the belt and it protects the vanes. Also you can laser cut the trigger wheel, which allows you make mistakes in a much cheaper way. One thing to watch is the pulley screws are not on a regular pcd, which has caught me out.

Clever! To be honest I haven't got the time or skills to be making the whole pulley though

I think what I'm gonna do in the end is mount the trigger wheel behind the pulley, but make it small enough so it clears the belt tensioner.

Well after spending lots of time fixing it and spending lots of moneys on new radiator an whatnot, the fucking headgasket blew today.... currently thinking about what to do about it seeing as i dont have the money to fix it now.

Headgasket set doesn't cost alot dude,

Get it done!

Heads warped, already been skimmed once and i doubt i'll be able to straighten it out within tolerance, i cant even be arsed! I'm going back to uni on friday, I'm workin 9 to 5's every day so aint got time to even get the parts, an i gotta get the train back so i cant even take the head with me I will sort something out soon i guess!

Looked like a steam train coming home from work yesterday

Ah bad news dude Hope you get it fixed. Clean off the mayo under the rocker cover if you can. When it happened to mine that mayo rusted the underside of the cover in no time