Nice flame!

Cheers guys,

Its booked in to be tuned, but not bad considering that is probably the first really start up.

sounds amazing!!

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

Very nice Love it

Edited 10 August, 200917 yr by TomW

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

No ideas yet will know when it goes in to be tuned. Before the webbers it was putting out 69.7 bhp. Friends of mine in germany are running the same motor with webers, cam, vernier pully and simila exhausts and are getting 120-125 bhp. So they recon std head, should get me close to or just on 100 bhp. So I hope they are right!!! hehe I will post the dyno chart when I get it though.

Love it!

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

No ideas yet will know when it goes in to be tuned. Before the webbers it was putting out 69.7 bhp. Friends of mine in germany are running the same motor with webers, cam, vernier pully and simila exhausts and are getting 120-125 bhp. So they recon std head, should get me close to or just on 100 bhp. So I hope they are right!!! hehe I will post the dyno chart when I get it though.

omg that is insane, i have a 1.3 spi engine in my mk3, didnt realise this was possible, think i may have tohav a stab at this, its amazing, cant wait to see the power outcome, looks and sounds amazing well done

Love it!

Cheers, your loon looks slammed and phat!

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

No ideas yet will know when it goes in to be tuned. Before the webbers it was putting out 69.7 bhp. Friends of mine in germany are running the same motor with webers, cam, vernier pully and simila exhausts and are getting 120-125 bhp. So they recon std head, should get me close to or just on 100 bhp. So I hope they are right!!! hehe I will post the dyno chart when I get it though.

omg that is insane, i have a 1.3 spi engine in my mk3, didnt realise this was possible, think i may have tohav a stab at this, its amazing, cant wait to see the power outcome, looks and sounds amazing well done

Cheers dude, its taken a while to get it here though. and the engine is running custom exhauts/ignition coil/dizzy and racing ht leads.

My advice if you do go this route make 100% sure your carbs are correct for the engine. Otherwise you will not get it to run properly.

Its not tuned yet and yet it pulls like an animal. Just took a small drive round the block. Can't wait to see what the outcome will be.

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

No ideas yet will know when it goes in to be tuned. Before the webbers it was putting out 69.7 bhp. Friends of mine in germany are running the same motor with webers, cam, vernier pully and simila exhausts and are getting 120-125 bhp. So they recon std head, should get me close to or just on 100 bhp. So I hope they are right!!! hehe I will post the dyno chart when I get it though.

omg that is insane, i have a 1.3 spi engine in my mk3, didnt realise this was possible, think i may have tohav a stab at this, its amazing, cant wait to see the power outcome, looks and sounds amazing well done

Cheers dude, its taken a while to get it here though. and the engine is running custom exhauts/ignition coil/dizzy and racing ht leads.

My advice if you do go this route make 100% sure your carbs are correct for the engine. Otherwise you will not get it to run properly.

Its not tuned yet and yet it pulls like an animal. Just took a small drive round the block. Can't wait to see what the outcome will be.

i thinki have to do it tbf, if you could pm with details that would be amazing,i dont expect u to do it straight away but any help would be amazing. isnt my block the same as urs?? if so i would need the same sort of carb setup as yourself, bet u can't wait, so does it feel like a mahooosive difference to standard? i thinkthis is amazing, the car looks in amazing condition as i know mk2 loons see to be getting thin on the ground

omgthis is quallity, so this is a standard spi apart form just the webbers and the stainless exhaust system, obvs all the stuff that is connected to the webbers and you are expecting 100bhp, wow thts insane, any ideas of the exact power yet?

No ideas yet will know when it goes in to be tuned. Before the webbers it was putting out 69.7 bhp. Friends of mine in germany are running the same motor with webers, cam, vernier pully and simila exhausts and are getting 120-125 bhp. So they recon std head, should get me close to or just on 100 bhp. So I hope they are right!!! hehe I will post the dyno chart when I get it though.

omg that is insane, i have a 1.3 spi engine in my mk3, didnt realise this was possible, think i may have tohav a stab at this, its amazing, cant wait to see the power outcome, looks and sounds amazing well done

Cheers dude, its taken a while to get it here though. and the engine is running custom exhauts/ignition coil/dizzy and racing ht leads.

My advice if you do go this route make 100% sure your carbs are correct for the engine. Otherwise you will not get it to run properly.

Its not tuned yet and yet it pulls like an animal. Just took a small drive round the block. Can't wait to see what the outcome will be.

i thinki have to do it tbf, if you could pm with details that would be amazing,i dont expect u to do it straight away but any help would be amazing. isnt my block the same as urs?? if so i would need the same sort of carb setup as yourself, bet u can't wait, so does it feel like a mahooosive difference to standard? i thinkthis is amazing, the car looks in amazing condition as i know mk2 loons see to be getting thin on the ground

Hey there,

I actualy dont have the details on the carbs, I was looking for it all over. I bought them new though, and specified the engine. The guys at euro carb then choked and jetted them accordingly. I do know that the idle jets are to big, but all that will be sorted when it goes in for its tune up. The car has loads more torque than before, and just keeps pulling.

Cheers

Love it all, except for the wheels, not too keen on them for some reason. Loving the engine though.

Did you have any clearance issues with the Brake master cyclinder? (Please say no)..

Did you have any clearance issues with the Brake master cyclinder? (Please say no)..

Ohhhhhh yes I did! its an absolute pig! To be honest, if I did it again, I would remove the head to fit the carbs. Then install the head and carbs without the rams. Trust me this sounds extreme, but take it from me you will save yourself a lot of time doing it this way. Then you will have to clearance one of the rams, unless you fancy changing your brake setup, which I would not recomend. I looked at doing this but it would have required a whole new rally style pedal box with the maters cylinders attached directly to the pedal box. These just to purchase are over 500 GBP. To be honest this setup has cost me way in excess of 1500 GBP already. Its not just a bolt on job unfortunatly. The other alternative is to buy a german car, as the master cylinder is on the other side, then you have no clearance issues!

Love it all, except for the wheels, not too keen on them for some reason. Loving the engine though.

Cheers, those are my winter wheels as the summer ones are a surprise. They still need to be refurbed though. Once thats done it will have a set of really trick one off 14x7's.

Did you have any clearance issues with the Brake master cyclinder? (Please say no)..

Ohhhhhh yes I did! its an absolute pig! To be honest, if I did it again, I would remove the head to fit the carbs. Then install the head and carbs without the rams. Trust me this sounds extreme, but take it from me you will save yourself a lot of time doing it this way. Then you will have to clearance one of the rams, unless you fancy changing your brake setup, which I would not recomend. I looked at doing this but it would have required a whole new rally style pedal box with the maters cylinders attached directly to the pedal box. These just to purchase are over 500 GBP. To be honest this setup has cost me way in excess of 1500 GBP already. Its not just a bolt on job unfortunatly. The other alternative is to buy a german car, as the master cylinder is on the other side, then you have no clearance issues!

We'd already come to the conclusion that bolting the head on with inlet and carbs fitted was going to be the easiest option. Just for the past two years or so iv been wondering whether my carbs are going to hit the M/C. I bought a 90 degree banjo and bolt for the M/C and was going to replace the solid lines throughout with stainless braided flexy lines. This would buy me a few extra mill by the trumpet, but cost a fooking lot and is a right pain making up the lines with the couplings. Cheers for the info, car looks the business

Edited 11 August, 200917 yr by randombadger69

Did you have any clearance issues with the Brake master cyclinder? (Please say no)..

Ohhhhhh yes I did! its an absolute pig! To be honest, if I did it again, I would remove the head to fit the carbs. Then install the head and carbs without the rams. Trust me this sounds extreme, but take it from me you will save yourself a lot of time doing it this way. Then you will have to clearance one of the rams, unless you fancy changing your brake setup, which I would not recomend. I looked at doing this but it would have required a whole new rally style pedal box with the maters cylinders attached directly to the pedal box. These just to purchase are over 500 GBP. To be honest this setup has cost me way in excess of 1500 GBP already. Its not just a bolt on job unfortunatly. The other alternative is to buy a german car, as the master cylinder is on the other side, then you have no clearance issues!

We'd already come to the conclusion that bolting the head on with inlet and carbs fitted was going to be the easiest option. Just for the past two years or so iv been wondering whether my carbs are going to hit the M/C. I bought a 90 degree banjo and bolt for the M/C and was going to replace the solid lines throughout with stainless braided flexy lines. This would buy me a few extra mill by the trumpet, but cost a fooking lot and is a right pain making up the lines with the couplings. Cheers for the info, car looks the business

I wish I had been able to find something like that, can you pm me the details on that, as I might decide to fit that system to my car. I had to cut 90 deg out of the ram tube so that it would clear the mc body and brake line. Its only one line thats causes the issue however due to its location you have about 12mm clearance from the actual carb body to the brake line.

Thanks for the props, its been two years in the making, so I can't wait to get in it and take it for a proper long burn.

what tyres are you running on the G60's? are they spaced at all and where did you get your exhaust?

i have a loon with an AFH in and i am trying to find an exhaust system.

looks really tidy and clean. awesome.

I wish I had been able to find something like that, can you pm me the details on that, as I might decide to fit that system to my car. I had to cut 90 deg out of the ram tube so that it would clear the mc body and brake line. Its only one line thats causes the issue however due to its location you have about 12mm clearance from the actual carb body to the brake line.

Thanks for the props, its been two years in the making, so I can't wait to get in it and take it for a proper long burn.

The fitments are 10 x 1.00mm, got everything through www.camauto.com, top site everythings online and they send you free haribo :-D

It's still a 12mm stack on the banjo and bolt though..

ask i asked on the previous page, clearance is super tight, looks like you had the same problem as me. except the body of the 40's would touch the master cylinder.

you can incline the carbs up until around a 15degree angle, so if you were serious about sorting the problem then having the manifold milled to accomodate this angle is the only option really. that and tweaks to the engine mounts to get it shifted across 5mm or so.

its all a bit of a compromise reallly, as ideally you want the longest trumpets possible, the shorter the runners, the higher up the rev range peak power will be, this is a pain in the arse for town driving, having to rev the tits off the car to stop it stall isnt ideal, been there done that.

to reach the 120hp target you'll need a pretty wild camshaft and to sacrifice the low down driveability. say the engine makes 80lbft at the top of the rev range it'll need to be doing 7900rpm to make the 120hp. not ideal in a road car. the car i had made 97bhp with headwork, a newman cam and a 4branch. it was good above 4k, but lacked a little below that.

overall it didnt feel alot faster than my other car with a 1391cc bottom end, some light headwork, standard exhaust and a twin choke carb.

in the end i kept the 1.4 for the low down torque which made it alot easier to drive.

let us know how you get on fella, certainly looks the part

ask i asked on the previous page, clearance is super tight, looks like you had the same problem as me. except the body of the 40's would touch the master cylinder.

you can incline the carbs up until around a 15degree angle, so if you were serious about sorting the problem then having the manifold milled to accomodate this angle is the only option really. that and tweaks to the engine mounts to get it shifted across 5mm or so.

its all a bit of a compromise reallly, as ideally you want the longest trumpets possible, the shorter the runners, the higher up the rev range peak power will be, this is a pain in the arse for town driving, having to rev the tits off the car to stop it stall isnt ideal, been there done that.

to reach the 120hp target you'll need a pretty wild camshaft and to sacrifice the low down driveability. say the engine makes 80lbft at the top of the rev range it'll need to be doing 7900rpm to make the 120hp. not ideal in a road car. the car i had made 97bhp with headwork, a newman cam and a 4branch. it was good above 4k, but lacked a little below that.

overall it didnt feel alot faster than my other car with a 1391cc bottom end, some light headwork, standard exhaust and a twin choke carb.

in the end i kept the 1.4 for the low down torque which made it alot easier to drive.

let us know how you get on fella, certainly looks the part

What duration was the camshaft you were running? Iv gone for a 272 deg, fully ported head, inlet and matched 4 branch.

It'll never be as quick as my G40's, but it's the earsex I'm doing it for

what tyres are you running on the G60's? are they spaced at all and where did you get your exhaust?

i have a loon with an AFH in and i am trying to find an exhaust system.

looks really tidy and clean. awesome.

Thanks, THe tyres are michelin pilots, the exhaust manifold and pipework is from Germany. You can find plenty of parts for these on German ebay.

ask i asked on the previous page, clearance is super tight, looks like you had the same problem as me. except the body of the 40's would touch the master cylinder.

you can incline the carbs up until around a 15degree angle, so if you were serious about sorting the problem then having the manifold milled to accomodate this angle is the only option really. that and tweaks to the engine mounts to get it shifted across 5mm or so.

its all a bit of a compromise reallly, as ideally you want the longest trumpets possible, the shorter the runners, the higher up the rev range peak power will be, this is a pain in the arse for town driving, having to rev the tits off the car to stop it stall isnt ideal, been there done that.

to reach the 120hp target you'll need a pretty wild camshaft and to sacrifice the low down driveability. say the engine makes 80lbft at the top of the rev range it'll need to be doing 7900rpm to make the 120hp. not ideal in a road car. the car i had made 97bhp with headwork, a newman cam and a 4branch. it was good above 4k, but lacked a little below that.

overall it didnt feel alot faster than my other car with a 1391cc bottom end, some light headwork, standard exhaust and a twin choke carb.

in the end i kept the 1.4 for the low down torque which made it alot easier to drive.

let us know how you get on fella, certainly looks the part

What duration was the camshaft you were running? Iv gone for a 272 deg, fully ported head, inlet and matched 4 branch.

It'll never be as quick as my G40's, but it's the earsex I'm doing it for

With the hydro head 272 is about the maximum you can go without clearancing the head. I don't think the banjo will work as the clearance issue is on the mc casting itself, as well as the brake line coming out. I did look into tilting the carbs but this was advised against. So far even though the car has not been tunned jets wise, its feeling way stronger than it was. Before the carbs it was 69.7 bhp and 81 lb-ft. So I cant wait to see what its like after.

Anyway I will post the sheet when I get it.

nice loon lad :)

nice loon lad :)

Many thanks.

O I also forgot to add, if you don't get your dizzy rebuilt to work with the 40's then you are throwing away horse power. THe std vacume advance unit does not have enough advance in it to cope properly with the timing requirements of the 40's. That is why you will see mine is not a standerd unit.