I decided to write a How-to article for anyone thinking of changing their brake pads.

You will need the following:

* New brake pads

* 6mm Allen key

* G-Clamp or large pliers

* Copper grease

* Optional: Brake cleaner, Slider grease

Warning: If you are not comfortable working on your brakes, you should leave the job to a qualified professional. Remember - it's not just your safety, it's that of other road users at risk!

Neither myself nor the publishers of this site will be liable for anything that may happen as a result of following this guide. Do so at your own risk. Working on your brakes is dangerous and, if you make a hash of it, you may crash your car, die, kill someone, hit a truck full of newborn kittens causing it to explode, or all four. Do not follow this guide unless you understand.

1. Jack the car up, support on axle stands and remove the wheel.

2. Remove the bolts securing the calliper to the carrier. For this you will need a 6mm Hex key like the one shown below.

Ensure the Hex key is securely located in the bolt before turning, as it is very easy to round these bolts off.

The following image shows the location of the bolts - note that the hex key is already located in the upper bolt.

3. Once you have removed the bolts, clean them using brake cleaner. You will later apply some copper grease to the bolts before reinstalling them.

4. Use a screwdriver to lever the calliper away from the hub, then remove it completely.

Place it on top of the rotor. Do not allow the rubber brake line to support the weight of the calliper, as this will damage it.

5. Remove both of the old pads from the calliper. On this car, they simply 'pop' out - they are held in place by the clips on the back of the pad.

6. Remove the cap from the master cylinder to prevent an airlock, and then carefully retract the piston back into the calliper. This will ensure there is enough space to install the replacement pads.

In the above image I am using a G-clamp, however some people have suggested that you use a pair of large pliers and a block of wood instead as you run less chance of damaging the piston. I've always had great success with the G-clamp method, but it's up to you!

7. Check the operation of the calliper sliders by sliding them between finger and thumb.

They should move freely - if they do not, take them out, wirebrush them to remove any corrosion and then reinstall, being sure to lubricate them with a suitable grease.

I use Black Lithium C.V grease as it is rated for high temperatures and long life - don't use normal grease as it will melt and may end up on your brakes!

8. At this stage, you may wish to apply some copper grease to the *back* of the pads (this can help prevent brake squeal).

Then install the new pads into the calliper in the same manner as you removed the old ones. Install the inside pad first.

9. Apply a small amount of copper grease to each calliper bolt to prevent them from seizing. Reinstall the calliper onto the carrier and tighten both bolts to the correct torque.

10. Repeat the process for the other side of the car, then pump the brake pedal until it regains its firmness.

Job done! Remember to follow ther bedding in procedure for the pads.

Test your brakes before driving the car on the road. Remember that the first few times you hit the pedal, you may have virtually no braking performance!

Edited 8 September, 200917 yr by TheBassJunky

Not a moment too soon! Good guide!

yea really good guide will help alot of pepole with this m8 :-)

Cheers! By the way, if anyone was wondering, those ARE nearly new pads I took off - they were cheap replicas and offered almost nothing in the way of stopping power.

The replacements were VW OEM pads, much better :)

Hope someone finds this useful, and if anyone has any comments or suggestions let me know.

Edited 8 September, 200917 yr by TheBassJunky

Ensure the Hex key is securely located in the bolt before turning, as it is very easy to round these bolts off.

x2.

Had this happen to me today. one of the bottom bolts was nearly round, I thought I had enough to get it out, but it was also siezed up(previous mechanic was oblivious to copper grease it seems) so one quick tug and to hell it went. Got a completely different bolt now, as a temp.

Good guide, defo needs pinning..

I've found the main problem with the allen key bolts is people using imperial allen keys which which spin if the bolt is tight and round it off....

FYI you can buy replacement calliper bolts direct from VW for a few pounds for the full set. Just phone your local dealers and ask for their parts department :)

yeah, that's what I plan to do next, and maybe OE pads. Cheapo pads, dunno. So, did you feel a lot of difference between OE parts and cheapo parts?

Edited 8 September, 200917 yr by MehMan

Personally, I'd rate Green Stuff pads. Even if you've not upped the performance. For a little extra money it means better braking from cold, better braking when warm and much less brake dust. I intend to purchase some the next time I need new pads.

Big difference with the OE pads; there is a lot more pedal feel and braking is more progressive.

They're still bedding in at the moment.

They're expensive at 34 quid, but you can't put a price on your brakes! The pads say 'Made in Italy' so I'm not sure who makes them, Ferrodo perhaps?