Hi Guys/Girls,

Been a busy boy this weekend converting my daily but come across a couple of hitches, can anyone shed some light?

wasnt too bad in the end. engine is in, everythings plumbed up and driveshafts, exhaust etc are all connected...

engine cranks over but not getting any fuel to the fuel pump, it was connected to the afh's original oil pressure switch but it wasnt turning on.

Anyway I've got a few wiring questions regarding oil pressure sender, coolant wiring and the fuel pump, and if anyone could help id be proper grateful

Oil pressure & Fuel Pump Questions

Original HK engines oil pressure switches - anyone know which is high and low? I'm not sure if i need to use the afh oil pressure switch and bridge the yellow and blue plugs from my engine loom into it, or to just use one of the oil pressure switches off the old engine

oil pressure sender on new engine - bottom left, seen replaced here with the black sender from the mk2s engine

the fuel pump states it can take my live feed off the oil pressure switch, but would i be better connecting it off a switched live with an inline fuse?

if so, can i use the redundant hedgehog heater wiring

Coolant Questions

coolant wiring on old engine

coolant sensor on the new engine - this is a 4 pin plug layed out in a 2x2 matrix.

I'm a bit confused as to whether i need to keep the sender with the two wires on it - as otherwise these are redundant in my loom. is that the ran temp switch? if so and i need to keep it, which coolant pipe would it be placed in line with, or should i get a mk3 rad which i think has those temp senders actually in the rad itself

Last, what have people done for throttle cables? anyone been able to modify an oem cable or it is easy enough to modify the motorbike cable. I suppose i could do what i did on the golf when it had twin webers, got an attachement for the pedal which allowed me to use a cable with a solderless nipple on the end, and another on the linkage- carb side and job was a good un!

Some pics of the fitted engine

Big thanks to antoni and his mate for helping me get the afh engine out of my living room into the garden, and helping to get it in (although i had to take it out after you guys left to grind away at the arb mount to clear the alternator belt

big thanks to rick (humer) for the engine crane, couldnt have do it without this!

big thanks for karlface for the hand on sunday and charface & karl for painting my liviing room.

legends!

Edited 15 November, 200916 yr by grungeisdead

I stuck with the later 4-pin thermo plug,as i was doing some splicing anyway ('88 loom in '85 shell) and wanted to update plugs etc where i could. This means i had the '88s four-wires (for the two 2-pin plugs on the '88).

I cant remember much about the HK's thermo housing or wiring,i remember it being metal (so no earth lead) but thats it.

I used the original throttle cable,but swapped the rubber bit at the pedal end for a plastic one i fabricated - you can never have too much throttle response. I cut the ball off the other end with wire cutters,but left enough of the crimped part on to hold securely yet fit in the pulley. I made the bracket out of (by chopping up) the bracket that previously held the swirl pot to the carb on the '88.

Ime confused as hell about this oil pressure bobbins too, my rev counter clocks beep constantly, i have tired both blue and yellow bridged and connected then each one connected and it still flashes and beeps

might have to bring mine around ? might be easier

Ant

Ime confused as hell about this oil pressure bobbins too, my rev counter clocks beep constantly, i have tired both blue and yellow bridged and connected then each one connected and it still flashes and beeps

might have to bring mine around ? might be easier

Ant

You might be able to use some late mk3 polo clocks.

Oil buzzer goes off when you fit early mk3 clocks in a later mk3.

cheers guys, thanks for that, I've just realised there was 4 wires plugged into the hks temp sender unit, so that means

i need to try and find a pin out diagram for this sender on the afh engine

and then i can get 4 little spade connectors and connect these 4 wires that were previously connected to the HKs temp sender unit.

that still leaves me with a rouge wire that should be connected to something on the engine to tell the clocks what temperature it is

hmmm ,ill have to do some research into the pressure switch. hmm looks like ill be working from home this week

Edited 8 November, 200916 yr by grungeisdead

ps will the hedgehog heater wire (from the hks heated element on the inlet manifold) provide me with a switched ignition for la fuel pump.

dankeshun =]

the pin out for the afh temp sender is

1. normally goes to pin 42 on the ecu

2. goes to temp guage in dashpod

3 + 4. earth

basically it is two completely independant sensors inside the same unit

Cheers mate, it that

1 - 2

3 - 4 if you look at it as if the engine is facing you

I'll see if my pocket mechanic book on the polo will have info of my engines wiring loom.

Just been out tonight, fitting the throttle cable and trying to find a switched ignition live for the pump but failing however noticed something ominious.

Had the ignition switched on one click, and the postive wire on the coil (top left black/white) got stupidly hot.

the wiring loom for the electronic ignition is as was for the previous engine and is grounded off the battery.

there is a fresh earth strap from the coils mounting for the front gearbox mount and another engine earth from the front engine mount to the chassis of the body.

really wierd how the wire is heating up!

anyone got any suggestions, i have a spare coil, tci module, dizzy and electonic ignition loom in the house.

also if i wire up a fuel pump relay, can i take my switched live ignition feed off the coil

Hehe - wonderred where I left the Pocket Mechanic book :p

Yeah, it details the different pressure senders.... page 23?

Bascially, they just make the circuit between the terminal and earth when something's wrong. HK's have two circuits, one buzzes, one flashes the light. The buzz circuit is only live with the engine running (so it doesn't buzz before you turn the engine on.... think there's a delay on it too.

haha its assimilated itself as a permenant resident in the car since we went and collected it haha!

well i changed the coil and the wire is still heating up when the ignition is on switched on one click

also pikeyed the throttle cable, push bike cable and a cable tie on the throttle pedal, but its pulling the carbs too much due to a steep angle so either needs some sort of throttle linkage butchery and also i need to secure the carbs to the manifold so the strain of the throttle cable isnt pulling on the carbs

just going to find a relay in my box of joy to make up a little fuel pump loom, but I'm stuck now until i find out what the beef is with my coils wires heating up.

heg mentioned replacing the spark plugs for those without a resistor as its kinder to the coil, but that would be the cause of my issue if the wire is getting hot without even cranking...

Right well a couple of jobs off the list.

The coil was previously wired up like this (using electronic ignition on a mk2 coupe)

back left is the red/black wire for tacho

back right is black wire and white wire

front left and front right (green wire & black wire) go to the ignition module.

After sticking the AFH engine, the white wire in the back right corner was heating up excessively to the point where it would most likely catch fire, but after looking at some pictures of other mk2 coils wired up, no-one seems to have the extra white wire connected, just a single black on the back right. So for the time being, i've cut the wire thus solving that problem (by ignoring it)

Wired the fuel pump off one of the coil's positive connections, so it comes on when the engine in cranking or running, fuel is coming through into the filter and getting to the carbs.

that brings me to my next problem, I've got a fuel leak! It stems from the fuel pipes connected from the carbs to the first tee-piece. so unfortunatly it means the carbs have to come off again to sort that one out.

But anyway fuel leak aside, i thought might as well see if it will turn over, now that we have some fuel, but it was just cranking over, without even an inkling of a splutter of life, which makes me think there is no spark.

unfortunatly i dont have a friend here today as my housemate is out so i cant get them to check if there is a spark coming from the king lead (to rule out coil) or spark from dizzy (to rule out dizzy).

i did attempt it just by laying the king lead on the block and cranking over the engine but couldnt really see anything and it looks rather difficult to check if I'm getting a spark via the AFH leads as they have miles of shielding over them grrr

i just need to muster up the effort now to whip off the carbs again and sort out the fuel leak. it just annoys me that my inlet manifold isnt stepped in at ports 1 and 4 to match up with the cbr carbs meaning its a pain to get the carbs on and on securely

think i may have to look at a temporary shed to get me to work till i sort this out as I'm not sure how many days i can blag working from home haha

I've sourced my fuel leak,

all my hoses throughout are 8mm inner diameter, so i used 8mm t-pieces. however the 8mm inner diameter hoses wouldnt fit over the inlets of the fuel rails for the carbs. i used the bike fuel hoses from the fuel rails which i hoped were 9mm and could be nipped up over the 8mm t-piece.

i think they are ten mm which means I'm going to need a t-piece that has 2 10mm fittings and 1 8mm fitting.

grr

Hassle it is,i used T-peices from a MK3 Golf cooling system,i dont know the ID of the pipe but it fits nicely over them whilst stretching quite easily over the carb T-pieces. Used the spring clips from them,too.

One of the carb T-pieces had a hairline fracture in it,took ages to work out where the leak was coming from.

longer carb hoses, Its my plan anyway. longer the hose the lesser extent of angle so should be easier to fit and work with

Ant

aye man i used that picture for reference,

nice one for that!

Well I've ordered some 10mm hose, some spring clip fasteners and a 10mm-8mm-10mm T-piece reducer so job will be a good un when they arrive.

Tomorrow evening I need to investigate my lack of spark!

What hoses did you plump for in the end, I've been looking at a few different suppliers and was bamboozled by the mass variety of different hoses that are out there!

Ill have the carbs off tomorrow so ill be able to measure up the diameter of the ports on the inlet mani and carbs to work out if i can get silicon carbs with reducers rather than expecting the clamp to tighten the silicon hose around the carb outlet

The ones on the carbs came with them - they're moulded with the bend in. NO pressure,so they're not braided. The rest of the pipe is identical but for having VW and Germany printed on it - its the coolant breather hose for the MK3 Golf.

wooohoo we have a spark!

wired the coil off the switched ignition live from the ignition barrel and finally sparky meets george.

my reducing t-piece arrived and although my spring clamps dont turn up till tomorrow, i was still eager to hear her fire up.

sorted out a few vac leaks and shes alive. didnt want to run her for too long though as the thermo plug isnt wired in yet.

weber throttle cable and pedal block arrive tomorrow so going to do some fiddling to get that fitted, and i need to get hold of another mk3 alternator and mk4 pulley. a key-way for the woodruff key is definatly needed, as its just spinning on the shaft and rattling a bit.

its also ridiculously tight between the decat downpipe and the anti-roll bar, and i need a sleeve welded into from the downpipes flexi to the rest of the system.

but happy days shes alive.

can someone please take a pic of the wires that goes into their thermo plug, if i know the right colour wires i can crimp the ones from my existing loom in place.

cheers all for zee help!

I have a late loom and the splicing is taped up under sheathing so i cant help with the picture,but i just tested them for earth/live and then swapped them around until the temperature gauge worked.

I had to hammer the shielding on the stock AFH downpipe to clear the ARB and that's with it mounted 15mm further forward on solid ally castor-correction mounts!

And i used the standard 6n 70a alternator. Didnt take long to sort the mounts out.

yo man, glad you got her running! sorry I can't be of any help just wanted to post to say good work keep it up :)

safe as fook motherlicker, did you sell the beigehaller in the end?

another mk3 alternator? you killed mine too you chump?

I expect to see it blasting around tomorrow afternoon

Ant

oh wait haha i have too many alternators! i forgot you gave me one i thought it was a mk1 golf one =P

gonna go have a nosey now.

and i hope the weber throttle cable turns up tomo brap brap i do wanna get it sorted cos then i can brap over to derby for a night out

safe ant you were right,

properly modded alternatay shall be fitted tomo, my housemate gave me a hand sorting this one, schaweet.

i proper hope the throttle cable comes tomo or I'm gonna kick some fuckin fastroadcars ass

edit:- I'm an idiot id forgotten to pay for them doh! dolla sent but wont be here till monday now, gheyyyyyyyyYYY!

Edited 13 November, 200916 yr by grungeisdead

bodge it, get a throttle cable from a old golf or something where the linkage sits to the passenger side of engine as they are longer and should work

Ant