I hate to bother, but would this be a straight foward swap for my 1.3L Golf MK2? Seems easy enough!

Mines carburetted, so all all stuff should be easy enough. Got the dizzy and what not.

Will the valver bolt to the stock 4 speed?

Fitting Bike Carbs in a mk3

So anyway. To the meat!

What do I need?

1 x Mk1/2/3 Polo

ENGINE

1 x 1.4 16v (AFH Engine Code) out of a Mk4 Polo 16v “Valver”

Engine Mounting Plate

GEARBOX, ALTERNATOR + STARTER

1 x Mk2/3 Polo Alternator

1 x Mk4 Polo Alternator Pulley

1 x Mk2/3 Polo 5-Speed Gearbox

1 x Late Mk3 Polo Starter Motor + Mk3 Flywheel

OR

1 x Mk4 Polo Starter + Mk4 Flywheel

FUELLING

Set of Bike Carbs – 600cc+

Inlet Manifold made for the above – Group Buy HERE

Facet Solid State Pump

2 T-Piece's

Fuel Hose

Spring Hose Clamps

IGNITION

Mk2 Polo Distributer

Mk2 Polo Ingition Amp

Mk2 Polo Ingition Loom

Mk2 Polo Coil

AFH Leads

SUSPENSION

G-Ladersiete Blocks

EXHAUST

AFH or Polo/Lupi GTI Standard Manifold and downpipe

OR

Stainless Steel 4-Branch

+

Welder to join the two

Just wondering if this is all suitable for POLO MK2F , And what you would reccomend buying..I have a 1.4 16V LUMP AFH ( POLO ENGINE ) 2000 REG...

Just wondering if this is all suitable for POLO MK2F , And what you would reccomend buying..I have a 1.4 16V LUMP AFH ( POLO ENGINE ) 2000 REG...

On this forum a Mk2F is the same thing as a mk3

Recommend buying what?

I hate to bother, but would this be a straight foward swap for my 1.3L Golf MK2? Seems easy enough!

Mines carburetted, so all all stuff should be easy enough. Got the dizzy and what not.

Will the valver bolt to the stock 4 speed?

Yeah bolts into a mk2 golf nicely and well bolt straight to the gearbox, although a 5 speed box would be better suited

Great, good to know.... Now i just need to find one!

Where could I get the stretch bolts for tge mk3 flywheel?

VW

G40 n afh clutches are the same 200mm items. Only uprated ones are organic lined or paddle clutches.

So why do you guys run a vacuum dizzy?

Right, I'm not to clued up on this old ignition and coil system, I have the loom amp and coil but the plug that goes onto the coil has the red and black wire cut? And theres a seperate black wire.. The picture on page 1 has the red and black wire cut too.. Anyone?

That black wire just goes to earth dude. put a pic up and i can tell you where they all go. the vac advance is because you no longer have the ecu changing the curve, I've ditched mine as it was a bit shagged and it causes more hassles than it solves

Also, on the gearbox debate, I've just used all afh stuff, just had to grind off an old bolt hole to get reverse and it works a treat

Just got to solve the oil issue out and ill be on the road

red/black wire is for rev counter and goes to coil NEGATIVE, black wire from ecu loom goes to coil POSITIVE, green wire goes to coil negative.

the black/white wire comes from the cars loom and goes to the coil POSITIVE terminal.

if you remove the vac advance, you should fix the advance arm in the dizzy to full advance, you can do this with a piece of wire.

there is one large black wire that comes from the amp, its actually a brown wire thats sheethed and that goes to the battery NEGATIVE

Edited 22 August, 201114 yr by grungeisdead

is there any difference in this conversion between a mk2 and mk3? can you run a mk2 fuel tank with just a facet pump?

you can, thats what I ran, facet pump mounted on the wing, although ideally they should be mounted close to the tank as possible (mount it in the same location as the mk3, by the rear chassis leg)

you can, thats what I ran, facet pump mounted on the wing, although ideally they should be mounted close to the tank as possible (mount it in the same location as the mk3, by the rear chassis leg)

wicked. so is the fuel tank the only difference in the conversion? also is there any way of not having to buy the arb blocks and getting it to clear the exhaust? would rather get them later on as there expensive

not really mate, it wont clear the ARB unless you get a custom downpipe or modify the existing. they are expensive but if the car is lowered, you should be fitting these as a first port of call to correct the geometry of the car, as it goes to cock when lowered.

theres a couple of differences, mainly how you decide to wire up the coil (using your own relay and circuit from the ignition/switch and battery, or if you use the existing coil) how you wire up the fuel pump (you can mount on the mk3, the facet pump in place of the high pressure pump, utilising the mk3s fuel pump relay and wiring)

there is no intank pump on the mk2, you can fit one from a mk3, if you do, then you need to connect the inlet/outlet together on the bottom of the mk2 tank

not really mate, it wont clear the ARB unless you get a custom downpipe or modify the existing. they are expensive but if the car is lowered, you should be fitting these as a first port of call to correct the geometry of the car, as it goes to cock when lowered.

theres a couple of differences, mainly how you decide to wire up the coil (using your own relay and circuit from the ignition/switch and battery, or if you use the existing coil) how you wire up the fuel pump (you can mount on the mk3, the facet pump in place of the high pressure pump, utilising the mk3s fuel pump relay and wiring)

there is no intank pump on the mk2, you can fit one from a mk3, if you do, then you need to connect the inlet/outlet together on the bottom of the mk2 tank

yeah, mines a mk2 thats why its a lil confusing as I'm guessing this thread is mainly aimed at mk3's haha. I'm getting an engine/box/loom/exhaust for 200 off a friend, how much extra would you say it would cost to get it running? obviously injection is probably pretty complicated so would probably be on carbs

cheers for your help by the way

the thread was initially done on my mk2 coupe, so the information in the first thread is relevant to a mk2, but the differences from a mk1-3 are so minor, its relevant to all.

costs are variable, depending on what you buy new/2nd hand and how much you can fab yourself. aarons mk2 build thread has a write up of his totted up costs and it was circa 800.

i got alot of my parts 2nd hand, but i often buy and sell parts so its hard to put a definate figure on it, but it was definatly sub 500, but escalated past that, as I've been thru my fair share of standard AFH's and hybrids

ok mate cheers, just deciding wether its worth it or not as i have a normal 1.3 8v atm and its just as quick as a valver upto about 60ish so not doing too bad. guess i could sell that after though and make some money back. hmmm decisions...

with the oil pressure sensor, can anbody tell me the colour or show me a picture of the wire coming from the mk3, cos atm i have the sensor in the head but I'm not sure what wire to connect to it, (next project defenatly labeling or taking pictures BEFORE and AFTER) lol

cheers

edit

another thing, is ther is a plug in the back of the afh block... what is it?! lol

Edited 22 August, 201114 yr by LewiisDub

so does the mk2 5 speed release bearing ect work with the mk4 clutch? anyone have a pic of what bit of the gearbox i need to grind down?

also I'm only using the black pressure sender for now untill i find a t piece. is the other one gonna be buzzing from lack of yellow one?

last question, is that part of the wiring loom which goes to coil on the 1st page the one already in a mk2? if it is then i wont need to change it right?

cheers

So Iv got mine running last night!

BUT about 20seconds after it being running the oil light and buzzer comes on?!

Iv only got the sender in the side of the head plugged in, think it might be to do with plug on the back on the block ?

What's the story boys?

Is there much difference in the conversion when you use a 1.6 16v instead of a 1.4 16v?

So Iv got mine running last night!

BUT about 20seconds after it being running the oil light and buzzer comes on?!

Iv only got the sender in the side of the head plugged in, think it might be to do with plug on the back on the block ?

What's the story boys?

on a normal 1.3 ect theres 2 senders, on the afh u can only use 1 unless u have the t piece, so i just earthed the other one to stop the buzzing.

not really mate, it wont clear the ARB unless you get a custom downpipe or modify the existing. they are expensive but if the car is lowered, you should be fitting these as a first port of call to correct the geometry of the car, as it goes to cock when lowered.

theres a couple of differences, mainly how you decide to wire up the coil (using your own relay and circuit from the ignition/switch and battery, or if you use the existing coil) how you wire up the fuel pump (you can mount on the mk3, the facet pump in place of the high pressure pump, utilising the mk3s fuel pump relay and wiring)

there is no intank pump on the mk2, you can fit one from a mk3, if you do, then you need to connect the inlet/outlet together on the bottom of the mk2 tank

Saf what is it with you bumming these arb blocks?

Mk3 without blocks the standard down pipe sat on the arb and caused no issues in a year of driving

Mk2 with arb blocks the standard down pipe sits on the arb and wo far has caused no issues in a couple of months of driving

Yes they make a difference to your geometry if your car is lowered enough to justify them (at 40mm down they made my wheels sit too far forward), but if some one is buying them with the sole intention of getting their down pipe to clear the arb they may be slightly peeved when they find it still touches after spending all that money

Edited 13 September, 201114 yr by Mclovin

Anyone got any pictures of a MK3 with 1.4 16V Conversion..