I've not ran the standard AFH Mani's, ran a lupo GTI 4 branch with a modified downpipe and that sat on my anti-roll bar, it was bearable but would vibrate the car to buggery! I've now got a custom 4 branch designed to clear both a G40 and G60 charger, as well as the anti-roll bar so I'm a happy bunny!

most deuches on here are lowered more than 40mm and complain about gash handling, but dont seem to understand what they are doing to thier geometry. yes the car will still drive, but will it drive to the best of the polos ability albeit not very good to start off with!

plus give a fuck if someones peeved theyve had to spend a bit of money on something to find out they didnt need it, its not like we get any thanks for helping people by writing these FAQ's so do I care if someones had to spunk out 50 quid? nope, not in the slightest. they can suck the hairest part of my chocolate salty balls!

I've not ran the standard AFH Mani's, ran a lupo GTI 4 branch with a modified downpipe and that sat on my anti-roll bar, it was bearable but would vibrate the car to buggery! I've now got a custom 4 branch designed to clear both a G40 and G60 charger, as well as the anti-roll bar so I'm a happy bunny!

most deuches on here are lowered more than 40mm and complain about gash handling, but dont seem to understand what they are doing to thier geometry. yes the car will still drive, but will it drive to the best of the polos ability albeit not very good to start off with!

plus give a fuck if someones peeved theyve had to spend a bit of money on something to find out they didnt need it, its not like we get any thanks for helping people by writing these FAQ's so do I care if someones had to spunk out 50 quid? nope, not in the slightest. they can suck the hairest part of my chocolate salty balls!

thanks for writing this faq.

haha, in all seriousness without this thread i wouldnt of even attempted the conversion.

arb blocks are something i may buy in the near future, its on the list, but as I've never been in one with them i dont know how much deffierence they make

do you have to use an AFH or will any 6n 16v engine do the trick? What are the differences?

the afh is the only 6n 16v engine thats the code for it

Does this thread also apply to doing the conversion with a 1.6 16v instead of the 1.4?

i heard somewhere about something to do with the clutch release bearing? is there an issue with using the mk2 release bearing with the mk4 clutch + flywheel?

Also wondering if a 1.6 is the same. I've heard you can put a 1.4 head on there for better performance?

Hi Guys - My internet connection is really bad at the moment, so trawling through these posts again to find the answer could be very painfully slow for me and I'm struggling with the search function too.

- Its just a couple of quick questions regarding the engine mount I have:

Am I correct in think that NO alterations need to be made to the original mount that bolts to the engine...and only a 'sandwich' plate needs to be fabricated for the third mounting hole?...When this plate is fitted and pushes the mount further out, does it effect the fitment of the engine into the bay...how well do all the other mounts align up?

Thanks in advance.

Hi Guys - My internet connection is really bad at the moment, so trawling through these posts again to find the answer could be very painfully slow for me and I'm struggling with the search function too.

- Its just a couple of quick questions regarding the engine mount I have:

Am I correct in think that NO alterations need to be made to the original mount that bolts to the engine...and only a 'sandwich' plate needs to be fabricated for the third mounting hole?...When this plate is fitted and pushes the mount further out, does it effect the fitment of the engine into the bay...how well do all the other mounts align up?

Thanks in advance.

you dont even need it mate. its only if your being anal about it. mines been fine on just two bolts as has other peoples

VW put three bolts in the engine mount for a good reason, you can run it without, but its pikey and I dont really think you should be advising people to be a pikey mofo.

The plate should ideally be used, you want to chamfer your engine mount, so the mount still sits flush, its a couple of quid in a material, and an hour in time.

other mounts are just the standard mk1-3 gearbox mounts and align fine

Hi Guys - My internet connection is really bad at the moment, so trawling through these posts again to find the answer could be very painfully slow for me and I'm struggling with the search function too.

- Its just a couple of quick questions regarding the engine mount I have:

Am I correct in think that NO alterations need to be made to the original mount that bolts to the engine...and only a 'sandwich' plate needs to be fabricated for the third mounting hole?...When this plate is fitted and pushes the mount further out, does it effect the fitment of the engine into the bay...how well do all the other mounts align up?

Thanks in advance.

you dont even need it mate. its only if your being anal about it. mines been fine on just two bolts as has other peoples

Thank you for the input - I'm am actually quite anal and don't generally cut corners.

How long have you been running the conversion? - I guess its fine depending on how much you drive AND how hard you drive it. VW designed the mount with 3 retaining bolts for a reason. And don't forget - this was designed for engines with less weight and lower BHP levels...

I could drive my car using 3 bolts holding each wheel on...but I wouldn't. Not when spirited driving is involved.

- SO, the question was aimed at people who have done this mod.

they didnt design them with a plate in either, or an angle grinded arb mount, bodged alternator, ect ect

Edited 8 January, 201214 yr by erixtar1992

VW put three bolts in the engine mount for a good reason, you can run it without, but its pikey and I dont really think you should be advising people to be a pikey mofo.

The plate should ideally be used, you want to chamfer your engine mount, so the mount still sits flush, its a couple of quid in a material, and an hour in time.

other mounts are just the standard mk1-3 gearbox mounts and align fine

lol - See my previous post!

Thanks for the info bud.

Do you mean chamfer the original Mk2 mount? - Does this not weaken it a little?

Don't suppose you have a link to a thread/photos?

they didnt design them with a plate in either, or an angle grinded arb mount, bodged alternator, ect ect

it might be a valid excuse if it cost 100s of pounds, but its a couple of quids worth of metal. theres being pikey and then theres just being a cheapskate.

lol - See my previous post!

Thanks for the info bud.

Do you mean chamfer the original Mk2 mount? - Does this not weaken it a little?

Don't suppose you have a link to a thread/photos?

no worries mate,

nah i dont have pics I'm afraid, think renegade440 does in his build thread.

basically you want to take off whatever thickness the plate is, off the rear of the engine mount, shouldnt be more than 5mm. I gave it to a local engineer dunno what he did, but he did it for free for me, as id sent a fair bit of work his way. I'm sure if you drop Phataz1 a PM he could probably do it for you!

Running 3 wheel bolts is fine, the ax GT only had that many as standard

you all worry too much haha

you all worry too much haha

nope..... I think we all like to feel safe the the engine won't twist it's self out of the engine bay!! :-D

When I did mine I did grind the back of the mount down a bit but not fully enough to fully compensate for the plate.. but it was only a couple of mm out..

the 3rd bolt probably doesnt do much in regards to normal use, but in a crash.....

Anything that helps stop the engine being pushed further into your legs has to be a bonus :)

I'm running a mk3 fly wheel can anyone please point me in the right direction on what 6 bolts i need to fit the fly wheel to engine? Would really appriciate the help thanks jake

the 3rd bolt probably doesnt do much in regards to normal use, but in a crash.....

Anything that helps stop the engine being pushed further into your legs has to be a bonus :)

in a mk2 polo i dont really stand a chance anyway if i hit somethin

the 3rd bolt probably doesnt do much in regards to normal use, but in a crash.....

Anything that helps stop the engine being pushed further into your legs has to be a bonus :)

Another way to look at it is the less holding the engine in the more chance of it breaking loose and being ejected from the bay before it has a change to get to your legs

On a serious note tho, the drivers side engine mount snaps in a crash long before the bolts holding it on

Edited 11 January, 201214 yr by Mclovin

i believe its to do with counter rotational forces applied.

its such a minor job, that in my eyes its a job worth doing. its not strictly neccessary as pointed out above by those who run the conversion without, but theres no valid excuse not to bar lethargy

Edited 11 January, 201214 yr by grungeisdead

I'm running a mk3 fly wheel can anyone please point me in the right direction on what 6 bolts i need to fit the fly wheel to engine? Would really appriciate the help thanks jake

www.vagcat.com has them as

12 N 90206103

hexagonal head bolt

M10X1X19,5 /