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Mk1-3 Polo 1.4 16v FAQ + Conversion Guide

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Just want to say thanks to everyone who has put info up about these conversions! Finally got my hands on an AFH but i'm attempting to run it on the standard injection. Just wondering if I can use any 6N wiring loom or does it have to be the 16v loom???

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  • grungeisdead
    grungeisdead

    Fitting Bike Carbs in a mk3 So anyway. To the meat! What do I need? 1 x Mk1/2/3 Polo ENGINE 1 x 1.4 16v (AFH Engine Code) out of a Mk4 Polo 16v “Valver” Engine Mounting Plate GEARBOX, A

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    shipleym701

    Hey guys. Rang VW about that G40 Oil T-Piece. They said something about a banjo fitting that comes in two separate parts. Works out as about 40 quid for the two. Does this sound right? I was g

  • Wrong topic. But those carbs are set up for a 1.6 8v and the manifold is for a Ford 1.3/1.4/1.6 CVH 8v engine. Carbs themselves would be fine for a 1.6 8v Polo.

Has to be 16v (well the engine part does anyway), imo the early spec loom is easier to work with but others have used the late spec loom with no issues

Ahh cheers dude, the hunt is on for an early spec 16v loom then :) Is there anywhere else to look for injected conversions? I have no clue where to start with the wiring :s

Cheers had a good read through and feeling much better about going injected now :) Some bits i'm not sure about but should all make more sense when i have things in front of me. Only thing i'm not clued up on is the transponder box/immobiliser bit... sounds tricky, i've just bought an ECU so i'm guissing i'll need it decoding?

If you've only got the ecu then you can either get the immob removed from it all together or buy another immob setup and match them using vag com

The immob its self is easy as Larry, the whole set up has its own little loom so its just a case of plugging the transponder wiring into the immobiliser box and the wiring from the immob box to the 6n fuse box

Edited by Mclovin

Would be nice to tell the insurers that the 91 plop is immobilised :) Thanks for the info dude i'll look into it when my ECU arrives

  • 1 month later...

Aware that the last two comments consist of me asking questions, but now i'm stuck into things properly I have another. I'm using the mk3 alternator but it sits over alot further left than the ones used in other conversions i've seen. The pulleys are almost in line but the alt pulley could do with being a bit thinner for perfect alignment, is this the bit where i attack it gently with a grinder?

  • 1 month later...
Aware that the last two comments consist of me asking questions, but now i'm stuck into things properly I have another. I'm using the mk3 alternator but it sits over alot further left than the ones used in other conversions i've seen. The pulleys are almost in line but the alt pulley could do with being a bit thinner for perfect alignment, is this the bit where i attack it gently with a grinder?

Yer bud grind it down a little each time and line it to make sure you dont over do it :-)

  • 1 month later...

mk3 box with mk4 fly....why do you need to grind the flange?

the driveshaft flange fouls the flywheel so you cant jiggle the box on, just grind a flat on one edge between the bolt holes, just go slow untill it slides on

Sounds like it would keep it balanced haha.

only the output flange (lol flange)

shouldnt cause any problems

Haha ok mate.

Wher'd I need to grind ARB mounts n shit?

shows you in this thread bro!

pics arnt loading on my phone :(

basically grind where the belt would go, as the belt will touch it otherwise

The ARB mount? That's nowhere near the belt :s

You sure?? Lol

the ARB mount is like bottom of engine bay?

Here's a diagram for the benefit of those that will do this in future:

diagarbgrind.jpg

Remember that if you use a Mk2/3 alternator and pulleys (V-belt ones) the belt location is likely to be further down the mount.

Don't worry about his 'fail' haha

On the left hand side (facing your car) there is a bracket that the arb mount bolts to the bottom off.

You can take the bracket off, there is two bolts in the arch.

You can either keep it on and grind it or take it off once the engine is in and grind it, from what i can remember you dont have to grind much off just give the belt some clearance

I also made sure the engine was the furtherest to the right that i could get it this will save you grind a couple of mm off.

It will become more apparent when your engine is out and you go to put it back in.

You got arb blocks? they are highly recomended if you have stainless 4 branch and lowered, i couldnt even get the arb on without them

Peace

Will be getting ARB blocks yes.

Does the mk3 alt pulley fit the mk4 crank pulley?

Will be getting ARB blocks yes.

Does the mk3 alt pulley fit the mk4 crank pulley?

no its smaller on the mk3 alt pulley so you have to remove the pulley and replace it with a mk4 alt pulley you will need to grind a bit off the mk3 alt for it to fit. it shows you in this thread and gives you the part number for the right belt.

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