Mm kinda seems he'd have to adjust castor with his new rose jointed arms then shorten ARB to suit?

Depending on how low this goes, the position of the ARB is going to be adjustable, giving the castor adjustment , I'm actually in the middle of drawing up some adjustable block mounts.

The new wishbones are also length adjustable, wish them having a lock nut on each end, and one rose joint being a left hand thread, the other a right hand.

Correct- which can be done, but requires some machining of the ARB, and then spacing with washers.

The ARB would be extremely difficult to machine, and i wouldn't wanna compensate its integrity so i'll just leave it i think.

This may end up calling for a different ARB from another machine, time will tell after some experimenting!

This looks interesting! I was a little miffed I had to keep stock front end on Polo...but then a G40 with the original ARB holds class records against 205's so can't be TOO bad.

Technically I could run something like this as it isn't moving a suspension mounting point...it's just additional bracing...~strokes chin~

I'm certainly not allowed stage 3. As long as everything works and there is no binding all will be well. I wouldn't worry about adjustable castor. Just pick a value and design it with a static value. Just make sure if you want more/less it's easy to redesign a couple of times till you settle.

Your innovation should be commended and encouraged!

Edited 5 May, 201214 yr by Tav

This looks interesting! I was a little miffed I had to keep stock front end on Polo...but then a G40 with the original ARB holds class records against 205's so can't be TOO bad.

Technically I could run something like this as it isn't moving a suspension mounting point...it's just additional bracing...~strokes chin~

I'm certainly not allowed stage 3. As long as everything works and there is no binding all will be well. I wouldn't worry about adjustable castor. Just pick a value and design it with a static value. Just make sure if you want more/less it's easy to redesign a couple of times till you settle.

Your innovation should be commended and encouraged!

Cheers tav, i guess its something different and new so people will always have their doubts. But it was expected...

I've been involved in setting up a car for a set class before, with similar regulations as yourself, granted the car was nothing like one of these, but an extra track brace was allowed, the same as this i guess?

There shouldn't be any binding, if i get my Pythagorus correct , but as already pointed out, with so many variables it will be hard to tell where everything will settle/sit, so making everything adjustable might be a good idea? The car will also be utilizing some camber adjustable top mounts, the eccentric kind.

Thanks again

I'm looking forward to see how it all connects up. The drawings look good but will be good to see how the TCA and new part fit together.

Will be keeping a eye on this thread ... My college project is to design a subframe ...

I wanted to make a stage 3 but still keep the arb and this is similar to the design i've drawn up.. havnt had chance to read it properly but are you still using the original TCA's Drilled part way down to put the rose joints in ??

Sorry to clog your thread up mate haha ..

Have a look into how the corsa lads adjust caster on their cars. Its what I plan to do to the metro. And something you could do. Or if you can make your own arb blocks machine the hole in the block in a differant place. Not sure how far forward this could go though before its intruding into bolt space.

The corsa/other way involves machining the thinned down section at the end with the threads further down and threading more of the antiroll bar.... Thus bringing wheel forward. 24mm I need to do on the metro!

Took the ARB and subframe off today, but stupidly forgot to look at the ends of the ARB to see what could be done. If there's some unthreaded material after the thread, then it might be easy enough to run a die down it and extend the thread, thus giving me some more room for adjustment. Fuck the metro, get the polo sweet!

I'm looking forward to see how it all connects up. The drawings look good but will be good to see how the TCA and new part fit together.

So am I, its a step forward from anything i've seen on these. Does anyone know what the golf GTi geometry is like upfront, i guess it will be something like this?

Will be keeping a eye on this thread ... My college project is to design a subframe ...

I wanted to make a stage 3 but still keep the arb and this is similar to the design i've drawn up.. havnt had chance to read it properly but are you still using the original TCA's Drilled part way down to put the rose joints in ??

Sorry to clog your thread up mate haha ..

I'll be sure to take some photos of the finishes article so you could maybe use them for your design?

Stock TCA's will be used, I'm deciding whether or not to rose joint the inner end of them, making them the same as G40 items.

I'll be machining some "rap round" mounts that will be welded onto the TCA half way down, instead of drilling into them, the same for the subframe.

Lol only messing, no one touches this thing!

Can't wait till the bay's done.

Few pics of todays progress, i was on it at like 8 till 8 at night!

Subframe and ARB off, smashed the windscreen getting it out though

how do you break a windscreen removing things UNDER the car? lol ? :)

Because i'm hench....

Nah, i removed it, then dropped it on the floor.

FML

What is the windscreen like to take out max? May need to do mine next year when I get the respray. I heard the easiest way is to just push with your legs from inside the car. Yah?

Yours best off getting all the windows out, for the work involved its not worth leaving them in and having a paint witness line all the way around your seals!

Yes, very gentley push it out from inside, get someone else to check from the outside that the glass doesn't bow too much, its hard to tell.

Or i would get them suction pads that allow you to pull etc

Max used a brick

Fuck you!

What is the windscreen like to take out max? May need to do mine next year when I get the respray. I heard the easiest way is to just push with your legs from inside the car. Yah?

yeah we kicked my old one out

like so..

http://s1098.photobucket.com/albums/g361/e...t=VIDEO0023.mp4

mint mate!

Cheers dude!

Hahah PPE!

safety first!

Continue stripping down for re-spray - Rear bumper, clusters, windows out

Remove front headlight/grill mount for powder-coating

Remove subframe for powder-coating

Finish welding on engine bay

Grind down and strip paint and Fill areas for smoothing

De-grease engine bay

Prep bodywork

Re-spray

Send off parts for powder-coating (ARB, Subframe, front suspension parts)

Re-fit the above

Remove rear beam + fuel tank for powder-coating

Re-underseal underneath

Re-fit beam and fuel tank

Finish building engine

Re-fit engine

Continue stripping down for re-spray - Rear bumper, clusters, windows out

Remove front headlight/grill mount for powder-coating

Remove subframe for powder-coating

Finish welding on engine bay

Grind down and strip paint and Fill areas for smoothing

De-grease engine bay

Prep bodywork

Re-spray

Send off parts for powder-coating (ARB, Subframe, front suspension parts)

Re-fit the above

Remove rear beam + fuel tank for powder-coating

Re-underseal underneath

Re-fit beam and fuel tank

Finish building engine

Re-fit engine

ENJOY

My plan is to thoroughly enjoy it

Got loads more than that list though

Will pulling it work then? I'll get on that then. Jesus, just getting this car road ready, and I'm already planning on stripping it out again

I'd enjoy it for a year or so simon honestly. When this is done, it will be a while before its off the road again.

Well I've learned a lot, and have two of a lot of things as I was hoarding for the coupe project. So it would be a case of refurbing what I have, and then swapping it over. Not dicking about like I have been! I wont run it in the winter either way

Yeah i suppose if your taking it off the road through the winter it makes sense to do a bit of work then.

Few shots of this weekends progress, the tig welder didn't like welding half steel, half seam sealer

Still, Got most of the engine bay and nearside engine mount seam stitched...

Is seam welding the bay worth it? I'm considering it.

If your gonna be improving the overall rigidity of the car using braces and struts etc, then i'd recommend it.

For example, the front strut towers are only spot welded on (as well as some seam sealer) , adding a brace might stiffen them up relative to each other, but will induce further flex in the panels, which seam welding will help to eradicate.

Spot on max

Lol, higgo.

Yeah TIG welding is piss, and very enjoyable, far more than MIG on both accounts.

The engine bay has been a mission, don't know why its taken so much effort and time!

Can't wait to put an engine in there though,

And the heater is staying for now, might cover it up some how though, maybe with a scuttle panel?

Oh no wait....