looks fine as it is IMO

Tek all the filler off the turrets. Make your current welds smooth and make some really preety welds between the smooth ones. Have these on show and just stick the chassis legs. Visible welds make me hard. End.

Thats a good idea, as usual!

The problem is though, its not the filler around the turrets i'm worried about, because its thin around there, it the filler on the firewall and battery tray area?

Clean and tidy & neat looks good IMO.

Bens is nice and simple and fresh

the turrets will be fine as the amount of flexing they do isnt enough to break the bond- as long as the surface is preped well. this time around i used "jenolite" to treat the metal chemically to ensure the steel didnt sweat like before. and the areas i most worried about i welded up and ground (and sanded) into rads so my fillering was small.

the areas you have to worry about are bits where the movement in the chassis will compress the filler (like behind the turrets in the groove)

if your going to worry then be smart about it- i was! i put things in areas which hide the marks, a cable routed a certain way, a brake line covering a certain bit to create a visual distraction etc etc.

make a plan of recover so if the worst happens you can hide it!

why do you think i had that fookin awful strut brace?

the turrets will be fine as the amount of flexing they do isnt enough to break the bond- as long as the surface is preped well. this time around i used "jenolite" to treat the metal chemically to ensure the steel didnt sweat like before. and the areas i most worried about i welded up and ground (and sanded) into rads so my fillering was small.

the areas you have to worry about are bits where the movement in the chassis will compress the filler (like behind the turrets in the groove)

if your going to worry then be smart about it- i was! i put things in areas which hide the marks, a cable routed a certain way, a brake line covering a certain bit to create a visual distraction etc etc.

make a plan of recover so if the worst happens you can hide it!

why do you think i had that fookin awful strut brace?

I didn't think that strut brace was that bad! Haha

That's a good shout though, I'm just gonna carry on with the filler, obviously using as little as possible still. Add a brace and then see what happens,

I can always take it off the road next year again, it ain't the end of the world.

i meant the strut brace covered 2 blisters i had on top of the turrets- caused by removing the bits on the top to smooth- i thought about using a vw orange cambelt replacement sticker- but in the end covered it with the brace- it wasnt for strength or to stop flex- that thing wouldnt hold books apart on a shelf let alone my turrets

i meant the strut brace covered 2 blisters i had on top of the turrets- caused by removing the bits on the top to smooth- i thought about using a vw orange cambelt replacement sticker- but in the end covered it with the brace- it wasnt for strength or to stop flex- that thing wouldnt hold books apart on a shelf let alone my turrets

Chaps- keep this on topic please, or I'll delete and let you start a new one with mod preview. This goes for all your build threads, not just Max's.

Thanks,

Pete

Max, was just thinking .. With the arb set up..

You could run a stage 3 subframe, and change the arb to one not as wide and run drop links on the strut ?

This would allow all the factors of caster, camber and still retain the arb etc ...

Just food for the brain :) .. Obv the drop links would have to be short ones or rose jointed ..

Just a thought i had in my head, Most prob alot of things i've missed but I'm sure this would work as other cars have arbs with droplinks on the strut ...

Drop links on struts is workable if already worked it out :) just mod damper bodies to have a bracket for drop links

Take 5 minuits with max, just fab a bracket to it.. Just finding a suitable roll bar :)

Yeah clamps around the caster adjusting arms would work, need to be slackened to adjust then reclamp, was trailing some different ARB setups at work I'll try get pics of brackets

Max, was just thinking .. With the arb set up..

You could run a stage 3 subframe, and change the arb to one not as wide and run drop links on the strut ?

This would allow all the factors of caster, camber and still retain the arb etc ...

Just food for the brain :) .. Obv the drop links would have to be short ones or rose jointed ..

Just a thought i had in my head, Most prob alot of things i've missed but I'm sure this would work as other cars have arbs with droplinks on the strut ...

That's a very good idea mate, however only suitable if you have a stage 3 and not a stage 2 like me.

The main reason its going the way i'm doing it, is becaus i've started with a stage 2 and added wishbones,

Unlike with a stage 3 and adding an ARB, if you get me?

You going poloshow by the way? If so, pester ben in to coming

Doubt this will be on the road this year, absaloutley no work getting done on it at the moment, which is depressing.

Moto GP this weekend too which means no progress for another few weeks

Get on it! Smash it in there!

Take all the cleaning jobs round to the girlfriends!

Yeah i know what you mean :) .. Just a thought XD .. Cheaper to start with a stage 2 ..

500 for a stage 3 :( lol

The bay isn't gonna be a minimalistic bay dude, things are still going to be there, bar the battery and washer bottle. Wires will stay put but put into conduit.

Max, was just thinking .. With the arb set up..

You could run a stage 3 subframe, and change the arb to one not as wide and run drop links on the strut ?

This would allow all the factors of caster, camber and still retain the arb etc ...

Just food for the brain :) .. Obv the drop links would have to be short ones or rose jointed ..

Just a thought i had in my head, Most prob alot of things i've missed but I'm sure this would work as other cars have arbs with droplinks on the strut ...

Problem you have is fitting the compression struts of the frame and an ARB in the space only designed for an ARB. I've mocked up several different ARBs to get an idea of what's possible, but yet to find something that'll clear the chassis legs without severely limiting steering lock. The Salzmann stage 3 equivalent with ARB comes with a lock stop kit for this reason.

Once my car's finally back from paint and back on the road I plan on cutting and shutting a few ARBs to explore what shapes might work, and will then look into getting some made for Stage 3 PPP frame owners to convert to an ARB setup.

Hopefully will spend this weekend making progress on this, why do you all have to live so far away?!

Could do with some help...

Pfft! Far away...far away!!! I'll give you far away ~wonders off mumbling under breath~ lol

Take the rack bar out and weld it do it bottoms out a tooth before the end of travel or whatever ha

pictures of said additional "Bottom arms";

Oh splended :p .. Look nice and chunky tbf

M10 Rose joints, 1" CDS Stainless tubing, all TIG welded, they're strong enough to be an ADDITONAL arm lol

Yeah ben, dust covers will be in use, don't want them wearing out in a few 1000 miles, they were £10 each!

I just can't wait to be bolting all the front set-up back on, all powdercoated and shiney, in a nice freshly paint bay! :-)

This is the best car ever, can't wait to see it.

Its even better than mine.

might sound stupid but cant you just make a dropped bracket for the arb from where the lower arm bolts to the hub? If that makes sense?