If you get a pic up of everything i'm sure we can work it out, its quite easy.

Yeah G40 on toothed belts sounds good, supposedly centrifugal superchargers are very efficient in terms of adding heat to the inlet charge?

Who needs bump stops? Ahah

Rather hit a bumpstops than shocks max out and pop dude. Looking forward to hearing how they turn out anyway, someone told me of some 10m steel ones bending so intrested to see what you do to cure this.

Yeah right,

Ye, really. Speak to Guy if you choose not to believe me.

Who needs bump stops? Ahah

Rather hit a bumpstops than shocks max out and pop dude. Looking forward to hearing how they turn out anyway, someone told me of some 10m steel ones bending so intrested to see what you do to cure this.

Yeah right,

If that yeah right was aimed at the bit about the 10mm steering arms bending I'm afraid its true, the photos were posted on here before. Some lad had bought a mk2f off ebay and posted pics of the homebrew coiled it came on, the steering arms could of even of been slightly more than 10mm (its obviously hard to tell from a photo but they were fair chunky), they were showing obvious signs of bending

Other people must remember it? It caused quite a debate at the time

Edited 16 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

how can you bend steering arms?!?!

Making things chunky isn't always the key to strength, the standard steering arms are made of pretty piss thin metal in comparison, but its the design and shape of them that allows them to be made from what they are. You have to bare in mind that they are under constant sideways forces when ever being driven

how can you bend steering arms?!?!

Probably fatigue

How could you bend them?

Try going through a pothole whilst turning, they are suddenly under a fuck load of stress.

Anything really... if its the wrong shape etc its gunna flex isnt it. I mean a standard one is hollow and what, 3/4mm metal maybe? But its how that metal is used rather than how thick it is.

But the inner joint would flex?

Weird anyway, I don't care. Mine ain't bent haha

instead i've machined my own out of 10mm steel, will be gusset re-inforced etc

I'm not suprised they bent, was it at the weld or the swan neck where the width goes in towards the ball joint hole?

These will be triangulated so there not two dimensional, will be stronger than the OEM ones, which i'd like to think aren't all that structural after being cut and re-welded.

And i doubt they'd bend from going through "a pot hole side ways" the steering arm would just move freely, i'd say they've more than likely bent from fatigue, not just one impact etc

Edited 16 August, 201214 yr by MaxGT

the steering arms are always going to be a structural part no matter what you do to them, unless you mean weaker? Even then the only possible way the standard steering arms being used could be any weaker than they originally were would be through shit welding. The hole in the arm is opened up bigger to fit the larger coilover strut in, thus removing any of the metal that could possibly of been made thinner in the removal process (not that that should happen any way). So the steering arm is the same thickness as it originally was and the strut is the same thickness as the original so as long as the weld is as strong it can't possibly be any weaker

Iirc it was on the thicker bit near the strut, i'll try and find the pics but I can't see it being easy

Edited 16 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin

Yeah pics would be cool,

I'm planning on tacking these on to the strut, and then adding a 5mm thick triangle underneath, nice 3 root welds, jobs a good'un.

Who needs bump stops? Ahah

Rather hit a bumpstops than shocks max out and pop dude. Looking forward to hearing how they turn out anyway, someone told me of some 10m steel ones bending so intrested to see what you do to cure this.

Yeah right,

If that yeah right was aimed at the bit about the 10mm steering arms bending I'm afraid its true, the photos were posted on here before. Some lad had bought a mk2f off ebay and posted pics of the homebrew coiled it came on, the steering arms could of even of been slightly more than 10mm (its obviously hard to tell from a photo but they were fair chunky), they were showing obvious signs of bending

Other people must remember it? It caused quite a debate at the time

if its the same one that car is now scrap, was it a light green colour? i bought it for its engine, coilovers etc, the steering arms are no way near 10mm thick, probally around half that, cant rememer them been bent when i removed them, ill check for you though

Will!

Have some input on this K03 or G40, pressurized bike carbs problem please :-)

K03 pal, a more sustainable reliability. My set ups getting started next week. It is pricey though!

Whats actually un-reliable about the G40?

Just rebuilds and slipping belts ect ect just gay unless u like the noise

Just rebuilds and slipping belts ect ect just gay unless u like the noise

toothies and a turbo, solves all :-D

Just rebuilds and slipping belts ect ect just gay unless u like the noise

Hang on, you said get the G40 the other day!

I'm tempted by the G40 for now, ease of installation, and i'm not wanting massive boost yet,

Just a linear curve, staight from idle.

I think the linear boost maybe more suited to getting the bike carbs to work.

What RPM does the G40 hit maxmaxmaxmax boost with toothies?

Hahaha,

Toothies won't change the max power rpm surely!?

Just stop slip and help the charger to use the drive force available from the belt!

Hahaha,

Toothies won't change the max power rpm surely!?

Just stop slip and help the charger to use the drive force available from the belt!

Toothies are a smaller size, iirc stock V belts are 75 ot 76mm, toothies vary but the most common is 65mm iirc? So the charger spins abit more so more boosts per revolution of the engine :-)

Just rebuilds and slipping belts ect ect just gay unless u like the noise

Hang on, you said get the G40 the other day!

I'm tempted by the G40 for now, ease of installation, and i'm not wanting massive boost yet,

Just a linear curve, staight from idle.

Yeah because id prefer a g charger as i love the noise

But for reliability a turbo would probably be better

Hahaha,

Toothies won't change the max power rpm surely!?

Just stop slip and help the charger to use the drive force available from the belt!

Toothies are a smaller size, iirc stock V belts are 75 ot 76mm, toothies vary but the most common is 65mm iirc? So the charger spins abit more so more boosts per revolution of the engine :-)

I know they usually use a smaller pulley, but toothed vs toothless you'd still get peak power at the same engine speed theoretically if they're the same diameter pulley, but obviously because the pulley DIA is reduced, so is the lap angle meaning slip becomes more apparent, que teeth!

Just rebuilds and slipping belts ect ect just gay unless u like the noise

Hang on, you said get the G40 the other day!

I'm tempted by the G40 for now, ease of installation, and i'm not wanting massive boost yet,

Just a linear curve, staight from idle.

Yeah because id prefer a g charger as i love the noise

But for reliability a turbo would probably be better

Aye i know

Still swaying to the supercharger though, seems like the best thing to try first to get the bike carbs set-up well.

Will!

Have some input on this K03 or G40, pressurized bike carbs problem please :-)

least with the g40 its all just bolt on and go, then you can throw time at tuning the carbs, which will take a while, then for more power go down the turbo route, wouldnt bother with a ko3, something from the garrett range, old t25 at least

once the carbs are set up using the pitot tube method you should be able to up the boost without having to make any drastic changes to the carbs