Yesss like the look of this! You gonna hone those bores? Look pretty glazed

cheers jon.

No , dont think i will be. haven't got the tools for it, Plus if i take the bottom end apart i would have to do the rings and shells and cba lol

You done yours yet?

Looking at that inlet, my early mecanical one would be useless. I'll tig those bits on to a spare MH inlet and if your up for giving it a bit of port matching and skimming the face i'd be well appreciative.

Adapter looks sweet as fook

No problem mate i would be happy to. Just PM with exactly what you want regarding everything.

Cheers about the adapter

Some more pics of the 1272 etc

Also started producing my own ARB blocks.

Edited 18 February, 201115 yr by MaxMax

Also have nearly finished machining my fly cutter for skimming heads/manfiold etc.

very good stuff max

Good stuff Max. What you using for the ARB blocks, Is it nylon? what size hole Diameter you gone with?

Glass filled nylon, Very hard, Self lubricating (to a degree, May machine in a grease hole for servicing), Very durable.

Well I measured the ARB and it was 18mm in diameter, So the hole in the blocks measures just under that. Going to see if it fits OK.

Haven't had much time on them yet though.

Will update when necessary.

Max

very good stuff max

Cheers neil.

Much appreciated.

Few more updates:

Finished fully stripping down the head tonight (was at work for 2 extra hours, That's dedication)

Found that it has double valve springs, Was a nice surprise, means I don't have to buy any.

Few pics:

All of the bearing cap studs taken out, Also the little pins to hold the cover gasket in place, This is so it can sit flat when i skim in.

Just need a good clean, Ports sorting out, new seals, valves doing, all lapping in etc. Alot to do.

Does anyone know of a good place to get it acid dipped after i skim it? Really want it doing.

Some more pics:

inlet valve, coated in carbon. Was wondering why the inlets seemed to have much more carbon build up than the exhaust valves? Thought it would be the other way around?

Also had some trouble getting the flipping stem seals out, they're such a pain, Whats the best way to remove them? I had to just grab them with a pair of long nose pliers and butcher them.

Some pics:

If anyone has any info on any of the question, that would be great!

inlet valve, coated in carbon. Was wondering why the inlets seemed to have much more carbon build up than the exhaust valves? Thought it would be the other way around?

Also had some trouble getting the flipping stem seals out, they're such a pain, Whats the best way to remove them? I had to just grab them with a pair of long nose pliers and butcher them.

Have you checked the guides? A little oil can leak down them onto the back of the valves and cause a small carbon build up. I'd whack a DTI on it and check the rock. Do you know what condition the engine was in before?

An get some stem seal pliers :)

Nah, haven't checked the guides, what's the best way? Got a DTI gauge but cant see how you can check the condition of them with it lol

Also, If it was oil being the problem, Wouldn't it be the stem seals and not the guides?

Its a reasonable mile engine. Think it broke 100,000.

Max

Firstly measure the valve and guide length.

Stick the valve in the guide, leave the valve about half an inch open.

Set up the DTI up so it's just touching the edge of the valve, then lightly move the valve to one side and zero the DTI.

Then again lightly move the valve in the opposite direction to the full extent of the play and read the value on the DTI, this'll be length 'R' shall we say.

V = Valve guide length

G = Guide Length

R = Measured Rock

W = Wear

Ø = Angle (Theta)

Then time for a wee bit of trig

opp/ adjacent = Tan Ø

R/V = Tan Ø

W/G = Tan Ø

W/G = R/V

Re-arranged to give W= RG/V

Do this for two directions, at 90 degrees to each other, compare them and you'll be able to determine the valve-to-guide clearance (check against manufacturer's spec to see if the guides are too worn)/ if the guide has any ovality.

Hope that makes some sense, i tried to find a suitable how-to on the web but none seemed to explain it properly so i did it myself (apologies for the shitty paint drawing )

Other ways of doing it are to use a micro bore gauge but they're fackin expensive, but if you got one could do it that way too.

Wicked, cheers for that john. Just a few questions.

On your key, Youve put "V = Valve guide length"

Do you mean just valve legnth? , because "G" = guide legnth, no?

Also, after zero'ing the gauge and moving it in the opposite direction to find "R" , isnt that the same as "W" and being the wear aswell?

Trig isnt my best aspect in maths also lol

Cheers mate.

Removing oil stem seals I found putting a small socket over them (either 12-sided or 6-sided Torx) and very gently and carefully twisting them off works well.

Removing oil stem seals I found putting a small socket over them (either 12-sided or 6-sided Torx) and very gently and carefully twisting them off works well.

Great, Ill have ago now.

Cheers.

Stem seals are a bit on an arse, i used a chunky pair of pliers. Grip around the "lip" and twist, should come off fairly easily. You could also try circlip pliers underneath them, may well work.

I think manf. spec. on guide play is 1mm. (Don't take this for gospel though).

I still havn't tackled that inlet yet dude. I'm hoping to take saturday off and go into work and sort it out. Fingers crossed I don't get guilted into working the weekend!

As for cleaning, a gallon of parrafin in a tub and some small wire brushes worked for me. Came out looking almost brand new!

Acid dipping would be easier. Ring your local powdercoaters and see if they use anything similar.

I just remembered that gasket paper! It's wrapped, i'll post it tomorrow

Edited 24 November, 201015 yr by randombadger69

Wicked, cheers for that john. Just a few questions.

On your key, Youve put "V = Valve guide length"

Do you mean just valve legnth? , because "G" = guide legnth, no?

Also, after zero'ing the gauge and moving it in the opposite direction to find "R" , isnt that the same as "W" and being the wear aswell?

Trig isnt my best aspect in maths also lol

Cheers mate.

Yeah V= valve length haha

And nah it isn't because there will be a higher deviation at 'R' than there will be at 'W'

Stem seals are a bit on an arse, i used a chunky pair of pliers. Grip around the "lip" and twist, should come off fairly easily. You could also try circlip pliers underneath them, may well work.

I think manf. spec. on guide play is 1mm. (Don't take this for gospel though).

I still havn't tackled that inlet yet dude. I'm hoping to take saturday off and go into work and sort it out. Fingers crossed I don't get guilted into working the weekend!

As for cleaning, a gallon of parrafin in a tub and some small wire brushes worked for me. Came out looking almost brand new!

Acid dipping would be easier. Ring your local powdercoaters and see if they use anything similar.

I just remembered that gasket paper! It's wrapped, i'll post it tomorrow

Arr its fine about the gasket paper matey, Ordered a cart load of eBay, All sorts of thickness and materials for £6, pretty good to be honest.

Just PM me then when your ready about the manifold.

What's happening about the adapter then dude? You want me to make an identical one to mine? And what carburettor are you using again? DMTL?

Wicked, cheers for that john. Just a few questions.

On your key, Youve put "V = Valve guide length"

Do you mean just valve legnth? , because "G" = guide legnth, no?

Also, after zero'ing the gauge and moving it in the opposite direction to find "R" , isnt that the same as "W" and being the wear aswell?

Trig isnt my best aspect in maths also lol

Cheers mate.

Yeah V= valve length haha

And nah it isn't because there will be a higher deviation at 'R' than there will be at 'W'

Yeah just realised the height you had put "W" at , makes sense now lol

Sorry I was knackered when I read it.

thanks a lot for that mate, Ill be using that if Iain forgets to bring his bore gauge tomorrow lol

Hows you beast coming along, Fancy a drag when their both sorted?

Haha it's a good method if you don't have any specialist equipment to hand, and can be just as accurate if done properly :-)

No problem anyway :)

Yeee it's comin on well! I still need to get main bearing shells before i rebuild the bottom end, i stupidly took them out before measuring them to see if i even needed new ones! So now i have to anyway. (I guess you learn from your mistakes )

Yeah deffo keen, spring fest next year?

Arr its fine about the gasket paper matey, Ordered a cart load of eBay, All sorts of thickness and materials for £6, pretty good to be honest.

Just PM me then when your ready about the manifold.

What's happening about the adapter then dude? You want me to make an identical one to mine? And what carburettor are you using again? DMTL?

using a 32 34 DMTL 0 171 00

Hole centres are 87 x 46 mm square (107 x 66mm OD). Onto an MH inlet, which is a funkin Trapeziod pattern (as you well know!).

Arr its fine about the gasket paper matey, Ordered a cart load of eBay, All sorts of thickness and materials for £6, pretty good to be honest.

Just PM me then when your ready about the manifold.

What's happening about the adapter then dude? You want me to make an identical one to mine? And what carburettor are you using again? DMTL?

using a 32 34 DMTL 0 171 00

Hole centres are 87 x 46 mm square (107 x 66mm OD). Onto an MH inlet, which is a funkin Trapeziod pattern (as you well know!).

107 x 66mm OD???

You mean outside dimension? from the outsides of the whole to the outside of the opposite hole.

Yeah the MH is very dodgey, From what i clocked it up at, VW were making it hard for us lol

What mods you doing then dude?

Haha it's a good method if you don't have any specialist equipment to hand, and can be just as accurate if done properly :-)

No problem anyway :)

Yeee it's comin on well! I still need to get main bearing shells before i rebuild the bottom end, i stupidly took them out before measuring them to see if i even needed new ones! So now i have to anyway. (I guess you learn from your mistakes )

Yeah deffo keen, spring fest next year?

Its a very good method mate.

What course you doing at uni btw?

Removing oil stem seals I found putting a small socket over them (either 12-sided or 6-sided Torx) and very gently and carefully twisting them off works well.

Great, Ill have ago now.

Cheers.

No worries :-) did it work OK for you?

What course you doing at uni btw?

Motorsport engineering BSC! Really enjoying it :-) Would highly recommend to anyone.