I'm getting a gearbox next week. I have been quoted 100 pound from a couple friend to change the box. But i have been influenced from a family member to do it our selfs as we have access to a pit and a variate of tools. I have studyed the haynes manual and some youtube videos and i belive to have the jist of it, I'm quite diy minded anc feel confiddnt going in to this. Please correct me at any mistakes or things i have miss out or should have done.

Raise car on axel stands, remove things that abstruct getting to thd gearbox anc removal of it. Remove cable linkage , via series of bolts and pins. Remove drive shalfs and tie them up out the way. Remove sensor plugs from gearbox, remove clutch cable, undo the gearbox mounts and support box with trolly jack, remove a series of bolts connecting the box to the engine. Slowly pull box away from engine making sure the splined shalf has no pressure on it. Remove box from engine bay. Add some grease ro the spline on new box and re fit

Thats the procedure i have in my head, does it sound like i will have any problems? You comments are more than welcome.

That's pretty much it,though you'll need to undo the exhaust too as you'll need to lower the jack all the way down (so the engine is hanging at an angle) to slide the gearbox off the engine.

And remember to remove the D shaped cover plate on the gearbox next to the oil sump.

is that just held on by bolts, do you need a gasket or anythings for gearbox connecting to engine?

just three nuts off the fanimold and no gasket needed just new oil

ok cheers folks. Whilst gearbox is out it must be worth changing the clutch. I no about how the clutch alighment tool works and the clutch cover bolts to the flywheel. Olny things i dont no is. Does the realease bearing just slide off? Its connected to the clutch cable. Also why do i have to lock the flywheel in place?

Edited 10 April, 201016 yr by Scott_GT

It's almost always advised to fit a new clutch,the reason is obvious,but of course if its a healthy clutch then it may be worth putting it off for the time being. That's down to you.

Alignment can be done visually but it must be centred.

The bearing is easy,and there are no gaskets.

You'll need a torque wrench and 9mm spline tool for the pressure plate,and Haynes manual for the torque figures. You cant torque the clutch up properly without locking the flywheel.

sorry to nick a thread but i am doing exactly the same procedure in my valver this week, got all the bolts out apart from one, the one that you undo from the driver side (where the cable holder bolts to the box with a small bar), and cannot get it loose! have tried to take that bar off but there doesn't seem to be enough play to do that, and i can't get a spanner or anything on it to get enough pressure to get it loose! any suggestions?

i've swapped a valver box without removing any of the exhaust system.