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StringsOnFire

Remote Central Locking on 9N with Original VW Parts

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greid
I've searched a few forums on swapping ECUs. My old keys will still work right? For swapping the ECU, I have to code it to work with my immobiliser? The guide on Rosstech says I need my SKU plus some other bits of info, but I can't get hem anywhere now as dealers use a new system that doesn't show them anything and communicates online with a main server. So how did you swap the ECUs without bugging up your immobiliser?

Swapping the central locking ECU has no effect on the immobiliser -- your old key will still start the car, your new key won't.

The SKC is a 7-digit reversible hash of the 4-digit PIN you retrieve from the car with Vagtacho. You can use either the SKC or the PIN with VAG-COM to adapt the new key for the immobiliser as per Rosstech's instructions.

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StringsOnFire

ah ok, makes sense.

can you tell me what bits I ned to copy from one ecu to the other please?

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greid
can you tell me what bits I ned to copy from one ecu to the other please?

Just the soft coding -- it's displayed just after you've connected to the ECU with VAG-COM. Write it down, swap the ECUs and then press the "Recode - 07" button, inputting the old code into the new ECU. If you want to turn on auto-lock/unlock and indicator flashing, you can do that through "Adaptation - 10".

I think you might have been looking at Ross-tech's instructions for immobiliser ECU swapping. You're not doing that, you're swapping the central locking ECU.

The Ross-tech instructions you want for immobiliser key matching are online here. In those instructions (Step 7) where it asks you to press "[Login - 11]" and then "[use 7-digit PIN/SKC]", you can just use the PIN that Vagtacho gave you with a zero in front of it after pressing "[Login - 11]" instead of pressing "[use 7-digit PIN/SKC]".

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StringsOnFire

ah that makes even more sense. will post pack when it's done!

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StringsOnFire

hang on.. in the Ross-Tech guide, when it says ignition, it means electronics on, but not the engine, right? And why am I meant to write down the 14 digit immobiliser ID? It isn't used anywhere else in that guide.

I'm going through all the posts and references first and putting it into a guide, so I can follow and refine it as I do it and upload once it's all done, hence all these questions!

thanks

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greid
hang on.. in the Ross-Tech guide, when it says ignition, it means electronics on, but not the engine, right? And why am I meant to write down the 14 digit immobiliser ID? It isn't used anywhere else in that guide.

Ignition on means electronics and not engine, yes -- you won't be able to connect to the ECU otherwise. Don't know why they want you to write down the immo ID -- you don't need it.

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StringsOnFire

I've got VagTacho installed and running. What ECU do I select? I take it it's VDO, but do it pick New, Old or C5?

Thanks

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greid
I've got VagTacho installed and running. What ECU do I select? I take it it's VDO, but do it pick New, Old or C5?

As far as I know all of the pre-CAN-BUS clusters are "VDO New".

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StringsOnFire

Key blade arrived and is fitted. time to get started!

Before I do, little confusing over matching method. When I go to program the keys with the immobiliser, am I supposed to do it with just my new key or repeat with all of my keys?

Thanks

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greid
Before I do, little confusing over matching method. When I go to program the keys with the immobiliser, am I supposed to do it with just my new key or repeat with all of my keys?

You have to match all of the keys in one session. It's been a while since I've done this but you might have to match the old keys before any new ones.

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StringsOnFire

so I match the old keys too, even though they have write once transponders?

another problem, i switched to windows 7 to get VCDS-Lite working nicely, but VagTacho doesn't seem to like it... It connects to the interface, but can't connect to the ECU :s any ideas?

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greid
so I match the old keys too, even though they have write once transponders?

Yes, they're written with a hash of the VIN when first matched so they can only ever be matched to one vehicle. However, you can re-match a key that has been previously matched to the that vehicle (since it already has the correct VIN written to the transponder). Similarly, you can "unmatch" a key by just not including it in the matching routine, e.g. if you've lost it or want to disable keys that previous owners might have held on to.

another problem, i switched to windows 7 to get VCDS-Lite working nicely, but VagTacho doesn't seem to like it... It connects to the interface, but can't connect to the ECU :s any ideas?

No idea sorry, I've always used both piece of software on XP.

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StringsOnFire

I'll try using another laptop tonight with XP on it, hopefully it'll work...

Another thing I totally forgot to ask, what else does the central locking ECU do? The haynes manual mentioned alarm, electric mirrors and sunroof. Does that mean if I switch the ECUs I'll have to set up my electric mirrors or something? Does the 'E' ECU even do mirrors?

thanks

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greid
Another thing I totally forgot to ask, what else does the central locking ECU do? The haynes manual mentioned alarm, electric mirrors and sunroof. Does that mean if I switch the ECUs I'll have to set up my electric mirrors or something? Does the 'E' ECU even do mirrors?

It definitely controls the alarm and sunroof, but I don't think it does the mirrors (although I would have to look it up in ETKA to be sure). If it's any help, my car has electric mirrors and they still work fine with the 'E' unit!

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StringsOnFire

I've sent my vagtacho cable back. wouldn't work with 2 different laptops. ordered a 2.5 instead...

decided I'd do the ECU swap tonight. got the soft code. went to find the ECU, but I can't see it. stuck my head under by the pedals and had look around. I saw a bigger box with a lot more cables plugged in (it wasn't even clipped in properly, so I fixed that) but that's the only box I can see. Can you be really specific as to where the central locking ECU is please? I'm lost.

Thanks

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greid
decided I'd do the ECU swap tonight. got the soft code. went to find the ECU, but I can't see it. stuck my head under by the pedals and had look around. I saw a bigger box with a lot more cables plugged in (it wasn't even clipped in properly, so I fixed that) but that's the only box I can see. Can you be really specific as to where the central locking ECU is please? I'm lost.

Did you take the air vent out of the way? I seem to recall removing either the clutch or brake pedal switch as well for better access. The ECU sits in a plastic holder, with the cables coming out of the other side to the one you're looking at. Obviously you know approximately what size it is as you've got a new one.

It would probably be easier if you took a photo of what you can see above the pedals and then I'll point it out on the image.

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StringsOnFire

vagtacho 2.5 arrived this morning, and it works perfectly on windows 7. now all my keys work, including the new one. just the ECU swap left.

Here's the photo, but I don't think it'll help much. I can't see the locking ECU at all.

Can you point out where to look and what to remove? Hopefully then my uncle will help me with it tonight. And would the bits to remove be in the Haynes manual d'you think?

If you can add some details to the photo, or take some that are clearer, it would be much appreciated, and I'll add them to the guide to make it easier for others too.

Thanks yet again!

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greid
Here's the photo, but I don't think it'll help much. I can't see the locking ECU at all.

Can you point out where to look and what to remove? Hopefully then my uncle will help me with it tonight. And would the bits to remove be in the Haynes manual d'you think?

If you can add some details to the photo, or take some that are clearer, it would be much appreciated, and I'll add them to the guide to make it easier for others too.

You haven't removed the vent, and you won't be able to get to it without doing that. There's a single Torx screw -- undo that and then just pull it out.

Attached is a photo with the vent removed; my finger is touching the central locking ECU in its holder. The blue thing is the clutch pedal switch.

post-26682-1278600017_thumb.jpg

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StringsOnFire

aha that makes so much sense now. any other tips about removing and replacing the ECU before I try it?

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greid
aha that makes so much sense now. any other tips about removing and replacing the ECU before I try it?

You have to get the box out before you can get to the wiring -- I tried to take the plugs out first and it's just impossible.

Don't expect to get it out without breaking the holder it lives in. Basically I jammed a large flat-blade screwdriver up the side of the holder that attaches it to the rest of the car and just levered it until the plastic tab holding it in place snapped. Once the ECU is hanging free you should then be able to disconnect the two plugs at the top. Your new unit will have three plugs -- the extra one is presumably either for the alarm or for an antenna for the remote control (but it works fine without it). If you break the holder you should be able to just secure the replacement unit in place with cable ties.

Incidentally, on LHD cars the box is easily accessible and points the other way, meaning you can just disconnect the plugs and the box slips out of the holder!

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StringsOnFire

it's not going so well. we switched the ECUs, but I couldn't program the remote. also, the old ecu only had one port, for the larger plug in the middle... maybe there's the problem?

i was going through adaptation, and I saw 'internal monitoring', which I turned off, assuming it was because of the alarm. now vcds-lite won;t even connect to it, but it can still connect to the other modules.

any ideas?

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greid
it's not going so well. we switched the ECUs, but I couldn't program the remote. also, the old ecu only had one port, for the larger plug in the middle... maybe there's the problem?

Is yours a 2-door car? That'll be why. The other plug is for the rear doors.

i was going through adaptation, and I saw 'internal monitoring', which I turned off, assuming it was because of the alarm. now vcds-lite won;t even connect to it, but it can still connect to the other modules.

Don't worry - I did exactly the same thing and was worried I'd killed the new unit. Disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes allowed me to connect to the ECU again.

Programming the remote is tricky. I did it without using VAG-COM with the process I described using two keys -- my recollection may not be 100% correct, though, about the exact sequence of things that I did. There is a VAG-COM procedure for remote matching but I couldn't get it to work. You could also look at this link, or this link for some hints. It is definitely possible!

You're nearly there!

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StringsOnFire

All done :) I did a hard reset, touching the negative battery lead on the positive terminal to quickly discharge all the remaining charge. Didn't think to try it just unplugged for a couple of minutes. But yeah, it let me back in. Now the car has to relearn how to drive, though...

The procedure was a bit wrong. That's why it didn't work. Had to have the window down and all doors closed, and then put key in ignition (from the outside). I thought it might hav been because I only had one cable, not two like yours, and maybe that extra one was the aerial connection or sumin :s But now it all works :)

I've set the lights to blink on lock/unlock. Does the beep setting do anything? Or would I need the OEM alarm for that to work?

also, there's the setting for the alarm horn or something, it's the last channel to have any data on it in the ECU. Mine's set to 3. does it actually do anything? VCDS-Lite's lacking it's usual helpful popup message on it.

thanks very much for getting me through this. i'll have the guide finished in a couple of days.

Edited by makeluv247

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greid
I've set the lights to blink on lock/unlock. Does the beep setting do anything? Or would I need the OEM alarm for that to work?

also, there's the setting for the alarm horn or something, it's the last channel to have any data on it in the ECU. Mine's set to 3. does it actually do anything? VCDS-Lite's lacking it's usual helpful popup message on it.

Yeah, you need the alarm horn for both the beep setting and horn setting to make any sense. Retrofitting the horn would probably be straightforward, but I'm not sure about the interior monitoring sensors. Something to think about maybe!

thanks very much for getting me through this. i'll have the guide finished in a couple of days.

You're welcome, look forward to seeing the guide so others can do this upgrade (which, BTW, my local VW dealer says is "totally impossible")!

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StringsOnFire

hmm ok. i think the alarm would be a set of things that all plug into one loom (into the locking ECU. then I reckon interior monitoring is the internal sensors for the alarm, and the horn settings are of course for the alarm horn.

time to save up for a plip alarm, probably the cobra one. maybe i can make that beep on lock/unlock.

is there a way to roll the windows up/down via the remote? i was hoping I could just hold the lock/unlock buttons as if turning the key :) I saw something online that programs something or other for it, but i figured I don't want the windows up every time I lock the car, so it won't be as useful as it sounds :s

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