7 minutes ago, RoyTheBoy said:

I have no idea then, hope someone on here can sort it for you. If got key that you know works. There's a vcds Facebook page too but they tend to block users that use fake leads.

The rosstech website shows yoy how to do it. Im just chating 2 an auto locksmith who said bring it down and he will try it.

That's good then, he should have his own equipment to get it paired and if not ask if he can try pairing one of his key fobs if possible, you never know.

I have tried both vcds way and the manual way still not working. Tried different soft coding and at the end settled for 00017 and still no luck. The keyfob is from a fabia vrs and the ccm is the E version. With vcds wen i click on central conv, then adaption, then i delete old keys on channel 00  and go to channel 01 to program the key it says at the top current number of keys: 1, does this mean that it hasnt deleted the old keys?

Anyway after i program the key, rosstech says press the UNLOCK buttonf which i do and when i do press it i hear a faint click from the ccm.

Loosing my rag with this car.

Got it all fixed. Not sure if it was my vcds or the remote fob.

Well done getting it all working, it's a pain not knowing exactly what is was but least it's working now. I'm thinking of getting a lead and vcds but I won't be paying what Ross tech charges for them, I want to change mine to autolock at 10mph and I have to press unlock twice to unlock all doors, I'm not too bothered about it though.

27 minutes ago, RoyTheBoy said:

I won't be paying what Ross tech charges

The registered version of VCDS Lite will do that for you (was playing about with mine a couple of days ago, doing the opposite of what you plan to), so just the cost of a compatible lead, and the USD99 registering fee, (a smidge under £80 today).

 

Edit, I should just add (having seen that your car is a 59 plate), it works on a 9N and a 2005 9N3, but I've never tried doing anything on a really late 9N3.

Edited 9 May, 20206 yr by Pete1

Thanks Pete, I've had a look at the vcds lite and think it's 2005 and older that it works on, a bit of a gamble for my one, might try a cheapo one off ebay or if anyone has one on here they don't need anymore.

Finished my install just now, after a bit of bother with the final stage. 2005/05 plate 9N3.

 

Got the control unit in OK, and coding matched to the old one.

Got keys cut from an ebay seller, the code tag was still on one of the original keys so I didn't have to do it by photo. They're plated brass rather than steel, which was a tad disappointing but not a big surprise.  Did a bit of deburring under a microscope to clean them up a touch, and will keep an eye on the wear rate.

Carefully transferred the ID48 immo chip across from one of the old manual fobs.

 

Last step was the one I struggled with. This bit:

9. Now time to program the remote.

a. With driver's window down and all doors closed, put the old key in the ignition and turn the electrics on.
b. Lock the driver’s door from the outside with the fob key.
c. Press unlock on the remote, wait a couple of seconds and press it again

 

I (mis?)interpreted step b. as meaning lock it using the lock button on the RF remote fob, then unlock it using the unlock button, then pressing unlock again.

That didn't work for me on either a cheapy Chinese RF 3-button fob off Amazon or a claimed-to-be-genuine one that was £18 or so off ebay.  Was just about to give up in disgust when I though I'd try doing step b. differently.  Maybe it's obvious that I misread it, in hindsight, but what worked for me was locking the doors using the key of the RF remote fob, not the lock button, then pressing the unlock button once, then again.

As a bonus, the boot unlock button works too, which I wasn't quite sure about without perhaps doing some other coding.

 

Thanks to the OP, and all other contributors. 😁

 

 

I got the vcds now and managed to get all doors unlocked instead of just unlocking drivers door, also I got it to lock doors after go over 10mph and to unlock when remove key. Now all i want is when I lock the doors if I long press the unlock button for the windows to close, it works if I use the key, hold in in the lock position and all windows close but can't find anything on vcds that will do it on the remote key. Least I got the most important thing done.

Hi!

Im trying to do this retrofit, but my confort module is different than yours....

Mine is bigger and it has more plugs... 

 

What model number is on your comfort control mudule? 

Mine only had the one connector available on it which I replaced it with one that I think has slots for 3 connectors. 

If yours has more than one slot on it, maybe yours is already a remote assisted one.

And are you sure it's the comfort module that your looking at as doubt it would be a bigger one if its the same or similar car. 

I went in with a torch and stuck my head under the dash and I couldn't find it at first and the number wasn't right on it, I was looking at the wrong part lol. 

I'd have another look under the dash on drivers side, I think it's roughly where the center of the steering wheel is but obviously not as high up, u can get to it easily enough though a bit fiddly disconnecting it from the case.

It'll be the Onboard supply control unit he's looking at. RHD or LHD car?

I have no idea Pete, I only know what I did with mine, it's a RHD car. I'm guessing he's probably looking at the wrong unit.

If he can get some model number, if its different to my CCU then I could have a quick look under my dash and see if it matches up with anything.

I think it's mounted sideways under the dash.

14 hours ago, Guest Blue_satan said:

Hi!

Im trying to do this retrofit, but my confort module is different than yours....

Mine is bigger and it has more plugs... 

 

 

Is this what you're talking about?

 

 

 

 

That's not the one you should be looking for, the correct one looks like this:

 

 

This one is nearer the centreline of the car and higher up.

Edited 14 November, 20205 yr by Pete1

Hello, I’m not sure this is the right place to ask but my 9n3 GTI is on the way out and I can’t afford to repair it but I have come into the possession of a normal 9n3 and would like to do a full engine and interior swap but don’t want to lose my remote locking, does anyone know if there is any way of transferring the wiring over from my GTI to the normal 9n3 to give it remote locking?

Hello! I would gladly pay someone for labour and parts if someone could install this for me. My 2008 9n3 already came with a remote key as well as an original key without a remote I just have no idea what parts are needed, where to look under the wheel and what to change as well as how to program. I’m in Hampshire near fleet. 

hi just doing this today, whats the best way to remove the CCM? I have removed the foot well air vent and started to slide it back out of the bracket / tray but wont come out any further, I assume I probably need to disconnect the cables first which are causing it not to slide back any further? then it should come out? waiting for my vcds cable which comes tomorrow, but wanted to get the car prepared and ready. Thanks!

Hey guys, my cable didn’t turn up till late this afternoon and it’s too dark now, I did however manage to plug in my laptop and VCDS. I can confirm my ccu is the model ending in H. So this looks like good news, I have noted down the soft coding and will try this tomorrow if it’s not too dark after I finish work, if not I will try again at the weekend when I have more time! Will keep you posted :)

I meant to say in my previous post my old ccu is the H version. I have the E version which I got from ebay which I will be installing. If this all goes well I might make a video on YouTube of the process to help anyone out who finds it hard reading through the thread

I'm sure a video would be popular. 🙂

What year is your car? 

On 04/01/2014 at 21:20, Guest VRT said:

Just fitted this on mine today and the control unit was a right bitch to fit!!!! I had to remove the blue switch on the clutch pedal as well as removing the air scoop from the footwell. If you look carefully the unit is slid into a plastic bracket/carrier which in turn fits into a metal bracket. The plastic bracket has two plastic clips that slot into the metal bracket. Between the two plastic clips there is a locking tab, I had to gently prize the locking tab to release the plastic bracket. After that dead easy to do. One thing I did was disconnect the battery to do the work. This is what I did with mine and anyone who follows what I did do so at their own risk.

 

Thanks for this, it explains it perfectly. Managed to get my E version fitted this evening. I changed the soft code to the number from the old CCU. I then went to pair, I currently don't have the blade on the new flip remote key cut, but I had take the transponder out the old non remote locking key and put it in the new flip remote.

 

Key A = My old main non remote key with no transponder currently in it

Key B = Original non remote spare key

Key C = Remote key with transponder from key A

 

I then turned ignition on with Key B and window down, put Key A in the door lock and locked it holding Key C next to it as I locked it. Not sure if this would of work anyway or if the key does actually need to be cut. Going to get the key cut and try again. All central locking still seems to be working though with the new CCU and I did notice a flash on both rear indicators when turning Key A in the door, which I don't believe it did before. 

 

Also could be the fact of the key I bought from ebay may be no good. Here is the link: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Remote-Control-3-button-434Mhz-1J0-959-753-AH/360671444496?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 I know the original post said DA model but apparently this is interchangeable according to the ebay listing.

 

Although I also have seen RoyTheBoys comment that said the cheap ebay ones are not great and his auto lock smith said the keys flicker differently apparently.

 

Might try calling a few local auto locksmiths to see what they reckon, I will continue to update my progress as I find out more information and will hopefully do a video of all the steps and troubles if I can get this working. Sorry for the massive post!

Edited 22 March, 20215 yr by Skolzey

Confused by your Key A, key B stuff there, it seems you had key B in ignition and door lock at the same time from what you wrote? Must be a typo there?

6 minutes ago, Pete1 said:

Confused by your Key A, key B stuff there, it seems you had key B in ignition and door lock at the same time from what you wrote? Must be a typo there?

Hi Pete, thanks for the keen eye, I have edited the post and changed this typo. Sorry for the confusion. Also to answer your previous comment for anyone else wondering I have a Polo 9n3 2008.

OK, I thought that must've been what you did, but didn't want to assume. 

I forget the details now, but it sounds like what you did probably ought to have worked, so it may be an issue with an over-cheap fob. 

 

I bought an allegedly genuine one after a failed attempt with a cheapo one initially, and that was only about £15 from memory. Luckily, the bit with the electronics and the bit that I'd already transferred the immo chip into were not the same half, so I could make a hybrid fob out of the cheapo immo/key section and genuine 'tronics. 

 

But all that was before I realised that the door had to be locked using the key rather than the buttons on the fob, so it may be that the cheapo fob would've worked, never went back to try it.

Do you have a photo of the suffix E Convenience module you fitted? (part number label specifically). Seem to remember there are some bits after the main part number that may need to match old-to-new?