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StringsOnFire

Guide: How To Install OEM Remote Central Locking In A Polo 9N With Original Parts

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matt01

Might be worth popping in to your local vw, mine are quite helpful and have fault readings for me for free in the past so they might sort you out cheap

Don't ask you don't get

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ThinkPad

I have read this thread over and over, and I definitely need to do this to my recently purchased 9n3. I am useless at DIY, is there anyone out there who would offer a service to fit for me? Even if a local indie, and of course happy to pay the going rate, and happy to source the parts beforehand!? (West London area, but happy to travel, as I definitely NEED this!)

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ThinkPad

Just one more question, if I am going to get the parts and ask my indie to do the job, if I understand correctly, the below are the only parts I need:

1. Replacement central convenience unit (part #6Q0 959 433 E)
2. 3 button remote fob (part #1JO 959 753 DA)

And I guess can re-use the transponder from my spare key, if the new fob doesn't come with one. But my question is will the above two parts be compatible with the 9n3, or does this only work for the 9n???

Thanks all.

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mikey

I have been looking at this, I have ordered the cables and procured the software. However i have just had a look at my comfort ecu #6q1937049d and i am struggling to find one that looks like it would work as a replacement.

I was hoping somebody could point me in the right direction.

Pictures of the ECU:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47962797/2013-10-24%2022.02.34.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/47962797/2013-10-24%2022.02.58.jpg

Car Spec:

56 Plate Polo 9N3 1.2 s (I think)

Thanks :)

Edited by mikey

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acme15

Hi sorry I need clarification because i'm thick :lol:

I have an '02 Polo 9N which doesnt have central locking, I have to unlock/lock each door with the key manually.

Does that mean i'm utterly stuffed and can't fit central locking, remote central locking, third party central locking, thatcham devices or anything? :-(

Edited by acme15

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oliverd1981

Hi all and thanks for the guide - I have an new flip key working with my original transponder and a new CCU. :D

Edited by oliverd1981

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psynegy

Thanks for the guide, got everything in and working fine. Will upload some pictures of the bracket that holds the CCU as this can be removed without breaking it as I did..!

I do have one slight issue though, my alarm light (drivers door red led) is on continuously now, whereas before it just blinked when the car was locked.

I'm not so worried about it aesthetically, just what it means for battery life....

post-147168-0-69878500-1385213061_thumb.

post-147168-0-47255300-1385213085_thumb.

Any ideas?

Edited by psynegy

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psynegy

I found the cause of the solid red LED! I had replaced an H01/S0001 with the H02/S0002 model, and whilst everything else worked fine, as soon as I put an H01 model in, it was fixed.

I guess that settles it, it has to be replaced like for like!

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GibboUK

Hello!

I've bought all the needed parts to get this working on my Polo 9N3. After looking through the thread multiple times and other pages on the internet I assumed it could be done. What I seemed to have missed though is anybody with a 9N3 actually coding a new transponder.

When trying to connect to the ECU with VagTacho 3.01 I am getting an access denied error. I understand it is expected to happen up to 10 times before you get access granted. However, i've been way over this limit! I'm not even getting as far as the error messages that others have posted in this thread. Mine is more like this...

Connecting VDO New...
OK
(Code and Kombi etc etc)
Check for VDO tacho...
Tacho is VDO! Try to log in... Please wait!
Software Version: (Software version)
!!! Access DENIED !!!

If the actual Kombi line and software version would help, i'll be able to get hold of them no probs.

Unfortunately, I tried to avoid using VagTacho in the first place by transferring the transponder from my spare key and ended up breaking it and theres no way I'm going to attempt the removal on my last key!!

Any help or advice on what to do next? Thanks

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psynegy

It did take several attempts, and I'm pretty sure that's exactly what it said for me. Did you check with the VAG-COM that the immobiliser was unlocked?

If you're not prepared to try opening up your last key (fair enough), you'll have to take it to an official VW place to have them coded, as only they are able to retrieve the PIN (and they will most likely not tell you what it is even afterwards...)

Good luck...!

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GibboUK

Hey, thanks for the quick reply.

The immobiliser light turned off on the dash but i've not checked with VAG-COM. Do you think its worth looking with VCDS for any settings for the immobiliser?

Also, after a bit more looking i'm wondering if a newer version of VAG-TACHO would help such as v5.0...

I have a feeling though its going to be the expensive route of going to VW

If I get anywhere i'll be sure to report back!

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psynegy

It's not the light that needs to turn off, follow this guide I wrote for myself:

Check Immobiliser lock (in VCDS/VAG-COM):

a. Module

b. 17. Instruments

c. 08. Measuring Blocks

d. Group 24

e. Any numbers displayed in fields 1-4 represent the time in minutes that must be counted down before the Immobilizer is unlocked.

f. If all fields are 0, you can continue, otherwise come out of the module, and wait the specified time with the ignition still on.

Edited by psynegy

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GibboUK

Cheers for the guide mate. I'll give it a go tomorow and see what happens.

Fingers crossed!

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GibboUK

I've tried again today without much luck.

In VCDS when I follow your guide, I get the following message: "Group 24, Error: Group 24 Not Available" (Each in its own box)

I've been through a few of the different groups and most of them say the same thing except lower numbers which don't seem relevant.

Instead of going to Instruments, I tried going to Immobiliser and tried Group 24 there and all the boxes had 0 in them.

I tried using VagTacho again anyway and most of the time was returned the same message. In the memory buffer that looks like it shows Hexadecimal numbers they are all 00.

On one occasion however I thought I was getting somewhere as I got past the Check For Seed Key line but was then faced with something along the lines of "Unable to calculate Seed-Key". I made a note of the message but forgot to save it. I've been in the car for around 30 minutes trying to connect without getting anywhere.

Additional info if any use however, my Immobiliser seems to be VDO V08. Not sure if thats the same for everyone else?

I've found out my Soft Coding.

And in VagTacho in the menu bar it says "USB to K-Line Interface Connected. ID 0858738D60" so I know theres a connection.

Is this looking like a lost cause?

Cheers

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GibboUK

Just an update. When I click ECU Info I get the following:

Reading Unit Info...
6Q0920903JX KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDO V08

When I connect to ECU New I get the following every time:

Connecting VDO New...
OK
6Q0920903JX KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDO V08
Check for VDO tacho...
Tacho is VDO! Try to log in... Please wait!
Software Version: VQMJ07LM
!!! Access DENIED !!!

I've also tried connecting to the other ECU's without any luck except for Audi A4/A6/A8 VW Immo Box(Megamos/Kostal) which tells me to "Go Ahead!" but I can't read the pin because i'm guessing its not stored in the immo box and instead in the dash.

I've even tried using VagTacho 2.5 but it can't find the cable. I'm guessing because i'm using a 3.01 cable?

Any further help would be appreciated - Close to giving up on it now!

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psynegy

Just an update. When I click ECU Info I get the following:

Reading Unit Info...

6Q0920903JX KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDO V08

When I connect to ECU New I get the following every time:

Connecting VDO New...

OK

6Q0920903JX KOMBIINSTRUMENT VDO V08

Check for VDO tacho...

Tacho is VDO! Try to log in... Please wait!

Software Version: VQMJ07LM

!!! Access DENIED !!!

I've also tried connecting to the other ECU's without any luck except for Audi A4/A6/A8 VW Immo Box(Megamos/Kostal) which tells me to "Go Ahead!" but I can't read the pin because i'm guessing its not stored in the immo box and instead in the dash.

I've even tried using VagTacho 2.5 but it can't find the cable. I'm guessing because i'm using a 3.01 cable?

Any further help would be appreciated - Close to giving up on it now!

Tricky.

Personally, I think your best bet is to carefully swap the transponder over (which is what I did before I got VagTacho working), but, you are a bit buggered if you muff it up...

I suppose, give a garage a ring, see what the cost would be to just add the new key. (I really would hope this wouldn't be that expensive, it really is a 5 minute job if they have access to the PINs easily)

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GibboUK

Cheers for the reply.

I've got a friend who knows someone at VW and I can get a new key for around £40 (unsure if its a remote key) but thats something that has to be ordered direct from the factory - no codes involved.

I'll have a look at some garages or auto-locksmiths nearby for quotes.

To be honest, think that might be my best bet like you said. If I get anywhere i'll be sure to post back!

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cunning plan

QUOTE (StringsOnFire @ Thursday 15th July 2010 - 10:53am) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>

A guide as titled. Also available to download as a word document, I'll attach it tonight.

....

Congrats! You now have full VW central locking, not a third party in sight!

First of all, thank you for taking time to write this up, very useful and helpful.

However, I think there is some confusion between simply adding Remote Central Locking using your existing transponder-crystal and recoding a new transponder-crystal to work with your car's ECU+immobiliser. Or at least, there is confusion for me! confused.gif

I appreciate you have written it this way as you have followed it through as a complete process, but thinking about it, if you are re-using your transponder-crystals from the original key for the car, you should be able to skip sections.

Please correct me if I am wrong, but perhaps the guide needs to be split into sections such as:

Section 1-5

'Recoding a new key transponder-crystal to your immobiliser'

Section 6

'Fitting a factory Remote Central Locking Comfort Unit'

Section 7-8

Coding the Comfort Unit to work with your car's ECU+ Immobiliser

Section 9

Programming the new Remote key fob to work with the Remote Central Locking Comfort Unit

I am pretty sure I have understood this correctly and the above is right? redface.gif

So this means, that IF you are going to use the transponder from your original key or the original spare key, you can skip section 1-5.

Then follow this instead:

Buy:

  • Remote Fob and blank blade: Part #1JO 959 753 DA (MUST be ‘DA’ model to work with the ECU!)
  • Remote Central Locking Comfort Unit Part #6Q0 959 433 E
Then:
  • Get new blade cut to the same pattern as the original key.
  • Swap transponder-crystal from the original key (or spare) - this now should mean the key will work with the ECU+Immobiliser and unlock the doors using the key, it just won't remotely unlock them.
  • Follow section 6 above to remove old Central Locking Control Unit and replace with Comfort Central Locking Control Unit
  • Follow section 7-8 above to code the comfort unit to your car's ECU+Immobiliser.
  • Follow section 9 above to code the remote key to your Comfort Central Locking Control Unit (as the transponder-crystal will allow mating to the comfort unit and car ECU+Immobiliser.
Thoughts please?

Thought I would follow up on this and contribute to the forum.

I went ahead with my thoughts above, which is my understanding of the process posted by the original poster, modified to be clearer and more logical, specifically regarding the recoding of the transponder.

  • I purchased a flip-key from eBay with part number: 1JO 959 753 DA for around £20: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1J0-959-753-DA-FLIP-HEAD-KEY-REMOTE-TRANSMITTER-FOR-VOLKSWAGEN-PASSAT-/261195704997?nma=true&si=NOdHn7vD1ByAYu7vCKYTpA05gCs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
  • I then purchased a Comfort Unit (Central Locking Unit) with part number 6Q0 959 433 E, again from eBay for about £45. The one I purchased was from a 5 door Seat Ibiza. *See note 1 below.
  • The Flip key arrives uncut, so the first thing was to get it cut. Do NOT bother with *Timpsons see note 2 below. I called my local automotive lock-smith who had a van with a work-shop set-up in the back of it. I gave him the keys and he cut them for about £7 each if I remember correctly.
  • Next, I took the transponder out from the existing spare key ready to put it into the flip-key (Note, no recoding of the transponder is necessary as it already belongs to the car, it is already paired with it).
  • I followed this guide to fit the newly cut key-blank into the flip-key, and whilst the key was open, I fitted the transponder from the point above:
  • So, by now, the flip key should have all of the functions of the original key, minus the remote locking. It should open the doors and start the engine.
  • Next step is to add the remote locking function, which means fitting the 'Comfort Unit'. This is a right bitch to get to, on a RHD 9N Polo, it is located under the dash, so you have to get into the footwell and look up to spot it. It is slightly angled and nearer the centre console than the door if that helps. I found pushing the drivers chair all the way back helped. Once you get the old one out, simply plug the new one in.
  • At this point, you now have a key that can manually unlock the doors and start the engine and the car is capable of receiving a remote signal, you now have to pair your new remote key with the Comfort Unit. *See Note 3
  • To pair the remote key with the Comfort Unit, I followed this guide:

That was it, job done.

Total cost around £72. However, when it is pouring with rain outside and you can check if the car is locked from your window or when you have your hands full of shopping bags and you need to unlock the car, that is £72 well spent ;)

The only thing that does not work is the boot-release, but even if it did work, you would still have to pull the boot up anyway, so not a major issue.

The remote has a good range and the indicators flash on lock and unlock. The Comfort Unit which I bought had a pre-programmed setting to lock all doors when going above around 7/8mph. This seemed like a nice feature, so we have left it on. There are a few more settings you can play with, but I would not bother investing in the VAGCOM stuff when it is far easier to find your local independent specialist who should ask for 'beer money' to reconfigure the unit for you. E.G. To Turn off auto-locking, or going from 2-door locking to 4-door locking etc.

I hope this helps someone else and thanks to the original poster 'StringsOnFire' for all of part information and proving that it can be done.

Notes
*Note 1
If you purchase a Comfort Unit that was installed in a 2-door car and yours is a 4-door, you will need to get the unit recoded, which is where the VAGCOM process comes in. I did not want the hassle of doing this, so I made sure the unit I bought was from a 4-door car to match our 4-door Polo.
*Note 2 - Timpsons
They will not cut a HAA / flip key unless you buy one directly from them. They say this due to cheap eBay keys being made of poor quality metal which can damage their machines and the lock in the car, so they will not guarantee it. However, when you ask how much one of their HAA keys is along with cutting, you quickly realise why they do not want you coming in with a £1.99** HAA key blank then paying them a low amount to cut the key, when they can tell you a load of rubbish to get you to buy one of their key-blanks and also pay to have it cut.
I am sure you could argue that paying a low amount to get a 'Cheap Chinese' key cut against paying for a Timpsons key cut, which hypothetically could be £5 Vs £50, Timpsons has decided that it is not worth absorbing all of the potential issues of keys breaking off in locks, people suing them for key broken in ignition etc. That is Timpsons' commercial decision to make. However, I have an official 'UK HAA Blade' and a 'cheap Chinese' blade, both of which have been cut and they work absolutely fine whilst looking identical. I really do think it was a move to make more money from the average consumer against the rise in cheap, accessible parts online and knowledgeable customers who have researched first.
It's a shame you can't scientifically prove where Timpsons source their HAA key-blanks from. I would be willing to bet it's a country in the East.
**HAA Key Blank on its own
*Note 3
I think there has been some confusion with this in previous posts I have read regarding this topic. The Transponder in the key has nothing to do with the remote locking process, it controls the engine immobiliser, but not the doors. Once paired correctly, the remote key sends a signal to the Comfort Unit which then unlocks the doors. Once the key is in the ignition, the Transponder sends a signal to the immobiliser sensor to turn off. The sensor is usually located near the ignition barrel.
This guide is for educational purposes only, I am not liable if you blow-up your car or step on a kitten whilst attempting to follow it.
Edited by cunning plan

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Guest VRT

Just fitted this on mine today and the control unit was a right bitch to fit!!!! I had to remove the blue switch on the clutch pedal as well as removing the air scoop from the footwell. If you look carefully the unit is slid into a plastic bracket/carrier which in turn fits into a metal bracket. The plastic bracket has two plastic clips that slot into the metal bracket. Between the two plastic clips there is a locking tab, I had to gently prize the locking tab to release the plastic bracket. After that dead easy to do. One thing I did was disconnect the battery to do the work. This is what I did with mine and anyone who follows what I did do so at their own risk.

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cunning plan

Just fitted this on mine today and the control unit was a right bitch to fit!!!! ....

Good detail there dude, I'm sure it will help someone. I could not remember much about the actual fitting of the comfort unit as I did it back in the summer. I remember it was awkward though!

I didn't remove the clutch switch, but you reminded me that I did remove the footwell air-vent.

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Guest VRT

As I found out today there is one last thing I had to do. The one touch electric window function had stopped working. I needed to reset the windows by rolling them all the way down and back up and then held the switch for a few seconds. They must need resetting after the battery is disconnected. Locking working a treat today, just needed a second flip key and a couple of ID48's programming up.

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GibboUK

Hey Everyone,

In my previous posts I had problems with Vag Tacho 3.01 and my 59 9N3 Polo.

VagTacho 3.01 will NOT work with this model. I was told that the data in the clocks is encrypted and thats why I couldn't access the code.

For anyone thinking of doing this with a 9N3, you will either need to CAREFULLY tranfer across your transponder, or do what I did and get somebody to code it for you.

I got my new key coded for £40 and was given the Immo Pin too. £30 more than a dodgy cable off eBay but its a small price to pay for a spare key if you've already broken yours!

For anyone wondering, the ID48 transponders work just fine also.

Thanks for all the help and i'll be installing my new convenience unit and getting the remote working tomorow. Cheers!

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StringsOnFire

Just checked, I had VagTacho 2.5 at the time of writing the guide - it's possible v3 wasn't around then

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GibboUK

I knew I was taking a risk by following it. I assume the rest of the process will work fine so cheers for the guide! :smile:

Just giving a heads up for potential future users

I read through this thread and other threads of 9N3 users getting it working but what I didn't check was if they programmed the keys themselves - after checking, it turns out they all transferred their transponders so thats where I went wrong

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designer

Sorry for what may seem like a silly question, but I just wanted to check that you use the same CCU ( #6Q0 959 433 E ) for a 9N3 polo or is that part just for 9N polos?

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