Ok here's what I am trying to do:

Run 16v engine on separate loom to my Mk2, with the 6N clocks inside the Mk2 dash.

I will use the Mk2 loom for all body electrics and lighting etc. and the 6N loom (late spec) for just the engine management, fuel pumps and clocks.

Basically, I'm getting a bit confused and not sure where to start. I've narrowed the 6N loom down to the 10 fuses that will be needed. I have the keys and immobiliser to tuck behind the dash.

Is it best to strip out all the unecessary wiring from the back of the fusebox and trace it through the loom?? (won't be using any creature comforts from 6N screw that) Or should I just chuck the entire loom unmolested behind the dash and hope that nothing goes wrong? It will be fed from the ignition barrel of the Mk2 loom, and for the clocks I will splice the Mk2 feeds for LH/RH indis/lights/handbrake/main beam etc etc.

I need some help here from someone who is more experienced in vehicle wiring, since I am a bit hesitant to jump straight in without checking things, I don't want to start a fire inside my car!

Edited 9 September, 201015 yr by Narrow_Lane

hi mate sorry i didn't reply to your pm, got it at work on my phone and thought it would be easier to reply to at home on my laptop... then forgot about it

your basically doing the same as i've done but also using the mk4 clocks, how i went about finding which wires i needed was to plug in what i needed into the loom (transponder box ect) then strip the loom of any of the plastic coverings ect so all i was left with was a big pile of wires and with the things i needed atached. at this point i shit myself and wished i hadn't started

after i got over the initial magnitude of what was in front of me i grabbed a roll of electrical tape and took it in turns tracing the wires from each of the things i needed right back to the fuse box slapping a bit of tape around them every now and then to keep them together. for example i'd start at the ignition switch and trace all the wires from it back to the fuse box, then move on to the immob box. once you have all the things you need tapped up it becomes clear which of the many wires you don't need, although don't do what i did and chop out the plug that the vag-com plugs into, i've now got a dodgy idle i can't reset because i got rid of that plug lol.

once you've got the loom down to just what you need it should be easy enough to splice the clocks in, and tbh i'd leave all the fuses and relays in the mk4 fuse box until you have it all up and running, the last thing you want to do is spend ages trying to fix a problem only to find you had taken the wrong fuse out lol. once you know every thing works then tidy it all up and take out any fuses and what not that are uneeded

i've got some pics from when i did it that i can upload but it'll be tomorrow now as i need to get off to bed soon mate

thank you this is soooo much help :) I'm doing the loom tomorrow morning so gonna be up early stripping the black tape off it.. I am pretty confident I took out the right fuses, I checked them on the Haynes manual and 100% sure I won't be needing the ones I took out, all lights and body electrics basically.

your method seems better, I was gonna strip off what I thought I didnt need first, but it makes more sense to plug everything in first instead, and mark what to keep! cheers again :)

the plug that the vag-com plugs into is only a couple of wires, I have a spare one I can send with some wire attached + I can see where it goes to if you want?

ok one thing about this loom that troubles me is I think the 8v immobiliser is different :S The plug is different and has an extra wire (red) which I guess is constant +ve?

Shall I just splice the proper connector in (the 16v interior loom I got is fucked)?? Man this is giving me a right headache getting close to scrapping the fucking car

scrap my last post if you read it, just reread your post and realized i misread it lol

just been through all my photo's and i have nothing that would help tbh, i can show you which plugs you need at the fuse box if it was an early loom you had but that's no good to you, i'll post it any way incase some one else needs it

and this was how the wiring looked when i first got the engine running in the mk3, after i knew it was ok then i tieded it up

i have no idea about any differences between 8 and 16v looms so i can't help you on that line mate but don't give up on this, it's a great conversion and you have all the stuff to finish it (and your doing it to a really good standard!), it just needs a little patients to work through the wiring

cheers for the reply bud, just had another stab at resurrecting the 16v loom and its not as bad as I thought, I have 90% of the wires all taped up and figured out

One quick question - there's a fuse for 'engine electrics' (Fuse 3 if they're the same) has a black (ignition switched) input and black/yellow output. This goes into a plug for the engine bay. Do I need it because I may have cut it by mistake :S My reasoning was all the black/yellow switched wires are for lighting/heating/body electrics but maybe I need it? Meh if worst comes to worst I can just reconnect it I guess, shall leave hte fuse out and reconnect if it doesnt start lol

The fuses which I have kept are:

F1 15A Engine control unit

F2 10A Engine control uni (petrol)

F3 7.5A Engine electrics (carbon filter solenoid valve - only needed if keeping carbon filter)

F4 15A Ignition coil

F8 15A Injectors, oxygen sensor

F9 15A Engine control unit

F10 15A Engine control unit (petrol)

F26 5A Instruments, immobiliser

F27 5A Self-diag., instruments, interior/luggage lights

F32 15A Fuel pump

The rest I double checked their functions and got rid. Stuff like ABS/horn/lights etc is handled by the existing loom.

Edited 11 September, 201015 yr by Narrow_Lane

Ok bit of research has told me F3 is for carbon filter solenoid valve. Won't be needing that

I'm curently doing this aswell, on a late spec loom and i feel your pain! I am going to run the interior loom and splice it into my gt's rear loom and hope that all goes well. I still have to untape and re-route all the wires as I'm sure you are finding out that nothing is the right shape, and wiring looms are not easy to shape!

Haha yea glad someone else is sharing the pain! The late spec is not fun. I've got most of it figured out, just about ready to start installing it once I have found the rest of my electrical tape...!

So you're going to run the whole loom then? and just splice boot electrics? That's a big task if you're using the Mk3 switches!

if that's what your doing unless your running mk4 clocks and switches your making a shit load of unnecessary work for your self

the more of the mk4 loom you use the more splicing and working out you will need to do, on mine it's only some thing like 5 wires but that's using the bare minimum on the mk4 loom

yea, I think for the ECU and diagnostics/fuel pump theres about 10 wires or so... obv more cos I'm using the clocks, they'll be easy to splice.

How did u supply the Mk4 loom with power? I know kinda which wires to splice at the ignition barrel, but do I get rid of the solid red +ve feed that would go to the Mk4 barrel? And I have the +ve feed to the fusebox thats fine. Just wondering how to physically splice the two together, whether I need extra wire for the increased current draw (shouldn't be much?)

Also black/red from the ignition switch - starter motor right? I can strip that out since I'm using the Mk2 starter wires.

Also black/red from the ignition switch - starter motor right? I can strip that out since I'm using the Mk2 starter wires.

I've given up! Splicing the loom to the boot wasnt too much of an issue but i have decided to go for a g40 engine bay loom to begin with to get everything running right, then will move on to a DTA S40 in the new year....

Also black/red from the ignition switch - starter motor right? I can strip that out since I'm using the Mk2 starter wires.

I've given up! Splicing the loom to the boot wasnt too much of an issue but i have decided to go for a g40 engine bay loom to begin with to get everything running right, then will move on to a DTA S40 in the new year....

JOE CAN YOU PLEASE RETURN MY PM MESSAGES OR text.