Might ask you to drill mine out at some point guy actually! You just reminded me you have that special drill :p

Ill buy a cheap shit pattern one then haha

nothing special about it, its just the right tool for the job

I'll dig the bit out and you can drill it yourself harris, my man with access to the lathes has retired

No worries mate ill let you know when it comes to it.

And Ash, try the bike carb threads.

Okay man,

Anyone give me the right amount to cut from a AFH Stainless mani if i swap to a mk3 sump?

Measure it ? lol.. the part the manifold runs past is still the same depth .

Measure it ? lol.. the part the manifold runs past is still the same depth .

I can't i've got a mate who works at a stainless welding place he's going to do it before i fit it.

Just jack car up and measure gap between manfold and sump ?

Not rocket science

Just jack car up and measure gap between manfold and sump ?

Not rocket science

I shal

Can the bottom end from a ARC engine be used?

Yes... they are basically the same as the AVY engine

Yup mine is an arc

I'm confused about something.

Having lost my last engine to low oil pressure from a duff block, thanks to some monkey cleaning the oil pump face with an angle grinder, I now find myself building a new one. Got a mint 2005 BCB and gonna use the whole engine. But I don't wanna bother with an 02 gearbox for now I'll stick with the 085 until the summer.

So I need a new 085 compatible block, which the AFH isn't. Reason being the water ways of the later heads cross with the oil ways of the AFH .

So this means the AVY water jacket collides with the AFH breather channels. A gasket alone won't act as a suitable bridge, the AVY gasket hunted certainly won't, so does someone wanna tell us how a 6n and 6n2 head/block can be mated without filling the oil sump with water..?

So are you saying the AVY/ARC Block shouldn't work with the AFH head?

Yes. I have here an AVY block and AFH head gasket and the water/oil ways collide big time.

I was to do it the other way around, but in box case its not possible. The AVY gasket would stop oil dripping into the water jacket as there's no pressure, but it would never stop the pressure of the coolant going into the crankcase.

So this 6n block now will need an AFH head and I'll have to get the AVY block skimmed so it doesn't suffer internal bleeding of the oil pump like last time, loosing me the entire head (seized cams and punched valves as a result, on the way to poloshow).

Leaving me bewildered at how anyone has managed to run an AFH head on an AVY block without filling the oil up with water. I've sold all my AFH heads so I can't check but for searching photos what the waterways look like. But my AVY has a waterway at each corner of the cylinder. The AFH block and gasket have three corners, the fourth is an oil way on cylinders 2, 3, 4.

I've got both a ARC bottom end and a AFH head... I'll look tonight and take pictures.. no offence but I really hope you are wrong! :)

Okay, I've found the answer. Pics of the AFH face show it has the small oil drain holes. Yes it only has three waterways instead of the four the AVY block has, but the other is simply blank. So the water pressure from the block has nowhere to go against the AFH head at the fourth water hole.

This isn't the case with 8v heads, which would not work on a later block. Also, unfortunately for me, the later head will not work with an earlier block.

The AFH head though does work with both late and early blocks. Its the only head that does.

Yes, that means its a false alarm. I knew it must be because Saf ran one for a start.

But as ever, VW change things from year to year, I've been thrown recently when I found an iron 1.0 block in a 6n I never knew existed, parts differ from year to year so I thought id found an issue.

I could get my head welded up and skimmed, but I think I'll save this AVY block instead. Just means half a mil shaved off the oil pump mounting face of the block.

Well I'm running an ARC/AFH hybrid, and it doesnt burn oil or use coolant, so mine must be magic haha.

You use the AVY gasket anyway as the afh one blocks off certain bits.

I compared thr avy gasket to the block and head when i built mine back up as i was curious too, and all looked well.

Just use a flat file on the oil pump face?

Yeah, when you put The AVY gasket to the AFH head you'll see that some of the coolant holes in the gasket just have solid metal behind them because the head is blank. This omits the problem.

The later heads are not blank there, so they have coolant chambers sitting halfway over the oil drain holes in the earlier block. No gasket can make for a suitable barrier, welding would be required.

AFH head on an AVY block - yes.

AVY head on an AFH block - no.

My method of using a 1.6 version of the AFH is a good one, omits the problems with the thread sizes for pulley and head bolts. Its good if you're using an AFH head at least. But its not good if you wanna use a later type head, as they just won't go onto the earlier casting.

Just use a flat file on the oil pump face?

Haha joker!

No. Its 40 quid for a skim by some place in Woburn Sands, if that prevents a repetition of another total engine failure within five miles then it will be worth it.

I dont see a problem with doing it like that. Will be pretty obvious when youv got it flat.

A gasket should take up the space anyhow

I've had no problems, Apart from it using a little bit of water, so might need to get the head looked at i think.

So... it has a problem.... lol

I gave the surface a clean, then coated it in permanent marker pen. Then I gave it a good going over with a large sharpening stone lubricated with soapy water. This was very revealing - the whole face showing up the original skimming marks through the ink almost like magic, when only wire-wheel marks were visible before.

Most of the damage is only around the outer seal line for the crankcase, some rigid grinding disc damage around a locating dowel (dunno what they were thinking with that), the small area that holds high pressure though was actually pretty good, finally got it all good after about twenty minutes of working it in a tactical pattern to ensure the whole face was evenly stoned. The ghost pattern from the original factory skim is still visible and very even so I'm confident. Its unbelievably smooth and shows as being ultra flat with a rule and feeler so this was probably better than a skim.

I don't think a file would have had quite the same result Eric, but you gave me the idea to use a stone.

Anyone with previous sucess fancy making me a stud for the idler or drilling the idler out for me? Had one stud made but the chap couldnt tell me the strength of it so i dont want to risk it

Has anyone concluded the best/ easiest way to do this?

The AFH block with 1.6 internals sounds good to me as it doesnt risk the roller stud snapping?
i dont understand how the 1.6 internals can be a direct fit to the 1.4 block ?

i haven't seen anything about the engine mounts for this, i assume if you use AFH some work will have to be done to fit in a lupo whereas the AVY block method will bolt straight in?

What high lift cams do people use and is there much to do on the electrical side?

There was some one local to me who had done this and ran jenvy itbs i remember he had a decent power output and I'm looking for something similar :)
i've done engine work before but just standard parts, its the mix and matching that confuses me a little.

Using the AFH block is the easiest (maybe) as you basically just swap out the internals and put in the 1.6 ones. There is no issue with the relay roller as its an AFH item you use. The 1.6 gets it extra capacity by the longer stroke not wider pistons.

So this longer stroke works in the AFH still?
Assuming stroke is made larger by a bigger crank rotating circumference and shorter conrods?
How would the AFH wire into my car? Lupo currently with a AFK engine, similar sensors etc? almost plug and play?