Thanks to all those who have done it before, and left bits of info scattered around and helped me out personally during the process, in particular these guys, Pinguspolo, Mitchell, Mikeymk, Skodaboy, Jez.

What you need

Essentials

Headbolt - 036103384B ( x 10 - for 1 cylinder head)

Polo GTI Headgasket 036103383Q ? isn't it 036103383AB

Metal Inlet Manifold Gasket 036129717G

AFH Cambelt 036109119H

AFH Tensioner 036109243J

AFH Relay Roller - 036109244

Water Pump - 036121005D/036121005MX

If Required

Polo GTI/AFH Sump Gasket Sealant - D1764004A2

AFH Cylinder Head Cover Gasket - 036103483 D & 036103483 G

ARC/AVY Piston Ring Set 036198151C ( x 4 - 1 set per piston) - If required

ARC/AVY Crankshaft Bearing Set 036198491

Alternator belt HB680G (Halfords) - For Mk1-3 Conversions using the Mk4 Alternator

Euro Car Parts - 6pk675 - ContiTech Drive Belt - Part No.: 202771555

Alternative Suppliers

GSF

132VG0180 TIMING BELT IDLER PULLEY PO 1.4 16V 95> 21.95

170VG0140 WATER PUMP PO 1.4 16V AFH Eng. 95> 26.75

Considerations

Headbolts

6n 1.0 AER & Non AVY GTI lumps have the correct length headbolts

6n Polo 1 Litre

036103384B

bolt, with multi-spilne socket head

M9X1,25X138 / AER,ALL

Lupo GTI

036103384B

bolt, with multi-spilne socket head

M9X1,25X138 / AHW,AKQ,APE, AUA,BBY,AFK, ANM,AQQ,AUB

Polo GTI

036103384E

bolt, with multi-spilne socket head

M9X1,25X97 / AVY

The correct part from GSF is

01163

CYLINDER HEAD BOLT

PO 1.4 AFK/AHW/APE/AUA/AUB Engines 99> & PO 1.0 AER Engine 96>99

£2.00 each and you need 10.

Relay roller

part number 036109244

the guys made me a bar threaded to 10mm at one end to fit into the block and 8mm to fit through the sleeve of the roller, it was impossible to drill through for guys with thousands of pounds worth of machinery so dont bother trying it at home, I'm glad i didnt bother!

see below

there was a way to grip the beast, but even with the beastiest drill at thier disposal, it merely just tickled the surface and wouldnt make a dent, so they put there heads together for 5 and came up with a turned down threaded rod which is tres perfect for my needs!

i can confirm this, i've tried to drill one out in a big badass lathe, clamped the sleeve in the chuck and using the tailstock chuck/drill and even with cobalt drills and plenty of cutting oil it barely even tickles the surface, it's because the sleeve has been nitride hardened which is the same way gudgeon pins are done, if you could drill through the surface layer it would probably be quite soft underneath.. tbh i can't believe they would go to the effort of nitriding a component like this... i think i'm going to have to make up a threaded bar like the op with M10 one end and M8 the other end... or the other option i'e thought about it drilling and tapping the hole in the block and putting an m8 insert in there

Headgasket

Polo GTI Headgasket 036103383Q

i've also discovered that the AFH cylinder head gasket is no good for it, it will physically fit, and all the water ways etc line up, plus the oil feed it fine... but the 3 oil drainback slots at the front are a slightly different shape on AFH blocks so you need to use the polo gti avy head gasket to fit it onto the avy block

Fuelling & Management

I leave that up to you, but there are carbs, independant throttle bodies, or the standard EFI. I cover fitting bike carbs to this setup, albeit for a 1.4 16v here.

Some reference threads

1.4 16v AFH mit 1.6 16v Lupo GTI Bottom End, PikeyTech® Conversion underway

Mk1-3 Polo 1.4 16v FAQ + Conversion Guide, & General AFH on Bike Carb Guide.

Fitting bike carbs onto a mk3, Parts needed

some pictures

Enjoy!

PS. I take NO account for mis-information, accept no liability for any damage caused to your engine, yourself, or any third-party based on anything in this guide.

As always, it is ENTIRELY AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Edited 8 November, 201213 yr by mark_crox
added some bits in red

Sticky this shizzle! Great fountain of knowledge as ever saf!

spot on saf!

hope you don't mind saf, but seeing as you linked in to one of my pics i thought i'd add some info to this thread..

polo gti (avy) has a cast alloy sump, and there is very limited clearance for the exhaust downpipe

so i swapped mine for a 1.6 8v (aee) pressed steel sump, direct fit, but you can't use the sump bolts from the alloy sump as they are too long, so you need the bolts with the steel sump too

for those sticking with the standard efi gear, you can use the one-piece intake manifold and gasket from polo gti(avy).. then the standard AFH throttle body fits on using the AVY throttle body gasket..

the polo gti uses drive-by-wire so the little L shaped bracket needs to be added for the throttle cable, the holes are NOT drilled or tapped so you have to do that yourself, the bracket is from a german spec only polo with AJV engine code and the part nuumber for that bracket is 036129785E and it's £4 from the dealer..

i've also found that the engine runs a lot better using the normal AFH orange injectors rather than the blue ones from the AVY engine

custom stud for timing belt idler pulley... the M10 thread in the engine block is only 20mm deep.. so i made mine with 20mm of M10x1.5 thread, then the 8mm section is 65mm long with only the last 20mm or so threaded to M8x1.25

nope dont mind dude, the more info the better, this can get faq'd in a bit to help point people to when they invariably ask the question

but as ever, theres many ways to skin a cat, and this isnt the only way.

is the steel sump shallower? therefore the oil markings would be wrong on the dipstick? i was just pondering this today as I'm sure it was, and I've also fitted a steel sump to the current lump

oh and another one, how tight does the relay roller nut have to be, i was worried that if i over-tightened it, that it would stop the pulley from turning. I've got a torque wrench but just dont know the setting! ta dude

Edited 14 September, 201016 yr by grungeisdead

top: polo gti (avy) cylinder head bolt

bottom: polo 1.0 (aer) cylinder head bolt

shown with AER bolt poking through... the AVY bolt it more or less flush with the surface which is no good for obvious reasons

oh and another one, how tight does the relay roller nut have to be, i was worried that if i over-tightened it, that it would stop the pulley from turning. I've got a torque wrench but just dont know the setting! ta dude

doesn't matter mate, so long as it's good and tight.. it won't stop the roller from working becuase the steel bush in the centre is solid, the sealed bearing runs on the outside of it

edit: i get sick and tired of people asking the same questions every day too!

Edited 14 September, 201016 yr by SkodaBoy

must use the AVY gasket too, the 3 large oil drainback slots at the top in this pic are a slightly different shape to the earlier AFH block

notice inbetween number 1+2 exhaust ports, and direcly under number 4 exhuast port is a small 'tab' that sticks out from the gasket, although it's not vitally important to do so, i trimmed these off

just as an aside note to this, when installing the camshafts, the pic above shows them in roughly the TDC position, ie; number 4 inlet opening, number 4 exhaust closing

Edited 14 September, 201016 yr by SkodaBoy

I had a BCB engine instead of an AVY, which id got from a late MK4 Golf. This wasn't suitable for the Polo gearbox,so i simply took the internals and put them in the AFH block.

This means all otherwise standard AFH parts are used,including the standard relay pulley bolt,head bolts and head gasket.

I believe this is the best and easiest way - just put the AVY crank,oil pump,rods and pistons in the AFH block (if the AVY crank pulley isn't wide enough for the belt,use one from a Golf 1.4 16v as these are and fit the crank properly. The AFH ones I've found did not seat properly,so dont use these). This enables you to fit new shells/rings etc if you need,give the bores a gentle de-glaze with fine stones,but little else.

It also means you keep the AFH engine number but dont be tempted to keep quiet about it for cheaper insurance and tax disc. The DVLA only need a letter,and insurers are well aware of the biro in the spark plug hole trick to find if they can save a few grand if it all goes baccy bong.

Edit three years later just to add, I now run a full BCB engine but it's in an AVY crank case. This means later design head, twin belts, etc.

I think it's the best engine yet, but here's a 6 min video where I explain why the 1.6 isn't necessarily the one to have..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-tsmuk3CP10&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Edited 20 December, 201312 yr by MikeyMK

I had a BCB engine instead of an AVY, which id got from a late MK4 Golf. This wasn't suitable for the Polo gearbox,so i simply took the internals and put them in the AFH block.

This means all otherwise standard AFH parts are used,including the standard relay pulley bolt,head bolts and head gasket.

yes, quite right, some of the mk4 golf blocks have a different bellhouse bolt pattern for the later 02k/02j gearboxes...

the only advantage of using an AVY block is that they have spray jets under the pistons unlike most of the other small block engines, which is more benificial for cooling a highly stressed/thrashed engine.

i'm i'm honest if I was going to build up another one i'd almost certainly use a whole AFH engine and just swap the crank and pistons, it makes sense to use 'standard' parts to build an engine rather than mixing and matching bits to build a hybrid, i only did it that way down to being pure lazy

How does keeping the AFH block and swapping pistons affect compression guys?

so doing it mikeys way or safs way would give the same kind of gains?

Also what sort of power increase would this give if done to a stock afh (using standard afh injection ect) would you be looking at any where near standard GTI out put?

Deck heights are the same,so compression is the same whichever block you use.

If you run 1.6 litres you must fuel 1.6 litres. If you dont adjust the AFH fueling to suit the extra capacity you'll run lean with meltdown as a result.

well its already died! the machined rod for the relay roller, failed and sheered off, leaving me in the same situation as with the previous engine!

on the plus side, the machinist managed to drill out the relay roller using a beast of a milling machine, so its now a M10 threaded bar which i will be replacing with a hi-tensile bolt.

anyway damage seemed minor, drilled out the sheered end of the rod, fitted new relay roller and retensioned everything up, car wouldnt start up, starter motor just whirrs like mad (tried two and tried smacking it with a hammer) and we tested two cylinders, no compression at all, not even a smidge.

so its currently up at the workshop and will be dropped back up off at mine tomorrow, off out to go dissect the old afh lump to see what damage what caused by the incident at the pod.

great success =D

naaaaat

If you run 1.6 litres you must fuel 1.6 litres. If you dont adjust the AFH fueling to suit the extra capacity you'll run lean with meltdown as a result.

sorry but that is rubbish, i've done roughly 6k miles in mine, and i don't exactly tickle it either, I thrash the living shit out of it!! and the adaptive learning of the AFH ecu copes with it very well, it runs well using either the AFH or AVY injectors but in my opinion it's better on the AFH ones..

there's only one place in the rev range (2500 ish) where it runs a smidge lean at full throttle only

and above all it's not melted down yet!!

Edited 14 September, 201016 yr by SkodaBoy

Good work saf. Get all them pictures and info backed up in word or else one day they will be lost in cyberspace.

took me ages to find this again! get it sticky'd asap!!!

very valuable information that shouldnt get lost in the depths of clubpolo

Thanks for this info! Great resource! You've just gone and fueled my imagination with project ideas wilhich will skint me! Cheers guys! Haha!

What bhp you looking at on this bad boy?

Also skoda boy the steel sump on the aee is it the same as the aex etc? As I think I have a couple and may be of use to you guys?

Good work saf. Get all them pictures and info backed up in word or else one day they will be lost in cyberspace.

done and done my son =D

took me ages to find this again! get it sticky'd asap!!!

very valuable information that shouldnt get lost in the depths of clubpolo

this threads only been around for a week! and its already been pinned! the thread your thinking off, is linked to at the end of the first post.

it'll be lost in the depths of the FAQ's instead

Thanks for this info! Great resource! You've just gone and fueled my imagination with project ideas wilhich will skint me! Cheers guys! Haha!

What bhp you looking at on this bad boy?

Also skoda boy the steel sump on the aee is it the same as the aex etc? As I think I have a couple and may be of use to you guys?

With the set of shrick cams that were fitted, I would have hoped around the 150 mark, going on a target of a 22bhp increase of the power of a standard afh, with a well setup bank of cbr600 fx fys iirc on mark_croxs mk2 1.4 16v.

but the figure could be anything really, its irrelevant, it was plenty fast enough for the shell before so anything extra is just an added bonus =]

Well if a standard AFH can be raised to 1.6 litres and run properly with just 1.6 crank/rods/pistons then that's great. Credit to the fuel system for being flexible enough to handle it.

Now this is out of the bag,i can see the engine being even more sought after for use in Polos from '75-'99.

£700 for a complete 120-odd bhp 1.6i 16v engine? Who wouldn't?

whats the benefit of using a afh head on the avy? with the gti engine does it limit you to what geabox you can use?

whats the benefit of using a afh head on the avy? with the gti engine does it limit you to what geabox you can use?

the afh heads flow slightly better due to the increase valve inclination angles becuase the cams are further apart.. also using the afh head means you can use a 'normal' polo dizzy which means it will work with older engine management systems.. the avy head/dizzy could be modified to accept the early dizzy but it seems like ballls ache to me.. apart from that there are no real benefits from doing it

whats the benefit of using a afh head on the avy? with the gti engine does it limit you to what geabox you can use?

the afh heads flow slightly better due to the increase valve inclination angles becuase the cams are further apart.. also using the afh head means you can use a 'normal' polo dizzy which means it will work with older engine management systems.. the avy head/dizzy could be modified to accept the early dizzy but it seems like ballls ache to me.. apart from that there are no real benefits from doing it

far enough. well I'm hopefully going for megasquirt ecu on mine. but my car has a stage 3 head so its better for that reason to keep it i guess