been rolling roaded today folks, this is what mine is putting out.. bog standard engine with stainless 4-2-1 manifold running standard afh injection gear/ecu and 'blue' gti injectors

thats well good mate! chuffed for you. deffo means 150 is achievable with higher lift cams and bike carbs!

thanks for sharing =D

i think i might have mentioned it before, there is a lean missfire around 2.5k which can be seen in the torque plot above... i reckon that engine is capable of making more power as it is with a plenum type manifold as I had to wind the ignition timing back to mask a throttle body v60 motor failure which happened the day before!!! had to drill a couple of holes in the throttle plate to get it to idle :-).. with the ignition in a more advanced position it is much more powerful in the higher rpm range...

edit: yes the camshafts are totally bog standard vw ones

Edited 14 November, 201015 yr by SkodaBoy

might be a stupid question but when building this, what do you do with torque settings? I'm guessin ull do the same as the 1.6 engine?

no, the avy lump uses M9 cylinder head bolts.. i'll have to look it up i can't remember it off the top of my head, but it's certainly not the same as the 1.6 8v engine or a afh valver

edit: exaclty as mikey says below

Edited 15 November, 201015 yr by SkodaBoy

M9 bolts are 30nm plus two rounds of quarter turns.

M11 bolts are 60nm plus two rounds of quarter turns.

Oops, bit of deleting going on, no loss you know how i chat shit anyway.

Edited 17 August, 201313 yr by MikeyMK

Cheers for the information Mikey - Every little helps.

I have to say the amount of PM's I get regarding this, has reduced dramatically which is a god-send, as some people upon reading this, deem it to be too much work.

As with most things in life, there are several ways to skin a cat, and building on of these engines, is no different.

But as with all guides on the internet, there is a disclaimer that we are not held responsible for any damage done to your own engines, though following any of the information in this guide.

It would also be nice as well, upon completion of your own build, just to drop thanks to those who took the time to create a write-up, as it spurs us on to write further guides.

Eventually we can get a wiki site up for polo technical information, to ensure that this information stays visible, to all to peruse, and implement, if they so choose!

looking forward to a catch up again fella!

The disclaimer's no more than common sense imo. No court's gonna pay you anything some dude has written to a universal audience,its my name on my advice only as far as my own motivation is concerned. This is life,we're all learning the hard way in the mud - and playing the blame game against other people is the moody way,you'll have a miserable life going down that road. Take what proves good,leave the hating behind or it will drag you down.

I like the sound of a more universal info share,even if its just a link to the site,these are good engines for various cars,they can be built for 6-speed gearboxes in ally or iron form and I've considered one in a Scirocco or Jetta for the mrs.

The RR day is only several weeks away and i hope to be there,and this time not at 14:30.. I'll have more time in 2011 thanks to the work situ so it wont be long before I'm at meets again either way and i hope to cover more ground - we need to get the clubpolo calendar filled in,and with lots of different occasions (classic,modified,new,mixed marques etc).

Anybody done this with a subframe fitted?

Any sump clearance issues?

Just one more question, did you look at using the afh conrods or the aee conrods at all. I'm just wondering if they are completely useless and wouldn't work or you just didn't try them so I need to look for myself? I'm trying to work out my plan for doing this and this is the last peice of the puzzle. My cam belt has just given up and I need to strip the engine anyway so it's the perfect time to upgrade

You have to use a 1.4 8v, 1.4 16v or 1.6 16v block. The AEE is too tall.

For a 1.6 16v engine you must use 1.6 16v con-rods as all others are too long.

is there a definate answer on what block codes are ally castings?

There probably is,but i dont know of a list.

I've got a couple at home,one is an AUD from a 6n2 1.4 8v and the other is from an Ibiza but i cant remember the code.

You'd have to be a retard not to know which is ally and which is iron just by looking at them though,different casting method shows in a very different appearance.

I've gone back to iron. Both the ally blocks were healthy, yet smoked when run in very high compression 1.6 16v carb'd state, so they didn't prove strong enough. Fine in iron blocks.

Safe, cheers, yeah I'm aware of the differences, just wanted to know roughly what vehicles were likely to have them.

However on your advice i won't bother, I plan to run high comp with hot cams and weber 40s, think I will stick to an afh casting.

Many thanks.

I'm picking up an avy lump tonight with the intention of doing this conversion, the plan is to take mikeys route and build engine B in his right up. It all seems pretty straightforward but the only thing that's concerning me is the crank pulley...

Engine B: 1.4 16v Golf4. You need the wide type,not fitted to some later 16v engines. Be vigilant you're using one that fits the crank properly,as a mistake here can result in cambelt failure. It should slot on - if it doesn't centre well or seat tight,if it doesn't stay on centred when you take your hand away,its not a match.

Obviously the avy pulley is too thin for the belt but how far off fitting is the afh one? It's just saf makes no mention of which one he used? Is there a way of modifying the afh pulley to fit or is it a no starter?

Just trying to work out my options because I can't see it being easy finding a mk4 golf that the owner is willing to sell just the pulley off, most places/people prefer to sell engines complete

Ah the avy crank pulley is the same as the afh on on width so works with the afh timing belt

Spent the night pulling both engines apart lol

on the plus side, the machinist managed to drill out the relay roller using a beast of a milling machine, so its now a M10 threaded bar which i will be replacing with a hi-tensile bolt.

Beast of a milling machine is not essential you just need to use the correct drill bit. Old boy at work just ploughed straight through mine using a pillar drill with a carbide bit

top: polo gti (avy) cylinder head bolt

bottom: polo 1.0 (aer) cylinder head bolt

shown with AER bolt poking through... the AVY bolt it more or less flush with the surface which is no good for obvious reasons

Is there any reason the AFH head bolts wouldn't work with this setup?

they are too big to fit in the avy block unless you drilled and tapped the block.

if you use an afh block with avy internals, you can use the afh head bolts

Ah sweet

I'm sticking with the avy block now saf, the less shit I fuck about with the less I can fuck up. Besides I was only going with the afh block because I believed all the hype about drilling out that relay roller

haha ladies and gentlemen we have a wiener :)

good luck g!

Suck my wiener

Another thing, the avy oil filter setup seems to have the base for a cooler attached, does this pipe into the coolant system and cool it with water or pump the oil out to an external air cooled setup?

Savaloy boy , think its water cooled?

Expansion tank 1

Heating system heat exchanger 2

Throttle valve control part 3

Lower coolant hose 4

Radiator 5

Upper coolant hose 6

Thermostat housing 7

Oil cooler 8

Cylinder block 9

Coolant pump 10

Intake manifold 11

Edited 13 July, 201115 yr by big burt

water cooled, fits to thermostat housing