How do you messure the rite amount to cut off the dipstick?

And mk3 sumps have same bolt spacing as the gti bottom end i guess ?

As the AEE sump fits onto the avy bottom end and nick put a mk3 one on his so yeah think just answered my own question lol

I'd change the whole dipstick tube mate.

The length varies both in the sump and the length of the tube, if you use a mk3 sump, dipstick and dipstick tube it will be right.

Pickup wise, measure the depth difference in the sumps where the pickup sits as remove that amount, therefore it will be submerged correctly and have the right gap between the pickup and the sump

Sumps are not simple regarding bolt patterns, I'm sure I've found four bolt patterns on 6n/2. I have an AFH sump and it doesn't match my AVY block, yet has done for others. I've had the same problem with mismatched shallow sump for AEE.

Engines of the same code differ in spec from one to another, I've been caught on sumps more than I can remember, so always check alignment first.

Do a search, I was reading an old thread the other day where someone mentioned they had done it but can't remember their user name

As has been mentioned several times in this thread the block and head have locating dowels to line them up. Even with the thicker afh bolts the tolerances between the holes and the bolts are so big that the bolts alone couldn't be relied upon to line the head up true. The problem with the thinner bolts has nothing to do with head movement, its that the bolts can move about in the hope while being torqued and as a result could possibly give uneven loads across the head.

And please Eric take it to a professional to be drilled and tapped, its not something you can do with a black and Decker hand drill, well you could but the chances of not fucking up at least one hole is pretty slim. They all have to be perfectly square and again going to deep will scrap the block, its not something you get a second chance at.

Edited 13 November, 201213 yr by Mclovin

so you seriously think the 1.0 aer bolts are up to the job? I'm just not that convinced man. with them being a different size ect, itd affect the torque settings too. id be tempted to put an extra 1/8th of a turn or so on them. but it depends what you can get away with without them fucking up

so you seriously think the 1.0 aer bolts are up to the job? I'm just not that convinced man. with them being a different size ect, itd affect the torque settings too. id be tempted to put an extra 1/8th of a turn or so on them. but it depends what you can get away with without them fucking up

I'm not saying they are up to the job, all I'm saying is don't go attacking your head bolt holes with a hand held drill and expect your engine to be any good afterwards.

A few 1.6's have started smoking (mine and higgo's to name two) but for me at least it was a case of taking 2 halfs of two used engines, bolting them together and hoping for the best. I didn't do any rebuild stuff on either my top or bottom end so the smoking could of been caused by pretty much anything. I didn't do or check the rings, I didn't bother with valve stem seals and I didn't even bother checking the head for flatness because it was ok on the engine it came off. I have suspicion that this sort of behavior is more likely the reason so my 1.6 AFH's develop smoking issues

I think its worth pointing something out that a lot of people seem to be overlooking. Vw designed the avy to run the m9 head bolts, this engine uses a higher cr than the afh so there should be no issues with the bolts not being up to the job

I think its possible to do with a hand drill. I've done very similar things before.

Its the tapping thats gonna be difficult to get straight 10/10 times!

Personally I'd use the torque figure of the 1.0 mate. As that's what the bolts are for, the idea of the stretching is so they don't "relax" and lose tension like a single torque figure.

I think its possible to do with a hand drill. I've done very similar things before.

Its the tapping thats gonna be difficult to get straight 10/10 times!

Possible, probably. But its also possible to eat glass and not die from internal bleeding, it still doesn't make it a good idea

The holes need to be drilled bang on straight, not straight by eye. The difference of less than 1 degree could fuck shit up, after all you are using stretch bolts designed to he torqued up to specific settings. If you have a head bolt sitting slightly to cock the seat of that bolt isn't going to he sitting flat on the head and when you torque it up to the required torque it won't be the same as one that was straight because you would of used some of those torques to stretch the bolt straight. Having equal clamping load over the whole head is very important

As Harris says use the torque settings for the bolts you are using

Edited 14 November, 201213 yr by Mclovin

I'm with Guy, I really, really don't think this is a good idea. I'd tackle just about anything I think I can do, but drilling a block 10 times and hoping that they'll all come out perfect? If it's off by a degree at the block face, think how much it'll be off by the time it gets to the mounting face for the head of the bolt.

I'm with Guy, I really, really don't think this is a good idea. I'd tackle just about anything I think I can do, but drilling a block 10 times and hoping that they'll all come out perfect? If it's off by a degree at the block face, think how much it'll be off by the time it gets to the mounting face for the head of the bolt.

Still be the same angle. Just the linear displacement will be far greater.

By all means i'm not saying its a good idea, we had to do it as a last resort. I'd 100% bang it in a machine and do it myself.

Anyway, he ain't doing it anymore!

Yo on another note, Do i use avy rings when changing the avy internals to afh block ?

Or is it afh rings in ? Be good as there only 60 for a set :p

All the info I've found on the net says they are the same. I'm using afh rings in mine for the same reason

Would it not make more sense to get something to make the AFH holes smaller? Like some sort of shim?

If the smaller bolts are adequate, the only reason your doing this is to stop movement, then surely this would work?

Edited 14 November, 201213 yr by B-shaw

haha .. AVY isnt listed on the 16v ringset .

But he messaged me saying he could supply avy for 85 but the afh are like 55 lol

Would it not make more sense to get something to make the AFH holes smaller? Like some sort of shim?

If the smaller bolts are adequate, the only reason your doing this is to stop movement, then surely this would work?

Just looked at VagCat and the bocks of both AFH and AVY has parallel dowel pins which seem locate the head and block. Now as long as these are the same place on both blocks then the location should always be perfect.

So if you think the M8 (?) bolts from the AVY are strong enough you then might have to think how much of the head of the bolt is in contact with the AFH head to form the clamping force holding it down.

If its not a lot could washer be used to enlarge the bolt head size?

Awesome news. I will be keeping with the 1 litre headbolts in that case!

Do any of you have a link to the correct ones on gsf ect? I want to double check I'm about to order the correct ones.

Cheers guys

Dowels mother fucker

And yes the head has matching holes

just to simplify this in my dumb head, if am using an avy block am i right in saying the only real issues are head bolts, head gasket and bolt hole for the idler? my afh snapped a conrod but head is spot on and cant find another afh locally so thought about this 1.6afh. if these are the only real issues am going for it :-D and i know its mentioned before but so many people are in two minds about things so if someone says yes to this then thankyou :-)

yes.

to my understanding, you need an avy headgasket, idler thing drilled out to clearance for M10 (iirc) and 1.0 AER headbolts.

Edited 16 November, 201213 yr by erixtar1992

splended :-D will get cracking tommorow then. thanks for the reply will update how things go once a get started.

Can someone clarify compression ratios as to blocks and such?

So:

AVY/ARC bottom end complete with AFH head:

AVY/ARC bottom end complete with AFH head but using AFH pistons:

AVY/ARC crank/pistons/rods into AFH block with AFH head:

AVY/ARC crank/rods into AFH block with AFH head and AFH pistons:

What I remember is that AVY/ARC internals with an AFH block/head is pretty high anyway? And I know using AFH pistons raises it again..

Didn't know if AFH pistons with AFH block/head just stroking it with the crank/rods would be really high?

Because I thought about using an over bored AFH engine but just fitting a 1.6 crank and rods?

Little lost to be honest!

I'm still struggling to understand how pistons from the lower compression afh give a higher cr when fitted to the avy. I might fit an afh and avy pistons to a couple of the cylinders when rebuilding it and work out the cr'a on them, visually the pistons look the same other than the crown

I'm just going on Mr MKs words as usual haha.

Was just wondering as there's an overbored AFH for sale, thought about just stroking that so be slightl over 1600cc but didn't know what the comp ratio would be!