If you're using an AFH head and pistons then the combustion capacity is still exactly the same. But you have more cylinder capacity. Therefore the ratio has more offset - your compression ratio is higher.

The AFH is 10.5

With the extra capacity of the longer stroke it's pushed up to about 12.3

VW then gave the pistons a little more dish to bring it down to 11.5

In the case of an overbore, the compression ratio stays about the same, because you're adding an even percentage extra capacity into both the compression chamber and cylinder.

It's not that simple though because most of the compression chamber in in the head of the 16v's so an overbored 1.6 AFH would be a good 12.5.

With the weakened cylinder walls and 40% more power that's probably not a good idea, especially with low restriction intake and road fuel, but that's another matter..

If you're using an AFH head and pistons then the combustion capacity is still exactly the same. But you have more cylinder capacity. Therefore the ratio has more offset - your compression ratio is higher.

The AFH is 10.5

With the extra capacity of the longer stroke it's pushed up to about 12.3

VW then gave the pistons a little more dish to bring it down to 11.5

ah right that makes a lot more sense

yeah let me know too ..

Is he including re threading them in the cost or ?

It's costing me £130 all in, £100 for the head bolt holes and £30 for a head skim and the bores honed

Back to crank pulleys...

I'm probably going to end up building a 1.6 16v this year/next winter.

It will be on carbs, with megajolt.

I have just noticed the bottom pulley for the Cambelt is different to AFH/AEE etc, as the Aux Pulley just bolts on the with centre bolt?

This isn't good news...

As I was hoping to swap my trigger wheel setup off the AEE onto an AVY bottom.

Which is using the early polo V belt pulley, and the trigger wheel bolted up using the 4 retaining bolts for the pulley.

Before anyone mentions, I CANNOT use the VW OEM 60-2 setup behind the flywheel.

I assume fitting an AEE pulley is too narrow for this Cambelt? Could the AVY one be drilled and tapped?

Cheers

Cant you use the AEE crank in afh block with AVY pistons and rods ?

Sure i've seen somewhere the AEE crank can be used :S ..

What you could do is use flush-fit tapered bolt heads inserted from the other side into tapered holes in the aux pulley, then bolt it onto the crank pulley with the trigger wheel attached. I recon the metal's more than thick enough for the job.

Or yeah, tap the threads into the crank pulley.

All 16v shortblocks use the wider single bolt version pulley. The AFH due to the width of the belt, and the twin belt versions because the normal-width belt they use is a few mm's further away from the engine (to make room for the slave belt).

An AFH both cams are driven and there's only one belt yes? Not a slave belt like the AVY head setup.

Can I not just fit an AFH cambelt pulley to the AVY crank? Or is the offset of stuff different? Like waterpump/tensioner/relay roller

?

Do you still use the Stainless Manifold from the AFH setup?

The AFH cast manifold can't ne used with the AVY/ARC oil cooler, that's all.

The roller drilling situation:

I've been speaking to Nick recently about how it all goes.

Obviously its a 8M on AFH and 10M on ARC/AVY and one side needs to be drilled to a certain M?

Apparently that snapped so can someone update me on that.

Thanks.

Edited 23 January, 201313 yr by POvwLO

The roller drilling situation:

I've been speaking to Nick recently about how it all goes.

Obviously its a 8M on AFH and 10M on ARC/AVY and one side needs to be drilled to a certain M?

Apparently that snapped so can someone update me on that.

Thanks.

What?

you 'drill' out the Roller to appropriate diameter for the M10 bolt.

I'll have to see, Just slightly confused, I read the guide on the Roller part just not understanding, Do you drill out the M10 bolt to what size?

I'll have to see, Just slightly confused, I read the guide on the Roller part just not understanding, Do you drill out the M10 bolt to what size?

There is 2 ways of doing it..

1 - Use a piece of round bar which at one end is M10 and fits inside of the AVY/ARC Block and the other end is milled/lathed down to M8 so it fits through the pulley.

Grunge did this on the first page of this thread, but the bar snapped. It could have been a freak thing but this led to..

2 - drilling the hole in the relay roller out to M10 so you can use the Bolt from the ARC/AVY engine.

I'll have to see, Just slightly confused, I read the guide on the Roller part just not understanding, Do you drill out the M10 bolt to what size?

There is 2 ways of doing it..

1 - Use a piece of round bar which at one end is M10 and fits inside of the AVY/ARC Block and the other end is milled/lathed down to M8 so it fits through the pulley.

Grunge did this on the first page of this thread, but the bar snapped. It could have been a freak thing but this led to..

2 - drilling the hole in the relay roller out to M10 so you can use the Bolt from the ARC/AVY engine.

Thankyou. Answered it so simply haha.

^^ Not another one..

I used an M8 bolt in all three of my 1.6 AFH 6n2 blocks, so that means there are three ways, not two.

Insert Michael?

Yes, Commando - drill and tap block out to M12, tap an M8 thread down an M12 grub, insert grub, you now have an M8 thread in the block..

Fuck me I should get paid for this shit.

Make yourself or is it just one from a kit as such?

Use them quite often really, drill the block by hand?

Trouble with using a Helicoil is the pitch would be a bit odd being an M8x1.5. So i made my own, with 1.5 on the outside and 1.25 on the inside.

Drill the block, then tap it, ideally a pillar drill but it ain't necessary really unless you're a bit special. The iron cuts quite nicely.

M14 would be better of course, but with one ally block i had an M10 10.9 stud and tapped an M8 into it! And even that was fine for a couple of thousand miles of thrashing!

M8x1.25 into M10x1.5.. AV-IT!

fuck helicoils.

drill block out to m12,

tap with only the tapered tap

screw in normal m12 bolt untill its feckin tight

cut off and file flush

drill and tap M8 in the middle of that.

be much stronger. theres your 4th way

Sounds morenhasslenthan is worth

That's basically making your own insert like mikey uses lol

What sort of compression should this compression be?

My conversion has a extremely high compression.

This is my relay roller. Done by wire erosion.

amazing how precise and intricate the cut is! :)

Some might know that i'm rebuilding the bottom end of my 1.6 16v engine for the AFH/ARC hybrid and I need some main & rod bearings shells and a set of thrust washers.

Are these VW only or has someone got a contact/link to someone who sells them?

Tar..