I've been looking around, and can't seem to bring much up..

Does anyone know where I can get a lightened flywheel for the 6n 1.4 16v?

It seems a good easy upgrade if I can find one..

If not, what do people reccomend to get more out of these cars?

Cheers, James

doesnt make more power..just revs faster

Can also fuck cranks... Don't go too mental.

Yeah, doesn't give more power.. just gets what power you have where it needs to be quicker?

Sorry, it came across wrong, two part question, I know what the flywheel will do, but was asking aswell as that, wheres best to start getting more power out of the engine?

cams

bikecarbs

stainless system

Thats the route id be taking.

To be honest I wouldn't recommend bike carbs. The standard intake/induction setup on the AFH is fine, and allows hassle free MOTs, and isn't restrictive even at 150 bhp...

CDA in that case then

have you not played forza 2?

it only increases acceleration

have you not played forza 2?

it only increases acceleration

LOVE THIS POST!!!

doesnt make more power..just revs faster

It wont make it rev faster, as said before, it reduces the inertia required to spin the fly wheel. This then increases the rate of acceleration as the gear box and thus wheels are able to speed up faster. Essentially its the same principal as turbo lag, in a the way in that the turbo needs to speed up before it is fully operational. If that makes sense.

And a stainless system wont make a difference in itself. What you want is an easier breathing system (usually a 4-2-1 manifold and increased diameter exhaust system). Although most people go for stainless, mild is popular too. In fact, i prefer the sound of a mild system to a stainless, but like the look of stainless manifolds. Thus i went for a stainless manifold and ashley 2" exhaust. Best of both words imo. Though it has been said that the AFH exhaust mani allows for good breathing as standard

doesnt make more power..just revs faster

It wont make it rev faster, as said before, it reduces the inertia required to spin the fly wheel. This then increases the rate of acceleration as the gear box and thus wheels are able to speed up faster. Essentially its the same principal as turbo lag, in a the way in that the turbo needs to speed up before it is fully operational. If that makes sense.

And a stainless system wont make a difference in itself. What you want is an easier breathing system (usually a 4-2-1 manifold and increased diameter exhaust system). Although most people go for stainless, mild is popular too. In fact, i prefer the sound of a mild system to a stainless, but like the look of stainless manifolds. Thus i went for a stainless manifold and ashley 2" exhaust. Best of both words imo. Though it has been said that the AFH exhaust mani allows for good breathing as standard

Plan is then, lightened flywheel, high lift cams with porting, stainless de-cat with 421, stage 2 with a turbo.

So, does anyone know where to get a lightened flywheel for one?

Cheers, James

you can use your orginal flywheel off your valver engine to have it correctly lightend and balanced you will have to send off your crankshaft,conrods,new bearings, crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft pulley bolt & your clutch pressure plate

Like so ( thats a mk3 flywheel on the crankshaft tho ) but you get zee picture

Also just to show you the differnce between thickness of a mk3 & mk4 polo flywheel ( mk4 on the left ) (mk3 on the crank )

steve

Edited 29 September, 201015 yr by Stevo-trendy

^^ The picture isn't fair because the later fly on the left is hollow.

But the point is plenty valid enough - the early one is about 5kgs compared to near 6.5kgs for the newer one. This has a notable difference in how much of the engine's power goes straight into the wheels under acceleration,though this increases traction issues in low gears. There's also a reduction in engine braking but the engine revs more freely.

Every 6n from the 1.0 to the 16v got the same 6n flywheel,as did the 1.4 Golf/Vento,Lupos and some Seats.

And every '86-'94 got the same earlier one.

But if you want to use an early one with a post-'95 cylinder block you need a specific starter motor fitted to late MK2's and i believe some MK2F's. It has a narrower body necessary to go against the later block but can reach the early fly's ring gear adequately.

It wont make it rev faster, as said before, it reduces the inertia required to spin the fly wheel.

exactly right, less rotating inertia means they engine takes less time to rev to it's normal running speed, it doesn't magically mean the engine can rev higher..

there are downsides to have a light flywheel though, it can make the idling really rough, and also there is next to no engine braking on overrun. it's swings and roundabouts really, but i wouldn't recommend lightening a flywheel on a road car.

It wont make it rev faster, as said before, it reduces the inertia required to spin the fly wheel.

exactly right, less rotating inertia means they engine takes less time to rev to it's normal running speed, it doesn't magically mean the engine can rev higher..

there are downsides to have a light flywheel though, it can make the idling really rough, and also there is next to no engine braking on overrun. it's swings and roundabouts really, but i wouldn't recommend lightening a flywheel on a road car.

Really? How come? I assume the acceleration is increased, which in my eyes is good, but i can see the points in the other comments made here. Specifically though, why wouldn't you go for a light fly?

Really? How come? I assume the acceleration is increased, which in my eyes is good, but i can see the points in the other comments made here. Specifically though, why wouldn't you go for a light fly?

yes the acceleration is increased, but to make the flywheel lighter youi need to remove some material from somewhere and this often makes it weaker or prone to shattering under heavy load... and don't iunderestimate just how much you will miss the engine braking effect... it's all ok on a track car where you can crank the idle speed up, but road going cars suffer real bad from light fllywheels becuase there is not enough mass to smoothly carry the engine over to the next cylinder

I think it can be quite funny when people go to all the effort of getting their road engine wonderfully balanced, then fuck it all up with either too light a flywheel or a poor job of lightening it - what should have been a perfectly smooth engine turns into something that feels it's going to explode if you happen to be a bit too fast taking up the clutch or don't use quite enough revs to pull away...

Engine braking with a standard flywheel and 11:1 compression is nice, think I'll keep it

I took 1kg off mine.. have no problem. Its been hammered round the track and done a 1000mile trip up and around Scotland.

I think the first person meant by 'Rev faster' the revs increase quicker. That's the way I read it. :)

Why is the engine braking reduced?

Shirley it would be increased.

If it spins up faster, I would have thought it spins down faster too.

Why is the engine braking reduced?

Shirley it would be increased.

If it spins up faster, I would have thought it spins down faster too.

surely it would spin down slower because there is less rotating mass to slow it down?

Why is the engine braking reduced?

Shirley it would be increased.

If it spins up faster, I would have thought it spins down faster too.

Well, it's rotating mass that keeps things going, providing there is not too much friction. In theory a lighter flywheel would increase engine braking I suppose. Would like to hear some professional opinions on this, but I agree with varnish.

And don't call me Shirley!

i have a lighter fly wheel on my gt. i wood say engine braking is increased...

A heavier flywheel means its slow to rev up and a Lighter flywheel means quicker to rev up. With a lighter flywheel the braking effect of the engine on the car will be increased.

Just as the engine has to try harder to get a heavy flywheel spinning it has the same problem in slowing it down, because of its rotating mass.

With a lighter flywheel its easier for the engine to get it spinning and easier for the engine to slow it down as it has less rotating mass.

So a lighter flywheel will rev up quicker and engine braking effect would be increased.

but don't you want the fly wheel to slow down slower to increase the engine breaking? is the loss of engine breaking not due to the fact it would be easier for the wheels to spin the engine and fly wheel if it was lightened?

the heavier the engine components are the harder it is to turn, so if every thing is heavier is will slow the car down quicker because it takes more force to turn it all?

where as if it was all a lot lighter and a lot easier to turn the force from the wheels would find it easier to turn it and it wouldn't slow the wheels down as quick?

that made a lot of sense in my head, probably not so much now i've had to try and put it into words