Hi i'm new here, I just bought a 96 1.4cl and have a few basic questions I hope you can help with (i didnt get an owners guide with it)

It only came with one key and a large rectangular fob thing for the immobiliser, as share the car with the wife I am after getting a new key for it but i am a bit puzzled about the immobiliser thing, before i can start the car i have to insert the fob into a socket located under the glove box and wait for it to flash before putting the key in the ignition, i cant see this being the normal set up and have found info on here about the key having a chip in it so any idea why its like this? and do you recon its possible to change this arrangement?

What do i need to do to get another key and are they expensive?

one other thing that may or not be related is that i have a rectangular hole in the console between the window switches, is this something to do with it? or can i get a blanking plate to cover it

thanks in advance

Edited 20 November, 201015 yr by 6nrb

It sounds to me like the immobiliser is an aftermarket part which is why it's in a weird place.

In between the window switches - i doubt it's anything to do with the immobiliser. Someone with elec windows may be able to get a pic as to what is meant to be in the space but you may well be able to get a blanking plate if it isn't anything important/if it isn't on your car (mine has manual windows so I can't be much help i'm afraid)

I'm not to sure about the car cause of the year, but IIRC there should be factory fitted imobilizer, which is turned off by a transponder (chip) inside the key, i know on the newer models say 2001 onwards, if you get a new key the key has to be coded to the car.

As far as i know they use a rolling SKC which means it has to be coded by a dealer, (iv had auto electricians try to code a new key to a 01 lupo but couldnt extract the SKC), how ever with the year of your car the system might not be as complex, I'm sure someone would shed some light on this.

And the alarm system you have fitted definetly sounds like an after market one, might be best tro contact the supplier about a replacemnet fob.

Hope this helps.

Edit: I remember reading something a while back about the SKC being supplied with the book pack in older cars, i believe this makes it far easier to get a replacement key, and SKC means secret key code btw.

Edited 21 November, 201015 yr by lupoluke

It sounds to me like the immobiliser is an aftermarket part which is why it's in a weird place.

In between the window switches - i doubt it's anything to do with the immobiliser. Someone with elec windows may be able to get a pic as to what is meant to be in the space but you may well be able to get a blanking plate if it isn't anything important/if it isn't on your car (mine has manual windows so I can't be much help i'm afraid)

I have a blank between the switches, I's suggest a visit to a scrappers.

I'm not to sure about the car cause of the year, but IIRC there should be factory fitted imobilizer, which is turned off by a transponder (chip) inside the key, i know on the newer models say 2001 onwards, if you get a new key the key has to be coded to the car.

As far as i know they use a rolling SKC which means it has to be coded by a dealer, (iv had auto electricians try to code a new key to a 01 lupo but couldnt extract the SKC), how ever with the year of your car the system might not be as complex, I'm sure someone would shed some light on this.

And the alarm system you have fitted definetly sounds like an after market one, might be best tro contact the supplier about a replacemnet fob.

Hope this helps.

Edit: I remember reading something a while back about the SKC being supplied with the book pack in older cars, i believe this makes it far easier to get a replacement key, and SKC means secret key code btw.

Their car is a year older than mine and mine is a bog standard key, no immobiliser at all which is why I am assuming its an aftermarket addon.

It sounds to me like the immobiliser is an aftermarket part which is why it's in a weird place.

In between the window switches - i doubt it's anything to do with the immobiliser. Someone with elec windows may be able to get a pic as to what is meant to be in the space but you may well be able to get a blanking plate if it isn't anything important/if it isn't on your car (mine has manual windows so I can't be much help i'm afraid)

I have a blank between the switches, I's suggest a visit to a scrappers.

Thought so. Not having the luxury of electric windows - i'm not sure what should of been there :) I get the povety spec

Interesting.

Suspect car has had an aftermarket alarm and immobiliser fitted to it. The indicator light for the alarm was likely fitted to the centre console. Alarm has been partially removed for ?reason hence LED/blanking plate missing. Fobs probably stopped working or lost.

Aftermarket immobiliser still exists. In order to bypass the immobiliser, emergency key card must be put in slot - located in this case by the driver's side glove box - only then can car be started. Normally, would have been deactivated by fob with rolling codes to the alarm unit and immobiliser.

Options

1. Auto electrician to remove existing immobiliser +/- return to standard OR refit new alarm with remote central locking

2. Try and find out what's been fitted yourself.

Geez... this is better than CSI:Miami !

PoloD.

Edited 21 November, 201015 yr by PoloD

Thanks folks, confirmed what i thought about the immobiliser not being standard.

Any idea where i would find the aftermarket one fitted to the car? and what does it look like?

i would rather just remove it and take my chances if thats an option.

my main priority is to get another key so we can share the car, I wouldn't mind changing the locks, is this possible or will i have issues with the keys and immobiliser?

thanks for explaining the SKC thing, i had no idea

Ricky

more questions about keys...

If my key operates the central locking and the ignition, does that mean it has the transponder chip/SKC?,

is it safe to assume if any copies will work also, assuming the SKC thing has been copied as well? (this would mean we only have to share the immobiliser fob)

anybody know any cheap places around bradford/halifax area that does the keys?

I'm a bit hesitant about pulling out the second immobiliser/ alarm thing out and then not being able to start the car, if i bought the cheap VAGCOM cable on ebay will it tell me whats going on?

thanks again

Nope, Vag-com's only going to tell you any faults that have occurred with the car (if any of the lights on the dash are on).

Tbh, I'd rip out the old alarm and go back to stock. The problem is, VW charge you about 70 for a key/transponder. :( The fob might just disarm the alarm though?

I mean; how do you know it's connected as an immo? You can peel apart your key, and there will be a little chip. You could check and see by taking this chip out (very carefully), and trying to start the car without the chip. If it starts for a second then cuts out, you've still got the original immo.

And then what happens if you don't disarm the thing in the glovebox?

Hi Adam thanks for the info

If i dont insert the fob the engine wont start, i get power for the windows etc but it cuts to power when i try to start the engine

i will have a play with the key to see if it has the chip, i am kind of hoping it is standard and i have effectively got two immobilisers, then i can just scrap the other one

as for the vagcom thing, my airbag light is on, I'm interested to find out why, is there a way to visually check an airbag? ie see if there is one there or if its been activated?

i have never messed about with one and dont know what I'm looking for, the paint on the top surface of the bumper has some wrinkles on it, like it might have had a slight tap at some point

I have also seen mention on here that messing about with steering wheel can cause the light to come on, and it needs a full version of vagcom not the shareware version to fix it, does this sound about right?

thanks mate

Spent all day taking the car apart and learnt a few things

Mainly that the bit that connects the key to the central locking mech is a piece of sh!t

I came to unlock car at 0730 this morning, it was a bit frosty and i couldn't get the key to turn in the door locks, ended up getting in thru the boot. When I got back from dropping the wife & kids off I decided to have nosey at the fob socket as i had my tools in the boot.

Anyway, I now know its a dealer fitted Conloc alarm, a few folks have mentioned them on here, there's even a picture of the strange fob socket in installed in a glove box.

While i was tracing the wires I found 2 LEDs hidden behind the dash and some wires running up the gear stick to a micro switch, they had been cut just below the switch which was a bit odd as there is connector block behind the cig lighter that was still plugged in. So i figured maybe that's the cause of all my problems, reconnected it and pressed the button. nothing happened so I decided to get out lock the car and get back in and try it again, except now the key just turns and doesn't lock the car WTF !!! after a significant amount of trial and error I went for a cuppa and searched the forum.

I now know the little switch is a Valet switch for the alarm, thanks :-)

armed with my new found knowledge I went back to try to disable the Valet mode, but could not get the drivers door to lock, I think you can guess where this is going...

Hours passed.

I tried the passenger door and all the doors locked !!

After another brew and consultation, i found a very good article on the lock spade problem and how to fix it, piece of piss, but nothing to do with the valet switch !!

By this point i had to get the plastic back on to go get the folks and still needed the fob to start it.

While i was fumbling around I found a small black plastic box with ultrasonic sensors plugged into it and 3 other wires that went into a loom that eventually disappears behind the fuse box. Is that the 'brain' of the alarm? or is that likely to be behind the fuse box?

how do you move the fuse box out of the way? i recon it must splice into the ignition circuit back there

This Forum rocks !!

It seems my main problem at the minute is knowing what the problem is, or rather knowing what to search for

Many thanks

hi,

the centre console switches are as follow- (left to right)

sunroof switch -- left window switch -- heated seat switches -- right window switch.

if any of these arent fitted the there will be a blank, the window switches and sunroof blanks are the same.

the heated seat switch blank is a little bigger, and is a good place to fit the immobiliser contact.

- also, why not just glue or tape the imbolisier fob to the contact and just get a new key cut at most auto locksmiths.

i did this on mine and hasnt given me an problems.

hth

The solution here is even more simple: put the immobiliser override card in the slot and leave it there. Get another key cut (does not require transponder chip) and use.

Of course, the car will have no security apart from the key.

Any yes, from the description above, you have found the alarm/immobiliser - small black box with ultrasonic sensors going in to it. However, taking it out may not be as easy as it seems. Recommend professional to do it!

HTH

PoloD.

I'm quite happy to leave the immo fob in the car, but how come it wont need the standard transponder thing?

i assumed my key had the chip which does its thing and i have to use the fob as a secondary immo

thanks for the info on the switches, since I'm not missing anything that should be there i will find a use for the gap, probably a tray for my shades

I'm sure that you are correct in saying that you will still need the original key c/w transponder in order to operate the ignition.

I don't know of any cheap answer to the problem of obtaining a spare key with transponder, but you never know, someone else may.

Regards.

- some of the base models did not come with factory immobiliser, and i suspect that your one did not come from the factory with an immobiliser and thats probably why the previous owner fitted one. so in an answer to your question, you would only need a transponder in you new key if there is one in your current key

best way of checking is to open up your key have a look, is pretty easy you just need something flat so a screwdriver or even a penny and use it to open along the side of key (there should be a visible split down the side).

once opened, you can see inside the key, if there is a small black box with some writing on it then i guess its safe to say you have a factory immobi.

-HTH

Just had the key a part and found the tiny black box, does that thing really immobilise my car?

it sounds like getting a key cut is the cheap/easy part but getting the box copied costs loads.

I'm thinking two 'dumb' keys and leave the magic box in the car might be the way to go

that leaves the second immo to sort out,

if i relocate it to behind the dash and leave the fob in it, cut one of the wires and add a discreet switch would the alarm system function as before or would it know it had a wire cut?

Get one of these, put your key with the chip inside it and get a normal un-chipped key cut the same as the ignition

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Get one of these, put your key with the chip inside it and get a normal un-chipped key cut the same as the ignition

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

is that for real?

it looks like a small black box to put a key in with some random wires attached

from what i have gathered the the transponder chip needs to be near the car in order to start it, i was thinking of a jiffy bag

am i missing something? I'm learning as i go here so please bare with me

hi,

okay so you must have the factory immobiliser fitted, next step is to remove black box (transponder) from the key then try to start the car.

this is to test if the factory one has been bypassed, and if the car cuts out then

personally, i would cut a new key(without the chip), and do as you said above (which would work), and also remove the steering cowling and remove the ignition switch surround (which is the sensor for the immobiliser), and glue the chip from your current key to that and tape the whole thing to the steering column.

you could even get another ignition switch surround from a breakers which will not be connected to anything but would fill the gap of the one you've just removed.

job done

Get one of these, put your key with the chip inside it and get a normal un-chipped key cut the same as the ignition

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT

is that for real?

it looks like a small black box to put a key in with some random wires attached

from what i have gathered the the transponder chip needs to be near the car in order to start it, i was thinking of a jiffy bag

am i missing something? I'm learning as i go here so please bare with me

It has a wire loop that goes around the ignition switch so that the original immobiliser sensor coil will pick up the code from the key that is in the box, the other wires are power, earths etc.

Just found this topic and have the same problem...a dealer fitted alarm/immobiliser, but I've lost both remotes so have to press a small rectangular thing in to a slot by the passenger airbag before the car will start. Really want to get rid of this if anyone has any ideas?

Trace the wiring back to wherever it goes and try unplugging it? If it starts up fine then put all the unplugged wiring in the nearest bin.