Hi

My instrument cluster in my 04 Polo has lost it's voice, and the cheapest I've been quoted is £80 to repair it. I'm a student, so that's a no go. I've been looking about for a while, and was told it was probably just the speaker. However, the only way to get a new speaker is to get another unit. So I bought a brand new cluster on ebay for £27. But looking at it, it seems silly wasting it. It looks the same as my current one, so manual, I don't think it has the multifunction display either. I'll get my current cluster's model number with vagcom in a few days and compare, but I'm assuming they're the same for now. And that being said, is there any way I can replace the old with the new? I have vcds-lite and vagtacho. I understand vagtacho can set the mileage to match the current one. I have coded keys before, and assume I'l have to get new transponders to match the immobiliser in the new cluster? And then, how would I code keys without first having a matching key to begin the process?

I'm a bit lost here, so any help would be much appreciated!

Thanks

Daniel

hi,

when you say the speaker is not working, do you mean the "ding " noise when an error comes up?, or am i missing something?

My instrument cluster in my 04 Polo has lost it's voice, and the cheapest I've been quoted is £80 to repair it. I'm a student, so that's a no go. I've been looking about for a while, and was told it was probably just the speaker. However, the only way to get a new speaker is to get another unit. So I bought a brand new cluster on ebay for £27. But looking at it, it seems silly wasting it. It looks the same as my current one, so manual, I don't think it has the multifunction display either. I'll get my current cluster's model number with vagcom in a few days and compare, but I'm assuming they're the same for now. And that being said, is there any way I can replace the old with the new? I have vcds-lite and vagtacho. I understand vagtacho can set the mileage to match the current one. I have coded keys before, and assume I'l have to get new transponders to match the immobiliser in the new cluster? And then, how would I code keys without first having a matching key to begin the process?

You don't need a matching key to begin the process. You just need a key that hasn't been matched to any other vehicle (the key is written with the VIN at matching, not the instrument cluster ID).

Check the cluster software version. You can see it in VCDS when you select the instrument cluster module where the component field says something like "KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V18". On your new cluster, it'll be printed on a white label and stuck in a place you'd have to break if you wanted to open it. If both clusters have the same software version (e.g. both are VDO V18) and are both pre-CANBUS clusters then you can just copy the EEPROM data from the old to the new using Vag-Tacho.

If they aren't the same software version you don't want to go blindly overwriting the EEPROM. In this case, you can just put the new cluster in, go through the matching process as you've done before and then use Vag-Tacho to reset the mileage on the new cluster.

If the new cluster is CANBUS (i.e. you can't connect to it with Vag-Tacho) then it is still possible but a lot more tricky. You'll have to solder some wires onto the surface-mount serial EEPROM and wire it into your EEPROM burner of choice, using that to read/write from the cluster.

Hope that helps,

I've just checked, and the one in my car is V18 according to VCDS-Lite, whereas the white label on the replacement says V11. Below is the VCDS-Lite report:

Address 17: Instruments Labels: Redir Fail!

Controller: 6Q0 920 900 Hu

Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V18

Coding: 01431

Shop #: WSC 00000

WVWZZZ9NZ4Y162837 VWZ7Z0C8281348

On the rear of the new cluster, it says:

Controller: 6Q0 920 900 HX/002

On the top on the white label (which I can only read some of as some of it is folded and stuck between the front half of the unit and the circuit board) it says:

6Q0920 920G V11

SW01.00

C007.07

So what shall I do next? Does V11 mean it's an older version than the current one? Will there be features missing or other problems if I use it then?

Thanks

Daniel

So what shall I do next? Does V11 mean it's an older version than the current one? Will there be features missing or other problems if I use it then?

No, you shouldn't have any missing features or problems using an older version of the software. You should just be able to plug it in and match the keys, then reset the mileage with Vag-Tacho. You'll need to get the pin of the new cluster first though, obviously.

Ok. So it's transponder APTK2 on hickleys, right? And getting the pin can be done with a key not matched yet, long as it fits in the car, as in the guide for central locking with the 4 digits and the 0 on the front, right? If you give me the go on the transponders, I'll order them today unless you know somewhere cheaper?

Thanks

Ok. So it's transponder APTK2 on hickleys, right? And getting the pin can be done with a key not matched yet, long as it fits in the car, as in the guide for central locking with the 4 digits and the 0 on the front, right? If you give me the go on the transponders, I'll order them today unless you know somewhere cheaper?

I thought you had existing keys for the car? If so then you don't need new transponders.

Oh! I thought they were write once! ok that's fine, so I have all i need already. make the swap, get the pin with tacho, put a 0 in front, program the new keys in VCDS-lite with the 5 digit code, and tacho to change mileage. That right? Seems too easy...

Ok. So it's transponder APTK2 on hickleys, right? And getting the pin can be done with a key not matched yet, long as it fits in the car, as in the guide for central locking with the 4 digits and the 0 on the front, right? If you give me the go on the transponders, I'll order them today unless you know somewhere cheaper?

There seems to be a bit of confusion about how this all works.

The immobiliser controller (built into the dash clocks) stores a VIN. It is also able to interrogate the engine control unit for *it's* VIN. When you match a new immobiliser (replacing the clocks) the immobiliser re-learns the engine control unit's VIN. You have to do this first when you're swapping the clocks out, and it requires both the old and new IMMO3 pins. There is a procedure for doing this but I haven't done it for a while -- I tend to just open the clocks and manipulate the EEPROM with a hex editor.

The transponder stores TWO pieces of information -- the VIN, and a TID (transponder ID). These two pieces of information are written together, but can be written ONLY ONCE.

When you put the key in, the immobiliser reads the VIN and the TID from the transponder. If the VIN matches the vehicle's VIN AND the TID is stored in the immobiliser's list, then the immobiliser is deactivated.

When you match a transponder, the immobiliser reads the VIN and TID.

If there is no VIN or KEY ID to read, then the current VIN and a (random) TID is written to the transponder. The new TID is then stored in the immobiliser, and the transponder is matched.

If there is a VIN and a KEY ID, AND the VIN on the transponder matches the vehicle's VIN then the transponder's TID is stored in the immobiliser, and the transponder is then matched.

If there is a VIN and a KEY ID, and the VIN on the transponder DOES NOT match the vehicle's VIN then it is not possible to match the transponder.

In summary, this is a good deal more complicated than just matching a new key, because you have to first match the new immobiliser.

All of this becomes pretty trivial once you know where the relevant bytes live in the EEPROM

If you want, I'm happy to reprogram your new cluster so it'll just plug-and-play into your car -- no matching the immobiliser, and no key-matching required -- for £20 plus the cost of return postage to you from Swansea.

I'd like to do this myself if possible, I'm now at reading uni, and have so far programmed in binary, hex and c, and i'm getting better. Now you've pointed out how hard this can be, I think I'd really benefit from doing it, if you'll be willing to instruct me through it? What would I need to access the eeprom? Is it cheap? I can check if they already have one here.

thanks

Daniel

So can you help me? It would be a lot easier sending it to you, but adding the cost of the replacement, the cost of postage both ways, and paying you, I'd have spent the £80 I could have got mine repaired for, so I'd be better off selling the new unit on eBay and paying for the repair as it comes with a 3 year warranty. I'd be surprised if it can't be done at reading uni, they have a lot of relevant gear.

Thanks

hi,

this brigs me back to my first question, what is actually wrong with your cluster? you say the speaker, is this the speaker that makes the chime when there is an error, ie low fuel?

sorry if this is a silly question, but could you not just swap the faulty part from the new into the current one?

i would imagine it is just the buzzer, and most probably 2 or 3 soldering points. cant be that difficult.

The problem isn't the soldering, it's removing and replacing the buzzer, as it's clipped in and not really meant to be removed. I think I've posted some photos on a thread on the subject on here somewhere, so you can see where the problem is. I'd much rather program a new cluster now I have one, if greid will help me :)

This seems a little extreme, if you're only trying to get your lights on buzzer back...

What about...

http://www.gbnetwork.co.uk/circuits/carlig...t_reminder.html

PoloD.

Problem with that is it won't sound for petrol or indicators, and that buzzer sound is really annoying, but thanks anyway

Ours suffered this years ago (whilst still under warranty). I'm under the impression there's a module which controls the noises, and it's that that was at fault on ours. (not the speaker effort itself)

What I've never understood is why there's a relay to control the flashers, and an electronic box that makes a relay noise. I also preferred it when the petrol buzzer didn't go off. I'm not sure why there's an assumption made at the design stage that the owner will be able to drive a car, yet not understand a fuel gauge. The more you think about it, the more insulting the stupid thing becomes. On the 'rocco, with it's 1/2-candle-power-from-round-the-corner dash lights, it's easy to forget the lights, on the polo though, the dash lights up so bright I find it hard to forget them.

If you want an electronics project, why not just move the flasher relay somewhere you can hear it?

I want it all working as it did, so when i come to sell it I'll have a much easier time. I'd like to sell this car in 2 or 3 years, and I want as much money back for it as possible!

Don't blame you... You'll have to excuse me being a bit cynical about them.

Yeah I think it's a joke. A car of that age shouldn't fail like that. They should have done a recall or free repairs, obviously a design fault!

A helpful (off topic) hint: as soon as you notice tyre wear at the front, think "suspension bushes" (inner rearmost) not "tracking" and don't consider changing them youself! It's an EVIL job....

Erm ok, willdo thanks. First and last German car, my peugeot was perfect

greid, you still there? If you're not gonna tell me how to do it, will you do it any cheaper?

greid, you still there? If you're not gonna tell me how to do it, will you do it any cheaper?

I've got a cheap cluster coming my way in the next day or 2 - once I've plundered it for the LED's, you're welcome to the speaker unit &/or anything else - it'll save you destroying that new unit you've bought.

ok that will be great thanks :)

No probs - I'll keep you posted :-D