I have recently fitted hids but to ensure that i wont be dazzling other drivers i am wondering can i fit the newer 7 pin lights and the switch, what will i need to do this as i know theres some at a local scrappy

Thanks

as long as your current lights are aligned properly, then there is no reason to change them.

but if you wanted to, you would need

- the light units

- pin connectors and as much of the loom connected to it as possible (few inches)

- the switch (with headlight adjuster)

- the 3 pin connector from the basck of it, again a good few inches would be best.

you would then need to run 2 of these wires to theengine bay. (unless there is already wiring prepared in the engine bay. I'm not sure but somebody will correct me). and i think the 3rd wire goes to igniton +12v

cut off the 4pin connector and connect to the new 7 pin

brown -- brown

yellow -- yellow

white -- white

grey/ green or red -- grey/green or red (depends on which side)

then iirc there is a red a blue and a black wire

red and blue connect to the 2 wires coming from the dash switch, and the black goes to ground. I THINK.

PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong.

i have also got these bits and was planning on doing this before the country froze.

hope this helps

Edited 7 December, 201015 yr by dixy

hmmm it sounds more difficult than i thought next time i go the scrappy ill ask a price from him and when I've got the parts I'm sure ill be able to do it lool

Thanks thats a good detailed guide

This is the connector behind the fusebox (pre 1998) it runs the supply from the dipped beam, earth and the signal wire. The mating connector is available from VW part# 1J0972722 £0.98+vat

4pin conn headlight switch 3pin conn

pin 1 red/blue pin2/G signal

pin 2 brown/blue pin3/31 ground

pin 3 yellow/blue pin 1/56b 12v from dipped beam

pin 4 brown pin3/31 ground

19 pin headlight conn 7 pin conn on headlight

pins 17/18 red/blue pin 6 signal

pins 2/3 brown/blue pin 5 ground

yellow(r/h) yellow/black (l/h) pin 7 12v from dipped beam

as long as your current lights are aligned properly, then there is no reason to change them.

sorry to hijack i just fitted some hids to mi 6n and the lights are not alined properly is it easy to aline them again and how do i do it ? :)

thanks

as long as your current lights are aligned properly, then there is no reason to change them.

sorry to hijack i just fitted some hids to mi 6n and the lights are not alined properly is it easy to aline them again and how do i do it ? :)

thanks

This is a rough guide to the required alignment, but idealy you should get it set up on a garage beam setter

Edited 8 December, 201015 yr by nige8021

its pretty simple, basicly what the second picture says is if you park it 1om from a wall, the hot points (point at which the light flicks up to the left) should be the same distance apart on the wall as the distance apart on the car. this is the calculation and will take a bit of head sratching to get right.

but to get it roughly right - park it 10m away from a wall, remove both l+r indicators and you should see a wheel on the headlight body, these adjust the relavent headlight beam up and down. if the wall has brick lines, you can use this as a reference and try and gett them as close to level as posible.

now for left to right, this is a little bit difficult, the adjuster wheels for this are on the other side of the grille and will need to be turned through the little holes on the top of the headlight body.basicly wht i used to do was adjust the passsengers side to the left until the hotpoint was in line with the wing when you look down the side of thecar. then i would adjust the drivers side bean until the hotpoint just touches the end of the passengers side beam (where it just starts to get dark).

i hope this makes senses.:-)

if not then any m.o.t station will have the equipment to precisely align them, but they will charge for this i wouldnt pay more then £10 for this, how ever if you have an mot coming up, then they will be it then and it will be included in the price of the test.

once aligned properly, the difference is incredable.

Edited 8 December, 201015 yr by dixy

- also nige8021,

the 19 pin headlight conn , is this the connector in the engine bay, near to the radiator?

and if so, does this mean that the wiring preperations are already in the car loom if you already have that red connector at the back of the fuse box?

thank you

- also nige8021,

the 19 pin headlight conn , is this the connector in the engine bay, near to the radiator?

and if so, does this mean that the wiring preperations are already in the car loom if you already have that red connector at the back of the fuse box?

thank you

Yes the 19 pin is by the radiator and from my understanding the required wiring is included in the basic loom back to the fusebox and that red connector will be behind the fusebox (only on pre 1998 cars) then it's a case of running the four wires from that plug up to the new headlight switch three pin plug, then you will have to modify the wiring loom from the 19 pin to the headlight plugs that will have to be changed from 4 pin to 7 pin, unless you can get the lighting loom from the donor car at the scrappy? easy enough to get the loom off. The main differance in the post 1998 is the method of connecting up to the fusebox area, the signal wire from the headlight switch 3pin connector goes to a blue 10 pin connector behind the fusebox.

I've got all the bits to do mine just waiting on the weather as I don't have a garage to work in and don't fancy freezing my nadgers off!!

- also nige8021,

the 19 pin headlight conn , is this the connector in the engine bay, near to the radiator?

and if so, does this mean that the wiring preperations are already in the car loom if you already have that red connector at the back of the fuse box?

thank you

Yes the 19 pin is by the radiator and from my understanding the required wiring is included in the basic loom back to the fusebox and that red connector will be behind the fusebox (only on pre 1998 cars) then it's a case of running the four wires from that plug up to the new headlight switch three pin plug, then you will have to modify the wiring loom from the 19 pin to the headlight plugs that will have to be changed from 4 pin to 7 pin, unless you can get the lighting loom from the donor car at the scrappy? easy enough to get the loom off. The main differance in the post 1998 is the method of connecting up to the fusebox area, the signal wire from the headlight switch 3pin connector goes to a blue 10 pin connector behind the fusebox.

I've got all the bits to do mine just waiting on the weather as I don't have a garage to work in and don't fancy freezing my nadgers off!!

These are the wiring diagrams for both setups

thanks for the help :)

thank you pal,

can i ask where you got the wiring diagram from? as it doesnt look like haynes stuff.

thats very helpful , i thought i had to run a completely new harness from engine bay to switch.

thank you pal,

can i ask where you got the wiring diagram from? as it doesnt look like haynes stuff.

thats very helpful , i thought i had to run a completely new harness from engine bay to switch.

The diagrams are from the ElsaWin Dvd