Hi guys wondering if anyone can help me i have a polo 9n that when u put the indicators on they dont tick. I have replaced the hazard warning button hoping this would solve the issue but it doesnt.

The indicators and hazards all work fine but no tick...

Thanks VWCR

Edited 2 February, 201115 yr by vwcr

On the 9n the bit that ticks zis not actually a relay, it is part of the instrument cluster and would Ned to be removed tO either repair it or replace it.

HTH

On the 9n the bit that ticks zis not actually a relay, it is part of the instrument cluster and would Ned to be removed tO either repair it or replace it.

HTH

Is this a big job???

To remove the cluster is not to difficult , iirc there are 2 torx head screws just above the cluster and thee is q little panel just under it above the seeding column and under. Think there are 2 more.

If you plan on replacing it you have to use vagcom or I think vagtacho which are pc based diagnostic tools, but this can all be done at home and doesn't require the skills of a mechanic or anything

To remove the cluster is not to difficult , iirc there are 2 torx head screws just above the cluster and thee is q little panel just under it above the seeding column and under. Think there are 2 more.

If you plan on replacing it you have to use vagcom or I think vagtacho which are pc based diagnostic tools, but this can all be done at home and doesn't require the skills of a mechanic or anything

Starting to sound expesive if i have to replace and cant repair the current one.. And vagcom etc this will also cost a fair bit?

To remove the cluster is not to difficult , iirc there are 2 torx head screws just above the cluster and thee is q little panel just under it above the seeding column and under. Think there are 2 more.

If you plan on replacing it you have to use vagcom or I think vagtacho which are pc based diagnostic tools, but this can all be done at home and doesn't require the skills of a mechanic or anything

Starting to sound expesive if i have to replace and cant repair the current one.. And vagcom etc this will also cost a fair bit?

Vagcom/Vagtacho - find someone near you with a working copy, not really worth buying your own interface cables etc unless you're going to use it.

I took an old tacho unit apart lately to see how it all worked - swapping the sound unit on its own isn't straightforward - some fine soldering required. I'll put a couple of photos of it on here later to give you a flavour of what it's like to take apart.

Look on Ebay for a 2nd hand tacho unit, make sure it's from the same model as yours. Whether you solder the unit from one tacho to the other, or swap the entire tacho...

Photos of the sound unit on the rear of the instrument circuit board...

The offending unit:

Side-on view

Rear view (3 black plastic tabs & a black guide pin)

One of the tabs depressed. Unit won't come lose as it's still soldered

Showing the 2 points on the circuit boards you need to de-solder to release the unit

paddy2besure great information can you buy replacements to repair this?

Sorry just read your post above about buying a second tacho.. I'm very good with a soldering iron so I'm confident i could do this. My question is if i repaired the one i currently have would i need vagcom etc etc if I'm putting the original one back in?

Edited 11 January, 201115 yr by vwcr

If you replace your existing sound unit, no recoding etc required - plug'n'play (not plug'n'pray)! If you replace the current instruments, they will need recoding.

Shall I de-solder this sound unit here & send to you? Worth a punt (maybe)....

paddy2besure that would be great i can then try and source some for people with future problems...

I take it the one u have is not working?

I take it the one u have is not working?

No idea whether it is or not (it probably is though), I bought a cheap cluster off Ebay, then plundered all the backlighting LED's from it!

Ok thats great stuff would really be great full for the speaker ..

Can you pm me and then i can send you my address.

To remove the instruments...

Put the steering wheel as low as it will go.

Pull off the trim panel under the instruments / above the steering wheel column (short black panel), and rest it on the steering column shroud.

You can now see 2 torx-head screws; remove them.

Now the instruments can be pulled out towards you. They'll be a bit tight, but they will come out.

There's 2 plugs to undo. The LHS one just pulls off with a squeeze. The RHS one has a catch on it to undo.

Once the instruments are out, you need to undo the casing - work your way around the outside undoing the clips as you go. Once released, the casing comes apart.

You need to remove the needles & instrument panel sheet next; the needles just pull off, but make sure you mark their exact position before you remove them! Also, they're pretty stiff to remove, so I slid a kitchen knife behind them & the sheet and levered them off that way.

You should now have a naked instrument circuit board... happy soldering!

To remove the instruments...

Put the steering wheel as low as it will go.

Pull off the trim panel under the instruments / above the steering wheel column (short black panel), and rest it on the steering column shroud.

You can now see 2 torx-head screws; remove them.

Now the instruments can be pulled out towards you. They'll be a bit tight, but they will come out.

There's 2 plugs to undo. The LHS one just pulls off with a squeeze. The RHS one has a catch on it to undo.

Once the instruments are out, you need to undo the casing - work your way around the outside undoing the clips as you go. Once released, the casing comes apart.

You need to remove the needles & instrument panel sheet next; the needles just pull off, but make sure you mark their exact position before you remove them! Also, they're pretty stiff to remove, so I slid a kitchen knife behind them & the sheet and levered them off that way.

You should now have a naked instrument circuit board... happy soldering!

Thanks very much will i need to disconnect the battery so the ecu doesnt know i have disconnected the panel?

I didn't. Nothing happened to mine... do it if you want to be on the safe side. I wouldn't (and didn't) bother. Just don't switch the ignition on when the panel is out.

Great stuff thanks mate

Tutorial

Ok guys First off Make sure the keys are not in the ignition then lower the steering wheel to the lowest position..

Then take a flat Blade driver and carefully remove the plastic trim from under the clocks.

Now you should see two torx screws as from the picture below...

Now remove the screws and slowly pull the clocks towards you.

Behind is two cables, the one on the left has a clip you need to push in and the one on the right has a lever mechanism.

Once you have the clocks out the next stage is to take the plastic back panel off the clocks. This is held on by clips as shown in the picture below.

Once you have the back off it will look like this and you will see the speaker that needs replacing..

To get to the speak to unsolder this you need to removed the arms on the dials, to do this you need to take the unit out of the plastic front cover. Turn it over so that you can see the clocks.

This next stage is probably the hardest part, you have to take your time and slowly take the needles off each of the four dials.. I used a knife blade to do this.

ALSO MAKE SURE YOU MAKE THE ORIGINAL POINTS THE NEEDLES ARE POINT TO.

It should then look like this..

Now just remove the clocks plastic sheet and behind that is a white plastic shell attached to the pcb board.

This is just clipped on so go ahead and unclip leaving you then with the pcb ready to unsolder the speaker.

I was very lucky and big thanks goes to paddy2besure for sending me a speaker off an old unit he had.

I do believe a standard 12V PCB Piezo Indicator from maplin will do the job just as good if not better since the vw one is fine but a little quiet when the radio is on..

12V Piezo Indicator

Once done reassemble the clocks and test.

Ok big thanks go to paddy2besure for this couldnt have done it with out you..

Anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

VWCR

Edited 2 February, 201115 yr by vwcr

No probs - I'm glad to have helped

I do believe a standard 12V PCB Piezo Indicator from maplin will do the job just as good if not better since the vw one is fine but a little quiet when the radio is on.

I'm not sure about that - the VW unit is a speaker, and doesn't just do the indicator clicks, it does warning noises too...

Glad you're sorted!