First of all, this is not my design, all credit for the design and text goes to Caretakerplus, i am merely the messenger! :)

tracking gauge by dansharpy, on Flickr

Construction and Use Notes for the D.i.Y. Tracking Gauge.

The ultimate check for the tracking being correctly set is in the way that the tyres wear (or rather,

don’t wear!) This is best observed by running your hand across the tread, if it feels the same in both

directions, then the setting is fine. If on the otherhand, it feels ‘rough’ in one direction, but ‘smooth’

in the other, then the tracking is in need of adjustment.

This simple gauge is at least as good as the tracking gauges found in many tyre depots, which are

perfectly good in themselves, but hardly ever get re-calibrated, this in turn, leads to inaccurate.

settings.

I have put in three alternatives for fixing the dowels to the uprights. Which one you use depends upon

your own choice, or what materials you have at hand.

This gauge is intended for one size of road wheel only, but with a little modification in design, could

be made more versatile, the idea of this article is to give an idea of just what can be done with a few

hand tools and a little skill. All of the materials for the components may be purchased from your local

B&Q branch, but many people will have at least some of these in their ‘it-will-come-in-useful-one-

day’ box.

Another addition, if you wish, could be a method of keeping the gauge in contact with the wheel rims,

(elastic bands with hooks on, for example.)

Materials Required:

1) 2off- Suitable lengths of board (scaffold plank?) for the bases.

2) 4off- Wood for the uprights, beech or ash would be nice, but some straight grained 50 by50mm of

B&Qs best will be fine.

3) 1off- Length of 10mm dowel.

4) For the basic version, 4off- 6mm by 30mm set bolts. For version ‘X’ 1m by 25mm by 3mm strip

steel would also be required. For version ‘Y’, you would need instead 4off – 60mm by 6mm set bolts,

4off – 6mm wing nuts and 8off 6mm repair washers.

5) (Optional) 1off- length of aluminium or plastic angle for corner ‘A’ (see sketch.)

6) Mortice joints are recommended for fixing the uprights to the base boards, but if it is wished to fix

these by some other method, suitable brackets would be required.

7) If the ‘basic’ version or version ‘X’ are to be made, m6 taper/second tap would also be required.

8) A bench drill or a drill stand for a hand drill, plus the normal hand tools are required.

9) If uprights are to be morticed to the baseboards, a supply of wood glue will be required.

10) 1off - Measuring rod. (this can be home-made, see method of use to give you ideas for this)

Method of Construction:

Cut the base boards about one and a half to two times TYRE diameter

Cut the four uprights about 50mm longer than the height of the road wheel. If the uprights are to be

morticed to the baseboards, reduce all four sides of the uprights at one end only by 6mm on each side

for a distance equal to the thickness of the base board.

Mark the position of the uprights on the baseboards such that the centre lines of the uprights are equal

to the wheel rim diameter (see sketch) the uprights should be 60mm from corner ‘A’ if using scaffold

plank for the base. This distance would have to be adjusted if other widths of baseboard were used.

At this point, decide if the ‘basic version,’ or version ‘X,’ or version ‘Y’ is to be made, and if the

uprights are to be morticed (recommended) to the baseboards, or to be attached by brackets.

Mark the position of the holes for the dowels in the uprights, such that, when completed, the dowels

are on the horizontal centre line of the road wheels. If the ‘basic’ version is being made, mark the

position of the 4.5mm hole, which is to be drilled at 90 degrees to the dowel holes (see sketch.)

If version ‘Y’ is to be made, mark the position of the 6mm hole, 25mm below the lower edge of the

dowel holes (see sketch ‘Y’.)

With a bench drill or with the use of a drill stand, drill all of the holes.

Chop out the mortices in the baseboards. (if applicable.)

If making version ‘Y’, put the saw cut from the top of the uprights through to the 6mm hole. (see

sketch.)

If the ‘basic’ model is being made, tap the 4.5mm hole to 6mm.

If preferred, or if you don’t have the facilities to plane corner ‘A’ straight and square, attach the

aluminium or plastic angle.

Glue and fit the uprights to the baseboard, making sure that all components are ‘square’ to the

baseboards.

Leave at least 24 hours for the glue to set.

Cut the 10mm dowel to four suitable lengths and sharpen one end to a point (a grinding wheel comes

in handy for this, but don’t tell the health and safety man!) Cut off each point to give a 6mm (ish) end

which in use will contact the wheel rim.

Assemble as per sketch.

Calibration:

Place the baseboards on a level(ish) floor, (see sketch) with an off-cut of the uprights placed between

each board at each end.

With a rule, rather than a tape-measure, check that the boards are parallel, being equally spaced at

each end.

Adjust the ‘pointed’ dowels so that the contact each other in the centre of the gap between the base

boards. Lock the dowels in this position, using the method of locking that you have chosen to make.

Checking the Tracking:

This should be done on a level(ish) floor.

Make sure that the wheel rims run ‘true’, if they don’t, it would be as well to change them for a wheel

from the rear of the car that does run ‘true’, at least until the tracking is adjusted.

Run the car FORWARDS onto the area upon which you are going to work, and allow it to roll to a

halt, or stop it on the hand brake. (This eliminates any upset to the tracking which may be caused

through stopping on the foot brake.)

Place the ‘pointed’ ends of the dowel on the wheel rim of both wheels, taking care not to knock the

gauge, which could throw it out of calibration.

Using the measuring rod, (home-made or otherwise.) measure the distance between corners ‘A’ at a

position in line with the rear of the wheels.

Now measure the distance between the base boards at a position in line with the front of the wheels.

If you would find it easier, you can of course measure between the outer edges of the baseboards,

PROVIDING that these outer edges are EXACTLY parallel with the inner edges.

Any difference in the two measurements represents toe-in or toe-out.

After carrying out any adjustment to the tracking, take the car for a short drive, allow it to roll to a halt

(or stop it on the hand brake) as before and re-check the tracking, carrying out any further adjustment

as required, repeat this until you are satisfied with the results.

NB This is one reason for having the wheels running ‘true’ as any variation will make it impossible to

get consistent results.

I wish to say a big ‘Thank you’ to ‘dansharpy’ without whose help, I wouldn’t have been able to get

the sketches on to the Forum.

tracking gauge by dansharpy, on Flickr

Edited 26 January, 201115 yr by dansharpy

hi this is great

I'm in the process of making one of these but I'm slightly stuck with how you use it.

Are there any more diagrams? I don't understand what you mean by 'measure the distance between the boards at point A in line wi rear / front wheels'.

Thanks

Russ

Hi Russ,

Thanks for your interest in the DiY tracking gauge.

Allow me to expand on the use of the tracking gauge.

Assuming that the gauge has been calibrated as stated:

Place the 'blunt pointed' dowels on to the wheel rims, (you may wish to add some elastic bands to hold them in position)

take care not to knock the gauge, or you may affect the calibration.

The actual measuring of tracking is done by using a measuring rod, rather than a tape measure, as this will give greater accuracy, this measuring rod can be home-made, it doesn't require graduations all the way along it, as you are only interested in a few mms' for the purpose of checking for any difference between the spacing of the boards at the rear of the front wheel and at the front of the front wheel.

Pass the rod under the car, first at the rear of the front wheel, gently place the far end of the measuring rod against the far board (so that it contacts edge 'A')

Note the measurement against edge 'A' of the nearest board.

Withdraw the rod.

Now, working at the front of the wheels, again measure the distance between the two edge 'A's.

If the second reading is less than the first, then the steering is toeing in.

If the second reading is greater than the first, then the steering is toeing out.

If both readings are the same, the wheels are parallel.

I hope that this clears up what was rather ambiguous on my part.

Do feel free to come back if there are any other problems, either in the construction or in the use of the gauge.

Regards.

Edited 13 March, 201115 yr by caretakerplus