Right I was looking at drop plates there and I no that you can fit mk2 golf stub axels in the back of a mk3 polo so dose this mean that the drop plates for the mk2 golf would also fit?

Yes mate. They should fit yeah. Have you got a link to these plates? Quite interested myself

http://www.banchwerks.com/plates.html there a link to there site and thanks for the info

Sound. Whats the additional drop, -5mm? I had a threa about this a while ago, still considering it

Bout a 50mm drop by the looks. The 0, 2.5 and 5 are the degrees of negative camber you can get them in. Probably get an engineering shop to make some cheaper.

Why would you want to? You can set up a mk3 on cheapy philj shocks and it'll sit pretty much on the floor already.

You maintain ride comfort this way. When I started this thread a while back, people were against the idea, as they thought they would flex. However if made with thick enough materials, and braced to thevrear axle, I'd see no problem. Would fuck the camber off though. Looking at that pic, I'd say the 5 of 2.5 may be castor angle

I think it's for camber going to get some 2.5s in a few weeks sent them a email there see how much they would be posted to Ireland

They are hella expensive i made my own cost me £10 for the steel plate and took me an hour to make 2 on the cnc miller and if i charged myself engineering prices to make these its like 35 to 45 an hour so all in if i didnt make them myself would have cost me £55 not $215 or whatever dollars they are charging maybe i should start making them and selling them myself i would do them for the half the price they are offering lol mine dont have camber though as I'm using some shims but it wouldnt take much extra for me to machine the faces at an angle to add some negative camber. I love the fact i can do this stuff my self .

Cool fancy makeing me up a set any pics of the ones you made?

Il see if i can cad some drawings up and get a price for some being made mate may take a little while as i can only do stuff for myself at work but I'm sure i could get them made at a good engineering company i know for not too bad of a price and see if i can get them cambered etc and laser cut profiles. leave it with me and il get back to you when would you be wanting some.

oh and pics are on my build thread the ones i made are forward plates to re center the rear stub axle after i put mk2 golf arches on my bready but its the same principal instead of it being horizontal its vertical though.

if you got me a rough price anytime realy just give me a bit of warning would they still be strong enough if you cut the face of them to be angled? would they be bettere bent like the banchwork plates?

I really dont like this.

As the plate sits at an angle,if you then bend it for camber,its not sitting true - the wheel would point toe-in. This is the case with any camber on a trailing swing arm when its not sitting horizontal (lowered,or under load) - unlike a wishbone from the true axle line,as with Civic/Focus/air cooled VW etc which can camber without toeing.

it wouldnt be bent for camber it would have a face machined at an angle and not saying 100 percent i would do them as would have to look into legalities anyways and making sure I'm not liable for anything if i did just to clear that up lol.

Regardless. I think the point being made is that any camber on a polo, regardless of the method results in toe in

Bent or machined its irrelevant how,if you camber that plate the wheel will sit toe-in.

Also,again using that pic as the example,the wheel would not sit in the centre of the arch. Better would be to stagger/revolve the keys so that the wheel would sit correctly in the middle. Not quite the problem of the camber issue,but still.

I still struggle to see the point in these

First up if you drop the rear by say 50mm with them you are still going to have to buy a lowering kit to lower the front the same so why not just fit the full lowering kit in the first place and not bother with the drop plates? Saying these would make it a more comfortable ride isn't true because you will still more than likely have a stiffer lowering kit on the front, all it would mean is you would have stiff at the front and softer at the rear which isn't going to do the handling much good. the only way around it would be to get standard sized rear springs made with the same rates to match the fronts or visa versa, adding more cost and once again begging the question why not just fit a good quality lowering kit for probably a shit load cheaper?

Secondly they don't look safe, its all well and good saying that they are thicker so they won't flex, but that's only going to move the problem along to the next weak point. Moving the 2 sets of holes away from each other is going to act like a lever, the further away from each other they are the more strain it will put on the bolts or the mounting points. I guess this could be counter acted by welding in some solid metal to the top of the axle where the higher part of the drop plate sits and bolting the plate to it, but is it really worth all that hassle when you could just fit a lowering kit?

also these will add poke to the rear wheels, looking at that pic it shouldn't cause much trouble for standard wheels (unless they have balloon tires) but any thing with a lower et or more girth could have problems.

With regards to the handling,there's no use having it soft at the rear and harder at the front - the car will squat and lift one front wheel up in corners,giving you poor (potentially terrible) traction whilst cornering. How are you gonna get 50+mm down at the front without going harder?

I cant see any insurer touching this with a bargepole - and the irresponsibility of ignoring that threatens another nail in the coffin of our freedom to modify our cars.

Chassis mods require a little more expertise than this. I'm now off to try and find something nice to say to someone..

I'm sure mikeymk is gettin confused with toe in and camber ?

how will that plate above cause the wheels to "toe-in" ?

That when wheels toe in if your guna post on a topic atleast know what your talking about lol

Edited 23 February, 201115 yr by tony100

I'm sure mikeymk is gettin confused with toe in and camber ?

how will that plate above cause the wheels to "toe-in" ?

That when wheels toe in if your guna post on a topic atleast know what your talking about lol

Suspension is not static... As the suspension compresses it will induce toe in.

It's all about the way the rear axle reacts to being lowered tony. Think about your hydros, when they are up if you put a tipx mark on the top of the tire then dropped them the tipx would no longer be at the top, it would be further round to the front.

Now if you rear wheel is leaning in at the top, when you lower it the angle of the axle changes meaning that where the wheel was toe-in at the top, its now toe-in more towards the front of the wheel.

Hope that makes some kind of sense

I also don't like these.. the idea is that you can use standard suspension but have a lower car. Now the reason that lowered suspension is stiffer is to stop the car bottoming out and having the wheel interface with the car.

With this set-up you are increasing the chance that this will happen. So rather than having firm suspension and go banging down the road you are still going to go banging down the road but the noise will be your car bottoming out or your wheel ripping your arch off

if your guna post on a topic atleast know what your talking about lol

quote for truth and ironic effect

my car is lowered i want to lower more at the back to sort of stance it (i have already made some coilovers for the front) it i need to be about 50mm lower so that would do it and for the poke issues i have some eclats which are would need to go out 15 or 20mm to level out with the front? i only posted up this up because i seen them being used on mk3 golfs and thought it would be a good idea and i haven't got a cule what make of mk1 coilovers to get and even if they would get me as low as i want to thanks for info