Is it at all possible to covert a mk3 gt to rear disc breaks

if so how hard is it and is it worth it ?

thanks rob

yes it is relatively easy, get the stub axle and brake set up off a mk2 golf, fit on the axle, ideally get some mk3 callipers as they are better, but not important

once on you need to fabricate some handbrake cables and that is it, i did this on mine and it was easy enough

dont expect better breaking tho they will be about the same, they are just easier to service more than anything, and that alone was enough reason for me to do it!

Roughly speaking. 16V mk2 golf bits and a strung together handbrake cable. The back brakes on little cars don't do a vast amount, and the polo drums are more than enough, but it'd be a nice mod to have in my opinion (if for no other reason than not having to do brake shoe changes ever again).

chears guys for that.

i know what you mean about the shoes i hate them as well.

The thing is I'm trying to build a high spec GT about 100 BHP and was thinking would it still stop ? It has uprated front discs 239mm vented and grooved but at the moment at low speeds under heavy breaking they are really easy to lock up. just thinking is this a good route to take or should i go back to the solid discs ?

I think it will be different with the extra power but just wondering if they will have a tendency to lock up still, anyone know ?

I wouldn't bother unless you are going to spend extra money on aluminium mk4 golf rear calipers. The earlier ones on mk2 golfs and mk3 golfs are VERY prone to seizing up and I'd argue more of a pain in the arse to service than drums. Pads don't last as long as shoes either :)

It will make sod all difference to the braking of your car, the standard drums are good enough for the amount of weight over the backs wheels of a mk3 polo. In fact you're more likely to end up with an over-braked rear end meaning the back wheels will be more likely to lock up sending you backwards through the nearest hedge.

I think the most common reason for doing this is purely for looks as drums do look a bit agricultural

I'm shallow, and doing it for looks

I'm shallow, and doing it for looks

Same Just need to get off my arse and fit it all.

Alloy mk4 calipers, mk2 carriers & stub axels. home made handbrake cables. (mk4 calipers DONT fit under 13s without grinding the fins down on the back)

you need to run the polo GT/G40 balance adjuster, other wise like hayesey says you will anchor up and end up backwards through the hedge.

You will also need to run a 22.2mm master cylinder from a 16v golf minimum, but i personally would use a 24mm one from a sharan/T4 otherwise the pedal is quite long!

Does the bias adjuster need to attached to the beam with the spring, or is it possible to just use it as a static adjustment?

i've no idea on that one unfortunately as mine has a bias pedal box in, so it doesn't need it.

I have a bias lever inside the car to adjust mine too.

I don't see why you couldn't fix the auto-adjuster under the car in one position but you'll need to find some way of holding it still as once you disconnect the spring it'll just flop about.

That's the problem I'm having. Sonthe lever needs to be pulled "down" forbid to work? I'm sure I can fix something up. Unless anyone knows if vw do the roller and spring?