Do g lader siete arb blocks help to actually stiffen up the suspension, cause atm I'm running a mk2 lowered 90/60 with a philj kit with 7x13 et -7 alley cats and as u can guess the arches are slamming on them pretty regularly, what else will stiffen up the front??

ppp or pps subframe mate, i wouldnt own a polo without one

ppp or pps subframe mate, i wouldnt own a polo without one

Any more info on these mate, how u fit em and how do i get hold of one? Whats the difference between the 2 uve specified? cheers pal

Look in the traders section for PPP. depending on which one you chose, its either a front and rear lower brace with gear box mount, a full subframe, with the above parts welded together, or the stage 3 is a full subframe with wish bone suspension and no ARB. Stage 2 and 3 need ARB blocks to work though. All bolt to standard mounting points on the chassis, and both brands (PPS and PPP) offer similar product. Not sure what differences are though. Search for both in google (Performance Polo Parts and Performance Polo Services)

and regarding the blocks, maxmax is making some that should be better and cheaper so give him a shout.

Better? Is he not making them from aluminium? They'll not be maintenance free like the poly ones if he is as they will need greasing regularly. The poly ones are self lubricating. If they're not going to be ally, I'll be tapping him up for a set if he's doing them to order!

And regarding the OP, they do stiffen up the front a little, but the main aim is to sort the castor out (bring the wheels froward in the arches). The wheels tend to creep backwards when a polo is lowered, these drag it forward an inch or so, back into the middle

Edited 28 February, 201115 yr by prankstar2003

Hes pretty good when it comes to making shit so i reckon theyll be pretty good! he messaged me just after i bought some g lad ones so i cant speak from experience here, sorry :/

Wounded! I dont dispute he can make them, and I'm sure the quality is fine. But mikeymk made ally ones, an they need greasing regularly. I also think he had a channel put into them to keep the grease in place. I'm assuming Max is making them to the design which I directed him to on polo3. If so, they are for a product made in plastic. I can only see ally ones wearing out eventually if not properly serviced, as the ARB is steel, and therefore the harder material

Pretty sure the OP asked what would stiffen his front sus, not stiffen up the front end generally. Harder springs, raise the car or get some arch work done are the only ways to get it to stop it from rubbing over bumps!

Plus the castor shouldnt need sorting, it's only the angle of the steering axis, not how the wheel sits in relation to the chassis.

Edited 28 February, 201115 yr by Iscariot

The ones I'm currently designing/making for myself are from glass filled nylon, not aliminium. I wont be selling any on here because we already have a seller for the blocks. when i get a section set-up , i may be producing other sorts of bushes from the same material, but only time will tell.

M

the blocks wont make your suspension any stiffer. They'll correct castor angle after lowering and stop the arb from moving about so much. Not nearly as effective as a subframe but obviously quite a lot cheaper.

the blocks wont make your suspension any stiffer. They'll correct castor angle after lowering and stop the arb from moving about so much. Not nearly as effective as a subframe but obviously quite a lot cheaper.

I want a subframe.

Just cant justify 500 notes.

Pretty sure the OP asked what would stiffen his front sus, not stiffen up the front end generally. Harder springs, raise the car or get some arch work done are the only ways to get it to stop it from rubbing over bumps!

Plus the castor shouldnt need sorting, it's only the angle of the steering axis, not how the wheel sits in relation to the chassis.

You're missing the point. When its lowered,the wheel sits back in the arch due to the angle of the ARB. this causes the tyre to foul the rear of the arch.

Move the ARB forwards and the wheel is centred in the arch better,so it doesn't foul the rear of the arch,hence more arch clearance and less or no rubbing. No changing wheels or tyres,no raising suspension,no harder springs.

Despite it being slammed hard,look how far forward in the arch my wheel sits. With standard ARB mounts my 185x60 tyre would rub the back of the arch,but there's no rubbing because it sits well positioned.

The ones I'm currently designing/making for myself are from glass filled nylon, not aliminium. I wont be selling any on here because we already have a seller for the blocks. when i get a section set-up , i may be producing other sorts of bushes from the same material, but only time will tell.

M

My mistake, sorry. thought you had mentioned ally as a material in an earlier post.

Who sells them on here then? As far as I'm aware, philj has packed it in

So mikey mk, the arb blocks could be the difference between rubbing and it not rubbing, it might be just enough to help me then :)

Who on here does sell em, anyone know?

So mikey mk, the arb blocks could be the difference between rubbing and it not rubbing, it might be just enough to help me then :)

Who on here does sell em, anyone know?

phil j sells them on here

jackson tuning section

Pretty sure the OP asked what would stiffen his front sus, not stiffen up the front end generally. Harder springs, raise the car or get some arch work done are the only ways to get it to stop it from rubbing over bumps!

Plus the castor shouldnt need sorting, it's only the angle of the steering axis, not how the wheel sits in relation to the chassis.

You're missing the point. When its lowered,the wheel sits back in the arch due to the angle of the ARB. this causes the tyre to foul the rear of the arch.

Move the ARB forwards and the wheel is centred in the arch better,so it doesn't foul the rear of the arch,hence more arch clearance and less or no rubbing. No changing wheels or tyres,no raising suspension,no harder springs.

On all cars though? Mine was as low as it would sit on the original struts and the wheel was still fairly well centred. I'd like to see the OP's car, i bet he's running 13x7 ET-7 with 175/50 tyres, in which case just sorting the castor out isnt gonna stop the top of the arch buzzing on the tyres every time he goes over a bump.

My old car with standard ARB blocks just for reference

Edited 1 March, 201115 yr by Iscariot

Standard ARB blocks? What are they?

And are people sure philj is still selling the blocks, last time i looked he wasnt replying to posts, and someone else mentioned he'd sacked it off. Please confirm?

My bad, you know what i mean haha, standard ARB mounts.

Ok, cool. I do now!

will this help out the problem of the steering arm bashing a hole through my arch, because its constanly knocking if I'm turning left, so who actually does sell the arb blocks then?

http://www.g-laderseite.de/eshop/product_i...amp;language=en

No... Its because you are running very low and your steering arm its hitting the top of the inner arch hole or your drive shaft is hitting the chassis rail.

http://www.g-laderseite.de/eshop/product_i...amp;language=en

No... Its because you are running very low and your steering arm its hitting the top of the inner arch hole or your drive shaft is hitting the chassis rail.

any cheaper than g-lader?

it aint the driveshft, its when its got a fair bit of weight on the right wheel, i can put a few pictures up to show? so the arb blocks will sort this? or would it be a good idea for some bump stops too?

this is with the car up in the air it probably has about 2inches when lowerd

Edited 8 April, 201115 yr by supercheal

Bump stops.

The blocks may make the difference between punching a hole in the battery tray and denting the join to the turret instead,but either way you're gonna do body damage without bump stops (and possibly strut damage).

Id say you're just too low tbh,but such is the scene..

Iscariot, yeah yours looks the same,but they're wide banded 13in wheels with low profile tyres. It only took the slightest turn of the steering to make them appear in the same position.

I assure you my hubs are virtually an inch further forward,and with the same wheels you'd notice the difference even from a distance picture.

any one that says polo front wheels go further back when lowered are talking out of there arse, proof...

look you can clea... oh wait, actually

just to show that it wasn't broken, here the wheel is centred, they do blatantly tuck back the lower they go, it's a design flaw with this sort of set up, so it's not only going to do it on some and not others

Edited 8 April, 201115 yr by McLOVIN