It's physically impossible for the wheels not to go back into the arches when a MK1/2/3 is lowered due to the way it's designed!

Only way they wouldn't go back in the arches is if you unbolted the ARB (lol), or got adjustable wishbones/arb blocks!

Bump stops.

The blocks may make the difference between punching a hole in the battery tray and denting the join to the turret instead,but either way you're gonna do body damage without bump stops (and possibly strut damage).

Id say you're just too low tbh,but such is the scene..

Iscariot, yeah yours looks the same,but they're wide banded 13in wheels with low profile tyres. It only took the slightest turn of the steering to make them appear in the same position.

I assure you my hubs are virtually an inch further forward,and with the same wheels you'd notice the difference even from a distance picture.

ok thanks this has helped out a fair bit :), so g-laders and bump stops, what sort of length would i be looking for? and what would be recomended, powerflex, polybush?

If you fit bump stops that are too long,you'll be riding on them all the time. You only need them to stop it smashing itself up.

Mine are standard ones,dont know what car they're off,think they're from my old Ibiza GTi, but they dont need to do much work.

Standard ARB blocks? What are they?

And are people sure philj is still selling the blocks, last time i looked he wasnt replying to posts, and someone else mentioned he'd sacked it off. Please confirm?

Polo Performance Parts sell them - we're dealers for G-laderseite products now. :-)

And with regards to subframes, it's only the stage 2 that needs the blocks. Stage 3 does away with the ARB altogether.

As Mikey says, if you're lowered, the ARB blocks are a good investment to correct your castor angle after lowering. Has the advantage of making the car look better too, in so far as the front wheels are re-centred in the arches.

Edited 9 April, 201115 yr by Andy