BTW you can get a tool that removes the pins from car electrical plugs (although I just tend to use those tiny screwdrivers you can get), once the pins out you can feed the wire through the plug, solder it on to the pin then pull the wire back through the plug and push the wire back in...

Or like you say you could just solder another plug on. Only 2 of those wires are used tho which I thought was strange. When I stripped the wire back on the one on my mk2 I thought one has come out but when I checked on this one to see where it went it was exactly the same, think its the bare wire iirc

And 3 cheers for your old man

BTW you can get a tool that removes the pins from car electrical plugs (although I just tend to use those tiny screwdrivers you can get), once the pins out you can feed the wire through the plug, solder it on to the pin then pull the wire back through the plug and push the wire back in...

Or like you say you could just solder another plug on. Only 2 of those wires are used tho which I thought was strange. When I stripped the wire back on the one on my mk2 I thought one has come out but when I checked on this one to see where it went it was exactly the same, think its the bare wire iirc

And 3 cheers for your old man

Cool I thought you could buy them tools. Tho I did end up soldering another 2 pin plug on earlier this afternoon instead. I'm not sure if i got the wires the right way around, but with it only being a 2 wire plug, I'm hoping it wont make a difference. And yeah your right It's really odd why theres 3 wires one end then 2 the other lol !!

What your looking at when you mention the 2 holes in the block, is the adapter plate for fitting the afh into a felicia. it was bolted onto the block behind the flywheel and weighs a tonne! And that flywheel was also some of the kit used to mount to a felicia box. The weight of this thing was ridiculous I'm supprised there was any power left at the wheels

Cheers for the tips on getting the pulley off ill give that a go.

Can I ask which pully I'm supposed to trim down? is it the one off the crank or the alternator? anyway thats what I'll be doing tomorrow, this is what I've done tonight.

First off, I did a bit of soldering before tea. One repaired knock sensor cable !

then after tea, I relaised my anti-roll bar blocks had arrived whilst I was at work, so I set about getting them on.

I found using a small rope on the roll bar, attached to my engine lift gear under the front panel, pulled the bar forward the required inch without damaging or bending the panel.

heres a very clear view of the difference before and after they are fitted.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

Next job, I fitted the knock sensor cable, and bolted on the starter.

Then there were a few simple jobs to do before the big lift.. Torque up the exhaust manifold to head, change the oil and filter, remove the old down pipe as it I'd forgotten to do it sooner, and remove and clean up the breather system on the back of the block.

Finally, a week after pulling the 'S' block, I lifted the engine in to work out where I need to remove material from the ARB bracket.

This is how close the pulley sits to the bracket!!!!!

SO.. Whats left to do before I can try and fire it up?

this is what i can think of right now.

Mount fuel pump, sort out the alternator pulley mod, grind the arb bracket, bolt up the engine mounts, then plug in and connect everything back up. I have friday off so lets see if i can get it going by monday :-D :-D

Well after all that pissing around with the knock sensor cable, I've just got to a point where I'm plugging it into the loom, and came across this. the loom is a 2 pin plug, but the sensor wire has that stupid 3 pin plug ( left in picture).. So i Think I'm going to chop off the 2 pin plug from the loom, and wire on a 3 pin which i have on my spare loom . Also whilst i have the soldering iron out, I'm going to add a spade female for the oil pressure switch, and a new ring on the alternator cable as i managed to rip it off. I can now confirm that the engine is bolted in with the majority of stuff hooked up tho

It's the alt pulley that needs modding mate, don't look like there's a lot left to go now :-D

Edited 21 January, 201214 yr by Mclovin

It's the alt pulley that needs modding mate, don't look like there's a lot left to go now :-D

Ok cool. I still can't get that f'ing pulley off the mk4 alt! Na not much left at all. Not been too long off the road. Just gotta make an exhaust some how.. Oh cheers for the reply to the PM. I'm about to go turn it over and see if I have a spark. =D

Done a bit more today. Under the car I've now reconnected up the driveshafts fully, mounted the downpipe, and reconnected the gear selector rod. I've also had to do even more wiring and soldering, as the plug for the lambda sensor comming from the downpipe didnt match the 4 pin plug on the loom, so I've had to steal yet another plug off the spare NZ loom i have (not much left of it now )

So my check list to completion now stands at this.

* wire in fuel pump and connect the lines through the pump to the fuel rail.

* Fit EGR delete plates which I'm waiting to be made, I'll have them tomorrow.

* I still have the issue with getting the alternator pulley off and onto the mk2 one.

* Fit water top up and washer bottles.

I seem to be a little stumped with these few things also left to do, any ideas guy lol:

* modify the throttle cable to suit

* Work out what i can do about this exhaust, as my downpipe ends next to the gear selector

* fit tiny fuel lines onto the fuel pump

* Oh and I seem to have a spare outlet on the thermostat housing after connecting all the pipes that are needed.

* And what whould normally plug into this pipe on the back of the throttle body?

And heres a few quick shots of me scanning for fault codes through the OBD. It's come up with 8 error codes so I'm gonna go look up what they all mean now!!

My list of fault codes that came up

00519 - MAP Sensor - Out of Range -G71

00518 - Throttle Position Sensor - Signal Out of Range (G69) Also check for loose ECM power relay.

00530 - Throttle Position Sensor -G88

00522 - Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor -G62

00523 - IAT Sensor - Temp High - Circuit Low - G42

01259 - Fuel Pump Relay Circuit -J17

00282 - Throttle Position Actuator -V60

17978 - Engine Start Blocked by Immobilizer

engine start blocked by immob..BUGGER....

You will get faults on the reader mate as a lot of shit isn't going to be plugged in

For the throttle cable on my mk2 I used a mk3 cable and a bar welded to where the cable enters the bulkhead as a spacer

Not sure if this will help but its a shot of the exhaust on one of my 16v's

Which tiny fuel lines? Are the ones on the car smaller than the ones on injected polo's?

If you could get a photo of the thermostat house and which pipe is spare I can tell you where it should be going

The pipe on the tb on mine is blocked off with a piece of rubber pipe with a bolt in the end. I can't remember what it was for but I obviously deemed it unneeded

Cheers guy Ill see what i can do with the throttle cable then.

The rubber fuel hoses that come off the hard lines on my 'S' are way to small to fit over the inlet/outlets on the fuel pump.

My downpipes going to need a fair bit of modding looking at that pic. the one I've just fitted had been modified to run on the felicia the engine came from, so it goes down as far as where the handbrake is bolded on.

Ill get you a shot of the thermostat. It's prob gonna be another case of fitting a pipe with a bolt in it lol.

I've just been out to the car and tried somthing I just read online. Disconnecting the battery and holding the termnals together. I then cleared all the faults, run the scan again, and 'NO FAULTS FOUND' has come up on the screen. i suppose they were stored in the ECU or somthing...hopfully

Yeah I wouldn't read too much into them fault codes just yet, mark (big burt) ran a code reader on higgo's mk1 and he said no end of fault codes came up because so much stuff wasn't being picked up as it simply wasn't there any more

That exhaust in the pics has been molded to fit, it was just a case of offering it up and seeing where it needed to bend for it to go up the tunnel and around the gear selector. I just made cuts most of the way through the pipe in certain places allowing me to bend it, then offer it up to see if it was enough and if it was weld it up, if not take a little more out of the cut so it bends a little more.

Yes tis true , I'm not sure why it was such a problem on Higgos ? I could never get the throttle body to reset . I'm sure given enough time to sift through the faults it could be rectified.

In Leggys case id get it up running and driving then go from there ? Mark

Good shout both. Well tomorrows my last of 4 days off. I was hoping to have it all finished ready to take for the MOT, but there you go, I still dont think I've done too badly as I've only been off the road a while.

My main priority tomorrow is to get the fuel lines connected through the pump and see if it fires up. (without an exhaust).

If it works, I may well have to drive it with just a down pipe to someone that has a welder, as i dont have one of my own.

My neighbours will love me lol

Mate hats off for doing all this, i would have noooo idea where to start with all that wiring! I'll be employing guy to make me a loom if it comes too it i think.

Well done and keep it up

Lol cheers mate. Yea hes now 'the electrical guy!!

I've just come in from the garage after a devistating heart breaking blow !!! I'll get to that at the bottom of the post.

Todays progress started well. I managed to rob a load of pipe work from my sisters old KA thats about to go to scrap and set about getting the fuel pump hooked up. So heres everything I had to work with. Various size hoses, filters, clips and clamps. I hate buying stuff when I've already got it.

Heres a pic of the bits, and the difference in size of a coupe 'S' pipes, and the afh.

So I bolted the fuel pump into the bay using the old coil bracket, and set about plumbing it in. Took me around an hour or so to do that, then wired the bastard thing in running the reath to the main battery terminal by soldering a ring ontot he end of the wire just for peace of mind of a good earth.. I tried the ignition and all was working well.. pump primed, pressure built up, no leaks...happy days.

Heres comes why I'm so mega pissed off. I started to turn the engine over hoping for any kind of splutter as I've not timed the distributor yet. within 2 or 3 turns of the engine I heard a noise. stopped cranking as i knew straight away what it was. the timing belt only went and slipped due to the fucking belt tensioner comming lose :disgust:

SO I was seconds away from hearing it fire up, and now I've more than likely gotta lift it all out just to reset the timing and fit a new tensioner as theres fuck all room by the chassis leg (unless someone can tell me its possible?) FUCK!

Excuse my language

Agh man not good

You could try getting the engine hoist hooked up and take the loose out of the rope (or chain what ever your using), then remove the front gearbox mount and take the bolt out of the drivers side mount. This might give you enough room to maneuver the engine about to give you access to the cam belt setup, you should have a fair amount of movement in the engine with all the other shit still connected

Just hope nothings bent mate

Yea ill just take off one thing at a time untill i can get access to the cam belt bottom pully. not sure how I can lock the bottom pulley in place while I undo the bolt tho.

I've just oredered a timing belt kit from euro at a cost of £87 with nexy day delivery so it should be here on wednesday.

As for anything being bent, I've not even considered that. How easy is it to bend a valve. I woulda thought the starter wouldnt have the power to do that, and that it would be be somthing that could happen when the engines running at speed. Either way there'll be no way to find out until the kit is on, re-timed, and compression tested. I know you did it but I cant imagine finding another AFH dude lol! I've relaxed a lil' since earlier tho. these things happen eh, as you know . This is why I've done the conversion over winter, to make sure its right for shows and summer!

Yes mate been there myself and know how hurting it is

I've had the timing belt idler seize while I was driving and I know I was getting valve contact cause I could hear it getting worse the slacker the belt got (must of been fairly light tho as it was still running and driving) and some how I didn't bend any valves so you may get away with it but I guess it all depends on how hard they hit. I don't wanna say they should be ok just incase I jinx it tho (i'm pretty superstitious )

Anyway fingers crossed for you

LOL nice one chaps. Yeah a kick in the balls by jesus. I'm not superstitious at all but i did almost run myself over last friday on the 13th LMAO. and yes I should have changed the idler and tensioner when it was in bits, but I just thought I'd get away with it. Guy I was only reading your thread with the melted idler thismorn before this happened.

Now I'm gonna hang my head, and not return until I have a video of it firing up. ETA on running time is set to sunday providing i have compression on all 4 cylinders which I can test BEFORE I bolt it all back in. An hours labour a night should see me there.

Guys always the bearer of bad news.... For example a convo I had earlier with him "Guy have they arrived" "No..." See always bringing the bad news to people! No wonder he's supersticious!

Shame its needing that mate. Least its done. I know its abit of a kick in the balls but before I put it in I would of done everything I could service wise, least you know for when you build a 1.6 afy....

Besta' luck and just think of all the fun you'll be having when its in!

You were right mate. I just fitted the belt kit, and no compression on 1,2,3 or 4. the inlet cam can be turned freely by hand! its gone from a kick in the nuts to a full castration! so it looks like its 8 new inlet valves and a head gasket for me . another £100 down the polo pan and another massive delay on the build.

I've found 8 inlet valves and A replacment head gasket for £89 online. The exhaust cam is still really tight so I'm guessing thats alright. Is it poss they can make contact with the pistons too? and how about the valve stems is there a chance that they could be dmaged? I'm begining to think I should look for a replacment engine from a scrappy thats running as I really need my car back on the road lol.

Best thing to do is to pull the head and see what the damage is mate, at least you will know for sure what it needs rather than just guessing. The last thing you wanna do now is buy the inlets and then find the exhaust ones are bent too.

I guess it could be that just the inlet cam slipped, did you tension the belt with the pointer in the 'fork'?

Yea I tensioned it up correctly to the fork and the timing was set right as I triple checked that before fitting thelump. The tensioner just fucked so I've got the new kit. The exhaust valves are all straight its just the inlets that have gone so I'm gonna get a garage to put them in for me as my homebrew spring compressor was a fucking nightmare! Hopfully this'll be the last week of public transport for me

Ok so this morning the replacement inlet valves arrived. I've dropped them and the head off at the machine shop for them to be fitted, and re-cut the valve seats just to be sure. I should be picking them up tomorrow to refit the head and time the engine with the NEW belt AND tensioner after work. Should this all go to plan we should see it running this weekend (possibly the 3rd time I've said that in a month) .

A few other goodies turned up today! A few goodies also turned up thismorning.1m of 63mm alloy tube and a overkill sized cone filter to couple up with the 90 degree silicone elbow (anyone for a snorkel up the windscreen pillar?) . For some reason I thought I'd be able to fit the oem airbox and be able to close the bonnet, so I now have a spare box with a brand new filter if anyone needs one!

Here we are again with a sunday night update.

I got the head back with the valves all sorted out, and bolted that back on, and built up all the other parts onto the engine.

After calling in a favour from my mate karl (rambo_golf), I've not got 2 perfect EGR delete blanking plates custom made. If anyone wants to buy a set send me a PM and I'm sure I can get him to make a few sets up.

Alternator mod (mk4 pulley onto MK2 alt)

Next I finally got around to sorting out the alternator pulley. the first pic below shows which part needs to be cut off the MK4 pulley to make it suit the mk2 alt. The second pic shows the woodriff key in the shaft, and the notch that has to be made in the MK4 pulley to be able to get it on. The order of fitment I found that worked best goes..

- Fan - 3" diameter washer - thick washer with slot - modded mk4 pulley - 2 large washers - nut -

Pic 3 shows everything fitted, tensioned, and done up mega tight!!

Finally, a quick shot of my intake kit. The pipe will need to be cut and joined in 2 places to bring it across the back of the engine, past the turret, and down to sit behind the headlight.

Another day off work tomorrow (Love flexi titme!!), so the engines going in AM, and turning the key after dinner. Wish me luck!!!

Edited 11 February, 201214 yr by Leggy

Can't wait to see this up and running. Good luck :-).

Cheers Karl neither can I lol ! right I'm pritty much ready to fire it up, just 1 more question..

On the back of the thermostat, which of the 3 in/outlets go to the matrix, and which one is the top up pipe? Reference pic here... So far I've got the one with the green clip connected to the matrix in, and the one with the blue clip going to the top up bottle. I stopped at this point to come and confirm with someone lol.