Why 20 Pence tuning....??

Let's face it your 17 maybe 18 you've got your 1.0L polo because its cheap on the insurance and it didn't cost that much to buy.

You want to mod it because its a slow as a lada full of elephants going up hill....

You want a turbo and NOS because you've seen The fast and the furious...

But you've figured it's going to cost about 20 x10^9 Pence!!

To be honest I've got to really sympathize with you honestly as the insurance has sky rocketed i pay £700 per annum for my insurance

on my 1.4 polo and I'm just shy of 22.

It's good practice for any tuner to plan what they're going to do before they're going to do it. Read up on your stuff make sure you have a decent set of tools.

First: Strip the entire interior to the bone everything gone (carpets seats linings plastics) you could even get rid of the dash and build up a simple custom one to save weight.

Say we can shed 350 kg. You might get more depending how far you want to go...

Why: Polos are heavy with all the refinement and comforts you won't need.

Before: 50BHP weighing 1074 kg do the math: "BHP/TON" therefore 50/1.074= 46.6 BHP/TON (My bicycle has more than that)

After: Still 50BHP weighing 1074 - 350 = 724 kg do the math: 50/0.725 = 69BHP/TON Thats a 20HP Gain for FREE!!

Second: Change you wheels

Why: putting smaller wheels on your polo has the same effect as gearing it down in theory if your change the ratio by say a fifth then your

gear ratio maybe changed by a fifth. The science is in the angular displacement of the wheel. A smaller wheel has a smaller radius a smaller radius

means a smaller circumference of the wheel hence smaller angular displacement.

But wtf does this mean in real terms?? Well for every turn from the drive shaft the distance covered is less hence requires less work from the engine.

Don't believe me W= F*D work= force times by displacement (distance).

try to imagine it as a set of gears if a small gear turns a large gear the large gears turns is proportional to the ratio

If you you reduce the size of the larger gear for every turn of the smaller gear you get more turns at the larger gear.

The interior can be sold on ebay or on here and the money can be used to buy some 10" rims...

And with all the money you've saved you can go to Magaluff on holiday and spit roast an over weight club rep... High Five!

In all honesty though ditch screwing about on the net trying to find out how to bolt turbos on to a 1.0L the gains will be pathetic!

Instead go to college learn engineering as a BTEC you can do a motorsports engineering course most colleges run them then you can

specialise if you want to go to uni. I've got to uni doing a damned good degree with basically no GCSE's it can be done! You just have to stick to it.

When you graduate you can spend your cash on something with abit more potential. :-D

If you want any information about going to college or university drop me a PM. Life's what you make of it...

References: studying IEng in engineering at uni. Also carfolio and some wikipedia for car data.

hang on, lets be realisitc here, there's not a chance in hell you could strip 350kg of interior trim and fixtures from a polo!

hang on, lets be realisitc here, there's not a chance in hell you could strip 350kg of interior trim and fixtures from a polo!

x2 50kg maybe....

Edited 10 March, 201115 yr by Iscariot

the rear interior wieghs about 25-30kgs max, probably alot less actualy.

LIKE - for show initative

lol what a great post! Made me smile anyway

Course to fit 10" rims you'd have to take the brakes off... which i wouldnt recommend but this would add towards the weight saving i suppose!

Rear seats must weigh best part of 30-40 kg easy. Passenger can be ripped out. Dash, linings, spare wheel, tools.

Its only a rough guide or better than wasting time telling kids how to turbo a 1.2 8v

tbh nowadays i'm starting to get round to thinking old-school... forget turbo's and nitrous and other **** like that, just stick a big bastard engine in there, there's no replacement for displacement

There used to be a guy on here who sold a conversion for fitting bike carbs for the 6n block i was gunna shove that it. Allot simpler than messing around with turbos. you can fit an uprated fuel pump bigger jets and cam it... doubt that would cost too much. I've notice a few people on here running bike carbs. Are they any good??

tbh nowadays i'm starting to get round to thinking old-school... forget turbo's and nitrous and other **** like that, just stick a big bastard engine in there, there's no replacement for displacement

Yeah its quite a big scene now. Personally I'd go for the VR6 swap for the V6 howl.

bike carbs are ok for having weekend fun with, but personally i'd avoid them for a daily driver, they can be quite tricky to set up right and the noise will drive you mental on a long run! often they are quite juicy too what with the price of petrol what it is at the moment... god i'm starting to sound like my dad fuel injection FTW!

anyway, modifying any car is a mugs game... unless you've got plenty of money to throw at it and are handy with the spanners it's hardly worth the balls-ache mate, i know i will probably get flamed for saying this as a serial hardened modifier but the amount of financial hardship i've put myself through in the past just for those few extra parts is simply shocking when i look back, my best advice is go and buy a car that's fast to start with! (says me as i'm looking at some technical drawings i've made to fabricate some engine mounts to put a 1.8T in my pickup )

I think a turbo gives a little more gain than some bikecarbs

go to Magaluff on holiday and spit roast an over weight club rep

Frankie is that you?

...too much 'mock the week' me thinks

Decent idea in theory, not gunna argue at all with the maths and advice in the BTEC etc.

Do have a problem with the "just buy a car thats fast in the first place" mentality, as I'm sure you do as well deep down seeing as you're doing a massive conversion!

So bear with me: My car is my car because its my car, i want my car to be fast but i also want my car to be my car. If i bought another car that was fast already it would just be a tool for getting me from A to B. I would appreceate all the creature comforts and the extra (comfortable) speed but I would always know its just a tool. As i guess is the same with you (and most modders on here), we love our cars and most are also prepared to go through the hardship to make our cars how we want them.

Yes, its pointless for someone to try Turboing their 1.0 if they just want some bolt on speed so they can smoke their mates in a race for pink slips but if you decide that you want your car to have a turbo, and you are prepared to put the effort and money in to learn, then you will find that the whole process is about far more than whether the mod you have done is worth it in a speed-money ratio.

Sorry for the ramble, just felt like expressing myself!

Erm Rear seats weigh 30-40 Kg don't think so mate and anglular displacement, what cereal packet have you read that off? the words you are stumbling for are rolling radius and circumference, Displacement is a different thing entirely. also presuming you could fit 10" wheels (without your brakes) your top speed would be about 60.

Did you start your course in sept by any chance think you might need to progress a little further.

Turbo will do a dam sight more than bike carbs, its all right throwing loads of fuel in but you need the air to go in with it

A turbo can also increase MPG too if driven correctly (not likely though as you'll be using all that extra power)

My References: City and guilds 201-214 ONC, HNC and HND, NVQ 3 all in engineering oh and 15 years in the trade.

I'm sorry, but have you ever lifted rear polo seats?, the mk1-3 seats can be blown round with a leaf blower, and the 6n> seats can be piked up by one hand.

I have to disagree with you a bit skoda boy, my bike carbs are suitible for daily needs, and i wouldnt say there perfect running, nor have been setup properly, there definitly not loud unless under load, mpg can be great if you drive very carefully, cold morning starts dont even require the choke. I serpose every setup wont work as well out of the box as others.

Edited 10 March, 201115 yr by mattpolo5491

Yeah I find Bike carbs ok on a daily too. I can pootle round town and its quiet as anything. Its only when I give it the beans it makes a noise :) And what a noise! :)

forget angular displacement and the mumbo jumbo most people wont understand that

try this

Smaller wheels=quicker acceleration but speedo over reads and top speed is reduced, 10 inch wheels will never fit a polo with out spending ££££ modifying try some lower profile tyres on your 13s but dont expect to be blown away.

bigger wheels= higher top speed but acceleration is compromised speedo can under read( which is illegal) so before you look for a set of second hand 30 inch rims remember your car isnt powerful enough to turn the wheels.

in summary leave the engine alone in your 1l (maybe fit k&n panel filter for improved sound) but tighten up your chassis and suspension and have fun in a car that handles relatively well.

my experience, Level one Motor Mechanics (day release from school, i was a retard) level two motorsport engineering, level three motorport engineering and currently studying a degree in, you guessed it motorsport engineering. with IEng status

and just to throw in some ammo in for you to insult me, my uni project is an electric turbo. all 107,000 rpm of scrapyard and ebay goodness.

Plank...

P.S. don't hate on nitrous :)

I love the way people talk about bike carbs on here and dont know wtf they're on about.

1) My petrol 1.6 16v AFH on bike carbs was more economical,cost less in fuel,drank less fuel,on my near 50 mile a day commute to work and back than the mrs '09 pug 207 1.6 diesel.

Its currently off the road,but is about to go back on,even more efficient - with vvt and a catalyst.

3) they sound hardcore naked particularly so on the 1.6 8v AEE,but they lovely with an air box. And far quieter on the 16v engines. Either way,you'll never tire. Loud exhausts are far more of an issue on comfort.

4) you do not put more fuel in without putting more air in. Any engine. Ever. Neither do bike carbs - just the cylinders get a consistent mixture at all times,giving efficiency.

5) the fueling is governed by engine speed,not pedal travel,so the carb doesn't allow a rich mixture with a heavier foot.

6) they dont go out of sync/balance easily,unlike twin 40s. The throttles are directly screwed together,there is still only one cable,one pulley.

7) obviously they are not as good as a turbo for power,but they are more efficient,and allow for a far more free-revving engine which reflects the nature of the n/a engine.

There is one big problem with bike carbs though - many people dont set them up properly,and rarely run the correct carbs for the engine - hence ill running resulting in an unfair reputation.

They've proven to be perfect for my daily driver,both when i worked in the same town,and now i have to travel. Summer or winter. All weather.

MPi has never looked after me so well and I've had more MPi cars than i can count,having traded cars.

LOL at the educational Willy waving contest

electric turbo

Not strictly a turbo but a supercharger. Here's the one I've worked on.

They don't even use bike carbs on bikes now, a properly set up injection system will out do carbs any day in economy and BHP

But I can see how you would get gains over the STD injection but I can't see how that would improve fuel economy

Edited 10 March, 201115 yr by Gazjen

I love the way people talk about bike carbs on here and dont know wtf they're on about.

1) My petrol 1.6 16v AFH on bike carbs was more economical,cost less in fuel,drank less fuel,on my near 50 mile a day commute to work and back than the mrs '09 pug 207 1.6 diesel.

Its currently off the road,but is about to go back on,even more efficient - with vvt and a catalyst.

3) they sound hardcore naked particularly so on the 1.6 8v AEE,but they lovely with an air box. And far quieter on the 16v engines. Either way,you'll never tire. Loud exhausts are far more of an issue on comfort.

4) you do not put more fuel in without putting more air in. Any engine. Ever. Neither do bike carbs - just the cylinders get a consistent mixture at all times,giving efficiency.

5) the fueling is governed by engine speed,not pedal travel,so the carb doesn't allow a rich mixture with a heavier foot.

6) they dont go out of sync/balance easily,unlike twin 40s. The throttles are directly screwed together,there is still only one cable,one pulley.

7) obviously they are not as good as a turbo for power,but they are more efficient,and allow for a far more free-revving engine which reflects the nature of the n/a engine.

There is one big problem with bike carbs though - many people dont set them up properly,and rarely run the correct carbs for the engine - hence ill running resulting in an unfair reputation.

They've proven to be perfect for my daily driver,both when i worked in the same town,and now i have to travel. Summer or winter. All weather.

MPi has never looked after me so well and I've had more MPi cars than i can count,having traded cars.

Agree, i can get 40-50MPG all day long, as said, properly setup and balanced they will start first time even in very cold weather and mine is a heavily used daily driver.

Edited 10 March, 201115 yr by Cymro

electric turbo

Not strictly a turbo but a supercharger. Here's the one I've worked on.

mine looks to work on a similar principle just ripped apart an old garrett bought a high speed brushless motor off ebay 2kw and 107000 rpm *cough* DYSON!*cough* and currently working on the electronics to ensure that the boost is variable.

only problem is to integrate it with the cars systems, so i took the easy option of bench testing it for the project instead of installing it on a car