Can't see why it would be expensive? The only thing I couldn't make at work would be the shaft, but I have plenty of mates who are also in the engineering trade so it might be some thing that one of them could knock up for me at a reasonable price. I probably am going with the conventional placement, but it is something that I am looking into further due to all the benefits that come with mounting it at the other end

Eatons create a fair amount of heat anyway so mounting one a few mm above a stainless four branch isn't ideal, even with a heat shield between them

Saw this method on a eaton charged mk2 golf vr6, the guy had coupled a shaft off the back of the alternator that ran behind the exhaust manifold then to the eaton mounted to the gearbox.

It's a really good way of doing things when you dont have enough room on the left hand side.

He had also made the pulley on the alternator about three times as big to give the extra torque for the charger.

Guess you'll have to work out a pulley size for the amount of boost you want.

Is this the method you are using? (coming off the back of the alternator) or are you making a bracket holding another pulley on the left then coming off that?

Well, when i say expensive i don't mean thousands, but from the gains of doing it that way,

you could put the money into something more rewarding, just my 2p so don't take it as gospel,

Heat radiation from the 4-branch can be minimised, even below standard casting items with the use of heat wrap and a sheild, then as long as there's some sort of duct going to the charger, it should be perfectly fine.

If you do go down the shaft route, or need anything CNC machined then give us a shout, its right up my street as you know, and i'd only charge you for the material

Replacement wing preped

Started preping the new boot lid earlier and probably finish it off tomorrow if i can be arsed

Good to see you getting stuck in with everything,

Wish mine was a black mk2 so bad, seeing your other one, i think i might have to spray mine black instead of red, there's not many black 2F's about,

Think it will be ready for next years action?

The plan with this one is too have it on the road early next year so I can enjoy it through the summer and hit as many shows as possible. Fed up with missing shows due to pissing about building a car rather than enjoying it

Other than body work there's really not a lot I can do atm tho. Waiting on a 6n engine mount, once I have that I can start looking at mounting the charger. I'm waiting for the surface grinder at work to get a chance to skim my rods, once that's done I can start looking at building the engine. I can't really start wiring in the omex until I have checked that it works but can't do that until I get a lead for it (think kiz is coming to the rescue there tho once again ).

It's gonna be one of them where there's not a lot I can do for a bit and then BAM, its all go

Good luck dude, the other black car of yours is progressing well also. Busy busy! Looking forward to hearing the 16v when its whining :-)

The plan with this one is too have it on the road early next year so I can enjoy it through the summer and hit as many shows as possible. Fed up with missing shows due to pissing about building a car rather than enjoying it

Other than body work there's really not a lot I can do atm tho. Waiting on a 6n engine mount, once I have that I can start looking at mounting the charger. I'm waiting for the surface grinder at work to get a chance to skim my rods, once that's done I can start looking at building the engine. I can't really start wiring in the omex until I have checked that it works but can't do that until I get a lead for it (think kiz is coming to the rescue there tho once again ).

It's gonna be one of them where there's not a lot I can do for a bit and then BAM, its all go

I'd like to have mine done quite soon too, but there's no way i'm gonna be able to insure it, so it will more than likely get towed to the main shows etc

Your lucky that with your age insurers will actually touch you!

So are you going to be using that AEM wideband/boost gauge then? with the "failsafe", i was thinking of using it to cut the igntion if it goes too lean etc.

Which mount do you need guy?

cheers max

max it all comes down to cash, if i can afford it when the time comes i will have one. not so much for the fail safe but more because i need both a boost and wide band gauge so it would work out cheap to get this than get matching AFR and boost gauges. i can put this in the drivers side air vent where my current oil pressure gauge is and then have 3 cheap matching gauges where the stereo would be (oil pressure, temp and maybe volts).

si the mount is the drivers side one, both the rubber mount and the bit that bridges that and the engine. should have one on its way to me

cheers max

si the mount is the drivers side one, both the rubber mount and the bit that bridges that and the engine. should have one on its way to me

FUCK! Sorry bro got distracted by a female and alcohol. 1st Class tommorow PROMISE!

Matt just slip a photo of said female in a compromising position in with the mount and I will forgive you x

Don't sweat it mate, we've all been there

Matt just slip a photo of said female in a compromising position in with the mount and I will forgive you x

Don't sweat it mate, we've all been there

Compromising position? i have got a couple but ill have to cut me out of it

:) xoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxoxox

So are you going to be using that AEM wideband/boost gauge then? with the "failsafe", i was thinking of using it to cut the igntion if it goes too lean etc.

Cut fuel, not ignition if you want it as a proper fail-safe.

Aye i was thinking the same guy, the failsafe is pretty much a gimic,

It would save a bit of money than buying them seperately,

Andy, why's it best to do that? Trying to think of a way to cut the carbs from metering fuel, its not like i can cut the feed to the injectors etc

con rods getting worked on

Grinding guy? :)

Yup :-)

thats ballshittttttttt nah looks good you going 20mm for small end and 22mm for big end thicknesses yeah its getting going I'm just sorting my wiring atm working out all the engine management

Yeah leaving a bit more meat on the bottom, the extra mill either should leave a lot of the chunky bits untouched. Also trying to look further into those diesel big end bearings I mentioned to you but its proving difficult to find out the full dimensions of them

just go in gsf and order them in buy them and take a look without opening the wrapping on them if they are good keep them if not take them back :)

and my turbo mani is now fully done will upload pics when i take some probs thursday night soo happy with it just need to fully refurb the K03 I've got now and get the exhaust housing welded and I'm having so much trouble sorting this g40 wiring I'm trying to match the plugs on the loom to the right sensors and I've got Ben trying to help me too lol

if you ran it in the first place you have said then you could instead of running a shaft behind the exhaust you could possibly run it off the end of the cam where the dizzy is

make an adapter/pulley/spacer so a pulley that runs off the end of the cam that also still runs the dizzy but spacers it further out so the pulley to run the charger would sit inbetween the head and dizzy

if you get my meaning just a possible idea

Being as the cam turns at half crank speed, probably not the best idea. The size of the drive pulley would be huge!

Andy, why's it best to do that? Trying to think of a way to cut the carbs from metering fuel, its not like i can cut the feed to the injectors etc

With no combustion going on (due to no fuel) then you're not going to make anything any hotter. Whereas if you cut ignition, there's still fuel there - and if it's been running lean and getting nice and hot there's a risk of pre-ignition, so even though you've cut the spark you could still get combustion occurring.

Andy, why's it best to do that? Trying to think of a way to cut the carbs from metering fuel, its not like i can cut the feed to the injectors etc

With no combustion going on (due to no fuel) then you're not going to make anything any hotter. Whereas if you cut ignition, there's still fuel there - and if it's been running lean and getting nice and hot there's a risk of pre-ignition, so even though you've cut the spark you could still get combustion occurring.

I understand, will be very hard to accomplish with a set of carburetors though, maybe even impossible seeing as they work on air-flow/pressure.

Would cutting the ignition be better than nothing though?

Also, guy is that a magnetic table? What are you actually grinding on them? And what for?

Yeah it is max. The G60 rods are wider than the avy rods (25mm/20mm) so need surface grinding to fit. The big end on the avy rod is still 20mm but they are guided by the small end and the crank looks like it should take a 22mm wide big end (measurements supplied by Pete ) so I'm leaving an extra mm either side of the big end to try and leave as much strength in them as possible

In short, these rods are about as far from a straight for as they could be while still being able to be modified to fit

Edited 21 August, 201214 yr by Mclovin